Pull Nails: Difference between revisions

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Created page with "Salvaging lumber from renovations or deconstruction (careful demolition) of old buildings can be a low cost source of old growth wood. After it's cleaned up, old growth wood m..."
 
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Salvaging lumber from renovations or deconstruction (careful demolition) of old buildings can be a low cost source of old growth wood. After it's cleaned up, old growth wood more beautiful, stronger than modern wood of the same species. It also has great dimensional stability, having already dried for 100 years or so (depending on where you've salvaged it from).  
Here's a fast and simple procedure for removing rusty nails from old wood without scarring the wood surface. I use it to clean up salvaged old growth timbers and remove nails from antique chairs that I'm repairing.


The downside, often, is that salvaged lumber can be full of nails that must all be pulled before the piece is worked. Nails that have been in place for 100 years are often rusted tightly in place. Nails are often so rusted in place that they break before they move.  
Once you are set up, it takes under a minute to loosen a nail enough to pull it out with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. I've used this procedures for nails as big as 4" to small finishing nails broken off below the surface of the wood.


This is a procedure for removing old nails that are tightly rusted into old wood. Once you are set up, it takes about a minute to loosen a nail so that you can pull it out with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. I've used this procedures for nails as big as 4" to small finishing nails that have been broken off below the surface of the wood.
Using this procedure when I'm taking apart antique chairs for repair, I can easily remove deeply set nails while leaving only a neat, round hole in the wood that I can fill with a dowel plug after regluing the chair.  


== What You Need ==


== What you need ==
* A soldering iron with a flat, round tip. Nothing fancy. You want power with no temperature control. I've used a 40W Radio Shack model that you can thread tips onto. I remove the tip and use the flat, round, threaded metal end. I've also got an old 350W Weller with interchangeable tips that I can modify to any shape.
* A pair of needle nose pliers.
* A curved wood chisel. Useful if you have nails broken off below the wood surface. The blade's curvature radius should match the soldering iron tip.
* A metal detector. I use a stack of powerful permanent magnets on a string.
 
== Procedure For Nails Above the Surface ==
 
# Find the nail. Big ones by eye. Small ones with your metal detector.
# Heat the nail with the soldering gun. Time depends on the size of the nail and the power of the soldering iron. For a small finishing nail, the 40W soldering iron may need 1 minute, the 350W soldering gun, 15 seconds.
# Wait for the nail to cool.
# Pull out the nail with pliers. If you got it hot enough, it will just slide out.
 
== Procedure for Nails Below the Surface ==
 
Same procedure as above, with one addition:
* If your nail is set or broken off below the surface, use the soldering iron to burn a neat, round hole into the wood until the iron touches the nail. Use the curved wood chisel to clear out the charred wood if you have to. 
* Once your soldering iron touches the nail, leave it there long enough to char a circle of wood around the nail deep enough so the pliers can grab the nail (1 mm can work).
* Use the chisel to clean out the char around the nail head before you pull it.

Revision as of 15:40, 3 March 2016

Here's a fast and simple procedure for removing rusty nails from old wood without scarring the wood surface. I use it to clean up salvaged old growth timbers and remove nails from antique chairs that I'm repairing.

Once you are set up, it takes under a minute to loosen a nail enough to pull it out with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. I've used this procedures for nails as big as 4" to small finishing nails broken off below the surface of the wood.

Using this procedure when I'm taking apart antique chairs for repair, I can easily remove deeply set nails while leaving only a neat, round hole in the wood that I can fill with a dowel plug after regluing the chair.

What You Need

  • A soldering iron with a flat, round tip. Nothing fancy. You want power with no temperature control. I've used a 40W Radio Shack model that you can thread tips onto. I remove the tip and use the flat, round, threaded metal end. I've also got an old 350W Weller with interchangeable tips that I can modify to any shape.
  • A pair of needle nose pliers.
  • A curved wood chisel. Useful if you have nails broken off below the wood surface. The blade's curvature radius should match the soldering iron tip.
  • A metal detector. I use a stack of powerful permanent magnets on a string.

Procedure For Nails Above the Surface

  1. Find the nail. Big ones by eye. Small ones with your metal detector.
  2. Heat the nail with the soldering gun. Time depends on the size of the nail and the power of the soldering iron. For a small finishing nail, the 40W soldering iron may need 1 minute, the 350W soldering gun, 15 seconds.
  3. Wait for the nail to cool.
  4. Pull out the nail with pliers. If you got it hot enough, it will just slide out.

Procedure for Nails Below the Surface

Same procedure as above, with one addition:

  • If your nail is set or broken off below the surface, use the soldering iron to burn a neat, round hole into the wood until the iron touches the nail. Use the curved wood chisel to clear out the charred wood if you have to.
  • Once your soldering iron touches the nail, leave it there long enough to char a circle of wood around the nail deep enough so the pliers can grab the nail (1 mm can work).
  • Use the chisel to clean out the char around the nail head before you pull it.
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