LVL1 - User contributions [en]

HVAC

2017-06-10T02:09:00Z

Seanmcpherson:

LVL1 has (2) HVAC systems: 1 for the main room and 1 for the classroom. The HVAC for the main room uses 20x22x1 filters. The HVAC for the classroom uses 16x22x1 filters. Both blow upwards. Replace the filters monthly. Date the filters with that day's date when installing them. If you check the filters and the date is over a month ago, it likely needs to be changed. The images below show filters that are WOEFULLY undermaintained. Do not help break the expensive HVAC units by failing to install the 2 dollar filters. Broken -at- lvl1 dot org will buy more if the space is running low. Email Broken if you use the next to last filter.

Instructions:

To install the filter, turn the unit off using the thermostat in the respective room being cooled. Wait for the fan to turn off, which may take a minute as the HVAC system allows the coil to be shutdown properly. The filter on each unit is located behind a 2" tall metal cover with black slide clips on each end, located beneath the small PVC drain line. Push the black plastic slides towards the middle and the metal cover can be completely removed. Pull the filter out. Date a new filter, and slide it into the unit being sure the airflow arrows point upwards. Tilting it up slightly in the rear will help it go all the way to the rear more easily. If the filter doesn't drop in behind the metal lip of the front panel, it's hanging up on something. DO NOT CRUSH THE FILTER IN PLACE WITH THE COVER. It should have some tension pushing it to the front but it should not crumple. Replace the metal cover by placing the top lip under and behind the metal frame of the unit, and push the 2 black plastic clips outward so they catch behind the metal panel on the sides. The metal cover should fit flush.

[[File:HVACfilter01.jpg]]

[[File:HVACfilter02.jpg]]

[[File:HVACfiltercover.jpg]]

File:HVACfiltercover.jpg

2017-06-10T01:59:13Z

Seanmcpherson: HVAC Filter Cover Installed

HVAC Filter Cover Installed

File:HVACfilter02.jpg

2017-06-10T01:58:22Z

Seanmcpherson: Main Room HVAC Filter 20x22x1

Main Room HVAC Filter 20x22x1

File:HVACfilter01.jpg

2017-06-10T01:57:32Z

Seanmcpherson: Classroom HVAC Filter 16x22x1

Classroom HVAC Filter 16x22x1

HVAC

2017-06-10T01:54:53Z

Seanmcpherson:

LVL1 has (2) HVAC systems: 1 for the main room and 1 for the classroom. The HVAC for the main room uses 20x22x1 filters. The HVAC for the classroom uses 16x22x1 filters. Both blow upwards. Replace the filters monthly. Date the filters with that day's date when installing them.

Instructions:

To install the filter, turn the unit off using the thermostat in the respective room being cooled. Wait for the fan to turn off, which may take a minute as the HVAC system allows the coil to be shutdown properly. The filter on each unit is located behind a 2" tall metal cover with black slide clips on each end, located beneath the small PVC drain line. Push the black plastic slides towards the middle and the metal cover can be completely removed. Pull the filter out. Date a new filter, and slide it into the unit being sure the airflow arrows point upwards. Tilting it up slightly in the rear will help it go all the way to the rear more easily. If the filter doesn't drop in behind the metal lip of the front panel, it's hanging up on something. DO NOT CRUSH THE FILTER IN PLACE WITH THE COVER. It should have some tension pushing it to the front but it should not crumple. Replace the metal cover by placing the top lip under and behind the metal frame of the unit, and push the 2 black plastic clips outward so they catch behind the metal panel on the sides. The metal cover should fit flush.

[[File:HVACfilter01.jpg]]

[[File:HVACfilter02.jpg]]

[[File:HVACfiltercover.jpg]]

HVAC

2017-06-10T01:52:42Z

Seanmcpherson: HVAC and Filter info

LVL1 has (2) HVAC systems: 1 for the main room and 1 for the classroom. The HVAC for the main room uses 20x22x1 filters. The HVAC for the classroom uses 16x22x1 filters. Both blow upwards. Replace the filters monthly. Date the filters with that day's date when installing them.

Instructions:

To install the filter, turn the unit off using the thermostat in the respective room being cooled. Wait for the fan to turn off, which may take a minute as the HVAC system allows the coil to be shutdown properly. The filter on each unit is located behind a 2" tall metal cover with black slide clips on each end, located beneath the small PVC drain line. Push the black plastic slides towards the middle and the metal cover can be completely removed. Pull the filter out. Date a new filter, and slide it into the unit being sure the airflow arrows point upwards. Tilting it up slightly in the rear will help it go all the way to the rear more easily. If the filter doesn't drop in behind the metal lip of the front panel, it's hanging up on something. DO NOT CRUSH THE FILTER IN PLACE WITH THE COVER. It should have some tension pushing it to the front but it should not crumple. Replace the metal cover by placing the top lip under and behind the metal frame of the unit, and push the 2 black plastic clips outward so they catch behind the metal panel on the sides. The metal cover should fit flush.

Space

2017-06-10T01:43:34Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Spaces */

This page is meant to be a directory of space information about LVL1. Add a wiki page link here and follow it to fill out the details. To generate a QR Code image, insert <nowiki>{{Template:Space}}</nowiki> into the first line of your new page. You can also add <nowiki>{{Template:Space_Footer}}</nowiki> at the end of your new page.

== Spaces ==

* [[LVL1]]
* [[Main Room]]
* [[Bathroom]]
* [[Classroom]]
* [[Bunker]] (Wood Shop and Metal Shop)
* [[Boneyard]]
* [[White Board]]
* [[Network]]
* [[Library]]
* [[Trash and Recycling]]
* [[Kitchen Cabinets]]
* [[Store]]
* [[KIPCUG Rack]]
* [[A/V Cabinet]]
* [[HVAC]]

Space

2017-06-10T01:43:19Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Spaces */

Main Page

2015-11-26T23:32:37Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Paper Work */

__NOTOC__
{| cellpadding="5" style="border:1px; background-color:#f9f9f9; solid #B0B0B0; padding:3px; width:100%; margin-bottom:2px;"
!width="49%"|
!width="49%"|
|-valign="top";|
| colspan="2" |
|valign="top"|
|-
|valign="top"|

===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]! To get a general idea of what we do, as well as directions and parking information, visit the [[LVL1]] wiki page.

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings
* [[11/24/2015]]
* [[11/17/2015]]
* [[11/10/2015]]
* [[11/03/2015]]
* [[10/27/2015]]
* [[10/20/2015]]
* [[10/13/2015]]
* [[10/06/2015]]
* [[09/29/2015]]
* [[09/22/2015]]
* [[09/15/2015]]
* [[09/08/2015]]
* [[09/01/2015]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[(Midwest Regional) Stupid Shit No-One Needs and Terrible Ideas Hackathon]]
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[Mend It Monday]]
* [[Tiny House]]
* [[KYOSS]]
* [http://muddytech.org MuddyTech]
* [[Learn-a-thing]]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* Study Groups
** [[Game Dev]]
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Truly Mad Scientist's LVL1 Splinter Group]]
* [[Screaming Bread]]
* [[Mozilla Louisville]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
** [[Rabbit Laser]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[Media:LVL1_MembershipForm_2015NOV24.pdf|New Member Signup/Info Form]]

Main Page

2015-11-26T23:32:24Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Paper Work */

__NOTOC__
{| cellpadding="5" style="border:1px; background-color:#f9f9f9; solid #B0B0B0; padding:3px; width:100%; margin-bottom:2px;"
!width="49%"|
!width="49%"|
|-valign="top";|
| colspan="2" |
|valign="top"|
|-
|valign="top"|

===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]! To get a general idea of what we do, as well as directions and parking information, visit the [[LVL1]] wiki page.

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings
* [[11/24/2015]]
* [[11/17/2015]]
* [[11/10/2015]]
* [[11/03/2015]]
* [[10/27/2015]]
* [[10/20/2015]]
* [[10/13/2015]]
* [[10/06/2015]]
* [[09/29/2015]]
* [[09/22/2015]]
* [[09/15/2015]]
* [[09/08/2015]]
* [[09/01/2015]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[(Midwest Regional) Stupid Shit No-One Needs and Terrible Ideas Hackathon]]
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[Mend It Monday]]
* [[Tiny House]]
* [[KYOSS]]
* [http://muddytech.org MuddyTech]
* [[Learn-a-thing]]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* Study Groups
** [[Game Dev]]
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Truly Mad Scientist's LVL1 Splinter Group]]
* [[Screaming Bread]]
* [[Mozilla Louisville]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
** [[Rabbit Laser]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[File:LVL1_MembershipForm_2015NOV24.pdf|New Member Signup/Info Form]]

Main Page

2015-11-26T23:31:48Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Paper Work */

__NOTOC__
{| cellpadding="5" style="border:1px; background-color:#f9f9f9; solid #B0B0B0; padding:3px; width:100%; margin-bottom:2px;"
!width="49%"|
!width="49%"|
|-valign="top";|
| colspan="2" |
|valign="top"|
|-
|valign="top"|

===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]! To get a general idea of what we do, as well as directions and parking information, visit the [[LVL1]] wiki page.

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings
* [[11/24/2015]]
* [[11/17/2015]]
* [[11/10/2015]]
* [[11/03/2015]]
* [[10/27/2015]]
* [[10/20/2015]]
* [[10/13/2015]]
* [[10/06/2015]]
* [[09/29/2015]]
* [[09/22/2015]]
* [[09/15/2015]]
* [[09/08/2015]]
* [[09/01/2015]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[(Midwest Regional) Stupid Shit No-One Needs and Terrible Ideas Hackathon]]
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[Mend It Monday]]
* [[Tiny House]]
* [[KYOSS]]
* [http://muddytech.org MuddyTech]
* [[Learn-a-thing]]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* Study Groups
** [[Game Dev]]
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Truly Mad Scientist's LVL1 Splinter Group]]
* [[Screaming Bread]]
* [[Mozilla Louisville]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
** [[Rabbit Laser]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[LVL1_MembershipForm_2015NOV24.pdf|New Member Signup/Info Form]]

Main Page

2015-11-26T23:30:42Z

Seanmcpherson: /* New to LVL1.org? */

__NOTOC__
{| cellpadding="5" style="border:1px; background-color:#f9f9f9; solid #B0B0B0; padding:3px; width:100%; margin-bottom:2px;"
!width="49%"|
!width="49%"|
|-valign="top";|
| colspan="2" |
|valign="top"|
|-
|valign="top"|

===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]! To get a general idea of what we do, as well as directions and parking information, visit the [[LVL1]] wiki page.

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings
* [[11/24/2015]]
* [[11/17/2015]]
* [[11/10/2015]]
* [[11/03/2015]]
* [[10/27/2015]]
* [[10/20/2015]]
* [[10/13/2015]]
* [[10/06/2015]]
* [[09/29/2015]]
* [[09/22/2015]]
* [[09/15/2015]]
* [[09/08/2015]]
* [[09/01/2015]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[(Midwest Regional) Stupid Shit No-One Needs and Terrible Ideas Hackathon]]
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[Mend It Monday]]
* [[Tiny House]]
* [[KYOSS]]
* [http://muddytech.org MuddyTech]
* [[Learn-a-thing]]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* Study Groups
** [[Game Dev]]
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Truly Mad Scientist's LVL1 Splinter Group]]
* [[Screaming Bread]]
* [[Mozilla Louisville]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
** [[Rabbit Laser]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[Media:Member_info_form.pdf|Member Info Form]]

Main Page

2015-11-26T23:29:51Z

Seanmcpherson: /* New to LVL1.org? */

__NOTOC__
{| cellpadding="5" style="border:1px; background-color:#f9f9f9; solid #B0B0B0; padding:3px; width:100%; margin-bottom:2px;"
!width="49%"|
!width="49%"|
|-valign="top";|
| colspan="2" |
|valign="top"|
|-
|valign="top"|

===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]! To get a general idea of what we do, as well as directions and parking information, visit the [[LVL1]] wiki page.

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]
* [[File:LVL1_MembershipForm_2015NOV24.pdf]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings
* [[11/24/2015]]
* [[11/17/2015]]
* [[11/10/2015]]
* [[11/03/2015]]
* [[10/27/2015]]
* [[10/20/2015]]
* [[10/13/2015]]
* [[10/06/2015]]
* [[09/29/2015]]
* [[09/22/2015]]
* [[09/15/2015]]
* [[09/08/2015]]
* [[09/01/2015]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[(Midwest Regional) Stupid Shit No-One Needs and Terrible Ideas Hackathon]]
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[Mend It Monday]]
* [[Tiny House]]
* [[KYOSS]]
* [http://muddytech.org MuddyTech]
* [[Learn-a-thing]]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* Study Groups
** [[Game Dev]]
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Truly Mad Scientist's LVL1 Splinter Group]]
* [[Screaming Bread]]
* [[Mozilla Louisville]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
** [[Rabbit Laser]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[Media:Member_info_form.pdf|Member Info Form]]

File:LVL1 MembershipForm 2015NOV24.pdf

2015-11-26T23:27:12Z

Seanmcpherson: Membership Signup Form Complete With Member Rights and Responsibilities

Membership Signup Form Complete With Member Rights and Responsibilities

LVL1

2015-07-27T21:54:09Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Location */

{{Template:Space}}
__NOTOC__
== What is LVL1? ==
LVL1 is a hackerspace in Louisville. A hackerspace is an open community lab and workshop democratically operated by it’s membership. We are friendly community of tinkerers, makers, engineers, educators, scientists, artists, hackers and overall geeks. Anyone who is, aspires to be, or just wants to hang around smart, creative, friendly mad scientist maker/hacker Louisvillians is welcome at LVL1! We've got lots of '''cool tools and equipment'''. We've got a lot of '''really bright and creative people'''. We like to work on (and show off) '''fun and challenging technical projects'''.

== How to get involved with LVL1 ==
Does this sound like an endeavor you want to be a part of? ... Great! Come and join us!

We highly recommend you show up for one of our Tuesday open meeting and open build nights! We briefly go through some membership agenda items. We tell you what's currently going on at the space. We tell you about any challenges the space is facing (technical or otherwise). People are free to talk about projects they are working on or planning. Then once the meeting is adjourned, free-for-all making continues. Everyone is free to work on projects, socialize and geek out. It's a great time to hang out with fellow geeks working on cool DIY tech projects. You'll probably get inspired!

Again, we highly recommend you come to a meeting. There's a common misperception that you should be a member before coming to these meetings. This is not true! At least 50% of our meeting attendees are ''not'' dues paying members and ''all of them are welcome''. Most of those non-members have no intention of becoming dues paying members. That's fine! There's no pressure to become an official member! Official membership has some awesome benefits and we'd love to have you, but it's cool if you just want to hang out and geek out.

You want to ease into LVL1 via the internets first? That's cool too. We've got this wiki, [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lvl1 mailing lists],
[http://http://www.lvl1.org/ blogs], [https://twitter.com/lvl1hackerspace twitters], etc. We especially recommend joining the [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lvl1 Google Group]. That's where most of your discussion happens. Note: this can generate a lot of emails per day. Set up your filters, use the daily digest or use the RSS feed. Put us in your social network: http://www.lvl1.org/contact/

== Location ==
LVL1<br>
1205 E Washington St -- Suite LL100<br>
Louisville, KY 40206

Latitude: 38.2567568,<br>
Longitude: -85.7291955

LVL1 is located at 1205 East Washington Street in The Pointe complex. It is 8,800 square feet of awesomeness including a large meeting room, a classroom, a dedicated bunker for wood and metal shop, and storage.

<font color="red"><big><big>NOTE: Our entrance can be a little tricky to find the first time. The Pointe has three parking lots and our entrance is at the bottom of a ramp in the medium sized one. It is on the other side of the main parking lot and accessible via the steps/ramp near the main entrance to The Pointe itself.</big></big></font>

''Parking''

There are three parking lots at The Pointe that can be used, along with street parking. The main parking lot is easy to spot and borders both E Washington and Cabel St. The medium parking lot, where our entrance is found, has a slightly hidden entrance on Cabel St where the flood wall begins. The third parking lot is accessible via Franklin St. and though small is the most handicapped accessible of the three choices, in terms of getting into our space on the lower level. Please coordinate with a member to access the space this way; we're happy to help accommodate our fellow makers.

Street parking is always available. Keep in mind that on some weekends The Pointe hosts weddings or events and parking may be harder to find.

[[File:LVL1-Map-2015.jpg|601x599px]]

== More Info ==
* [http://www.lvl1.org/ LVL1 Website]
* [[FAQ]]
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ LVL1 Photos]
* [http://twitter.com/LVL1HackerSpace LVL1 Twitter]

== Interest Groups and Projects ==

* [http://whitestarballoon.com/ White Star Balloon] - Record-breaking transatlantic robot balloon attempt
* [http://soundbuilders.lvl1.org/ Louisville Soundbuilders] - Synthesizers and Circuitbending, DIY electronic noisemaking
* [http://kyoss.org/ KYOSS Kentucky Open Source Society]
* [http://www.kipcug.com/ Kentucky-Indiana PC Users Group]
* AND MUCH MORE! These are just the things that have gotten so big they need their own sub-groups.

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Network

2015-07-27T21:41:17Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Misc */

{{Template:Space}}

'''Internet Service graciously provided by http://bluegrass.net'''

[[File:Lvl1-network.png]]

== Misc ==

* We have standards now! Please do not add hodgepodge stuff to our network infrastructure. Please see parts list below.
* There are two subnets, 10.0.0.0/23 for wired clients and 10.0.2.0/23 for wireless. The DHCP pool takes exactly 10.0.1.0/24 for wired and 10.0.3.0/24 for wireless. All devices in these ranges use a /23 subnet mask (255.255.254.0) and a default gateway of 10.0.0.1 (for the 10.0.0.0 and 10.0.1.0 subnets) or 10.0.2.1 (for the 10.0.2.0 and 10.0.3.0 subnets).
* What this means in layman's terms:
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.0 is a static wired client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.1 is a dynamic wired client
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.2 is a static wireless client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.3 is a dynamic wireless client
* The wireless access point comes directly off the pfSense box and does not pass through the switches in the rack. This just eliminates a few points of failure.

*As of 2015JUL27 the following reservations were active:
** 00:27:22:fa:d3:6a 10.0.0.9 ap
** b8:97:5a:34:12:ae 10.0.0.10 files
** 6c:ec:eb:68:ee:9f 10.0.0.11 beaglebone
** b8:97:5a:32:b3:c1 10.0.0.12 octoprint
** b8:27:eb:31:b9:51 10.0.0.13 scanner_pi_jared
** b8:27:eb:26:c5:5b 10.0.0.14 Toms_Vending_Machine
** b8:27:eb:f6:b1:6c 10.0.0.69 woprjr WOPRJR
** 00:18:71:47:81:00 10.0.0.90 switch-master
** 00:24:a8:f8:20:40 10.0.0.91 switch-a
** 00:23:47:2a:54:40 10.0.0.92 switch-b
** 00:23:47:2a:9e:80 10.0.0.93 switch-c

== Internet IPs==
* 216.135.94.120/29 (LVL1 IPs)
* 216.135.94.121 (bluegrass.net gateway)
* 216.135.64.2 (bluegrass.net DNS 1)
* 216.135.64.3 (bluegrass.net DNS 2)

== Parts ==
[[File:LVL1Network.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Network Rack]]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051705&p_id=7089&seq=1&format=2 2 Port Surface Mount Box]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051603&p_id=7260&seq=1&format=2 Patch Panel for rack]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051303&p_id=5622&seq=1&format=2 RJ-45 Jack (used in boxes and patch panel)]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023401&p_id=8109&seq=1&format=2 Cable]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023203&p_id=9837&seq=1&format=2 Patch Cable]

== Router Details ==
* Our router is a small pfSense box on the shelf in the network rack.
* It has five interfaces. We only use:
** WAN - connects to POE injector by TARDIS
** LAN - connects to Master switch
** WIRELESS - connects to wireless access point
** (These are labeled on the back on of the router in permanent marker.)
* DHCP runs here.
== Switch Details ==
* Everything is layer 2, the switches have an IP address only for management purposes.
* The Master Switch is managed via 10.0.0.90, A is .91, B is .92 and C is .93.
* Everything stays on default vlan.
* Master is a 24 port gig switch. All other switches have 24 100MB/s ports and two gig ports.
* For each access switch (A, B, C) the gig ports are trunked to provide redundancy and increase bandwidth.
<pre>conf t
trunk 25 trk1 trunk
trunk 26 trk1 trunk</pre>
* On the master switch three different trunks are created (trk1-trk3) to support the three access switches.
* If none of that made any sense, please just remember this: '''The links between switches have special configurations. Please do not move those cables around.'''
* Spanning tree is enabled (with portfast) and bpdu guard. If you create a loop the ports will get disabled. Telnet into the appropriate switch to re-enable it. All ports are labeled.
** For example: A7 = port 7 on switch A. If it is disabled:
<pre>telnet switch-a.lvl1.lan
conf t
int 7
enable</pre>

==I need a static IP==
* Instead of setting a static IP on your device, create a static lease in our router.
===Why?===
* Your device can still use DHCP but will get the same IP every time
* In some cases this can be much easier than manually setting a static IP
* If you take your device somewhere else it can still use DHCP
* You get a DNS entry
* Visibility. We can track things better if they're in our router. Manually setting IPs makes conflicts more likely.
===How?===
* Log into pfSense as admin at https://10.0.0.1/
** I'm not listing the creds on the wiki, any lvl1 member should be able to figure out the login
* On the top bar click Status, then DHCP Leases
* Scroll to the bottom of the page to pick your new IP
** For wired, you'll pick an IP that starts with 10.0.0 (within 10.0.0.0/24)
** For wireless, pick an IP that starts with 10.0.2 (within 10.0.2.0/24)
** The IPs listed are already taken. Pick something else and remember it or write it down for the next steps.
** For good measure, do a quick ping test to make sure nothing else has taken that.
* Scroll back up to the top of the page and find your device. You can use the MAC address, hostname (not reliable if we have multiple things called "raspberrypi") or your current IP. Newer leases are closer to the top.
* Click the + on the right next to your device.
* Enter the following
** IP Address: the ip address you picked earlier
** Hostname: what you want the hostname to be. This will also update DNS. Please be specific, bonus points for also using your name.
*** Being a good member: aaronv-pi
*** Being a bad member: raspberrypi
** Everything else can be ignored
* Click Save
* Click Apply
* Renew your DHCP lease or, if you're lazy, reboot

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Network

2015-07-27T21:25:02Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Switch Details */

{{Template:Space}}

'''Internet Service graciously provided by http://bluegrass.net'''

[[File:Lvl1-network.png]]

== Misc ==

* We have standards now! Please do not add hodgepodge stuff to our network infrastructure. Please see parts list below.
* There are two subnets, 10.0.0.0/23 for wired clients and 10.0.2.0/23 for wireless. The DHCP pool takes exactly 10.0.1.0/24 for wired and 10.0.3.0/24 for wireless. All devices in these ranges use a /23 subnet mask (255.255.254.0) and a default gateway of 10.0.0.1 (for the 10.0.0.0 and 10.0.1.0 subnets) or 10.0.2.1 (for the 10.0.2.0 and 10.0.3.0 subnets).
* What this means in layman's terms:
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.0 is a static wired client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.1 is a dynamic wired client
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.2 is a static wireless client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.3 is a dynamic wireless client
* The wireless access point comes directly off the pfSense box and does not pass through the switches in the rack. This just eliminates a few points of failure.

== Internet IPs==
* 216.135.94.120/29 (LVL1 IPs)
* 216.135.94.121 (bluegrass.net gateway)
* 216.135.64.2 (bluegrass.net DNS 1)
* 216.135.64.3 (bluegrass.net DNS 2)

== Parts ==
[[File:LVL1Network.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Network Rack]]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051705&p_id=7089&seq=1&format=2 2 Port Surface Mount Box]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051603&p_id=7260&seq=1&format=2 Patch Panel for rack]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051303&p_id=5622&seq=1&format=2 RJ-45 Jack (used in boxes and patch panel)]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023401&p_id=8109&seq=1&format=2 Cable]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023203&p_id=9837&seq=1&format=2 Patch Cable]

== Router Details ==
* Our router is a small pfSense box on the shelf in the network rack.
* It has five interfaces. We only use:
** WAN - connects to POE injector by TARDIS
** LAN - connects to Master switch
** WIRELESS - connects to wireless access point
** (These are labeled on the back on of the router in permanent marker.)
* DHCP runs here.
== Switch Details ==
* Everything is layer 2, the switches have an IP address only for management purposes.
* The Master Switch is managed via 10.0.0.90, A is .91, B is .92 and C is .93.
* Everything stays on default vlan.
* Master is a 24 port gig switch. All other switches have 24 100MB/s ports and two gig ports.
* For each access switch (A, B, C) the gig ports are trunked to provide redundancy and increase bandwidth.
<pre>conf t
trunk 25 trk1 trunk
trunk 26 trk1 trunk</pre>
* On the master switch three different trunks are created (trk1-trk3) to support the three access switches.
* If none of that made any sense, please just remember this: '''The links between switches have special configurations. Please do not move those cables around.'''
* Spanning tree is enabled (with portfast) and bpdu guard. If you create a loop the ports will get disabled. Telnet into the appropriate switch to re-enable it. All ports are labeled.
** For example: A7 = port 7 on switch A. If it is disabled:
<pre>telnet switch-a.lvl1.lan
conf t
int 7
enable</pre>

==I need a static IP==
* Instead of setting a static IP on your device, create a static lease in our router.
===Why?===
* Your device can still use DHCP but will get the same IP every time
* In some cases this can be much easier than manually setting a static IP
* If you take your device somewhere else it can still use DHCP
* You get a DNS entry
* Visibility. We can track things better if they're in our router. Manually setting IPs makes conflicts more likely.
===How?===
* Log into pfSense as admin at https://10.0.0.1/
** I'm not listing the creds on the wiki, any lvl1 member should be able to figure out the login
* On the top bar click Status, then DHCP Leases
* Scroll to the bottom of the page to pick your new IP
** For wired, you'll pick an IP that starts with 10.0.0 (within 10.0.0.0/24)
** For wireless, pick an IP that starts with 10.0.2 (within 10.0.2.0/24)
** The IPs listed are already taken. Pick something else and remember it or write it down for the next steps.
** For good measure, do a quick ping test to make sure nothing else has taken that.
* Scroll back up to the top of the page and find your device. You can use the MAC address, hostname (not reliable if we have multiple things called "raspberrypi") or your current IP. Newer leases are closer to the top.
* Click the + on the right next to your device.
* Enter the following
** IP Address: the ip address you picked earlier
** Hostname: what you want the hostname to be. This will also update DNS. Please be specific, bonus points for also using your name.
*** Being a good member: aaronv-pi
*** Being a bad member: raspberrypi
** Everything else can be ignored
* Click Save
* Click Apply
* Renew your DHCP lease or, if you're lazy, reboot

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Network

2015-07-27T21:24:00Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Misc */

{{Template:Space}}

'''Internet Service graciously provided by http://bluegrass.net'''

[[File:Lvl1-network.png]]

== Misc ==

* We have standards now! Please do not add hodgepodge stuff to our network infrastructure. Please see parts list below.
* There are two subnets, 10.0.0.0/23 for wired clients and 10.0.2.0/23 for wireless. The DHCP pool takes exactly 10.0.1.0/24 for wired and 10.0.3.0/24 for wireless. All devices in these ranges use a /23 subnet mask (255.255.254.0) and a default gateway of 10.0.0.1 (for the 10.0.0.0 and 10.0.1.0 subnets) or 10.0.2.1 (for the 10.0.2.0 and 10.0.3.0 subnets).
* What this means in layman's terms:
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.0 is a static wired client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.1 is a dynamic wired client
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.2 is a static wireless client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.3 is a dynamic wireless client
* The wireless access point comes directly off the pfSense box and does not pass through the switches in the rack. This just eliminates a few points of failure.

== Internet IPs==
* 216.135.94.120/29 (LVL1 IPs)
* 216.135.94.121 (bluegrass.net gateway)
* 216.135.64.2 (bluegrass.net DNS 1)
* 216.135.64.3 (bluegrass.net DNS 2)

== Parts ==
[[File:LVL1Network.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Network Rack]]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051705&p_id=7089&seq=1&format=2 2 Port Surface Mount Box]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051603&p_id=7260&seq=1&format=2 Patch Panel for rack]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051303&p_id=5622&seq=1&format=2 RJ-45 Jack (used in boxes and patch panel)]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023401&p_id=8109&seq=1&format=2 Cable]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023203&p_id=9837&seq=1&format=2 Patch Cable]

== Router Details ==
* Our router is a small pfSense box on the shelf in the network rack.
* It has five interfaces. We only use:
** WAN - connects to POE injector by TARDIS
** LAN - connects to Master switch
** WIRELESS - connects to wireless access point
** (These are labeled on the back on of the router in permanent marker.)
* DHCP runs here.
== Switch Details ==
* Everything is layer 2, the switches have an IP address only for management purposes.
* Everything stays on default vlan.
* Master is a 24 port gig switch. All other switches have 24 100MB/s ports and two gig ports.
* For each access switch (A, B, C) the gig ports are trunked to provide redundancy and increase bandwidth.
<pre>conf t
trunk 25 trk1 trunk
trunk 26 trk1 trunk</pre>
* On the master switch three different trunks are created (trk1-trk3) to support the three access switches.
* If none of that made any sense, please just remember this: '''The links between switches have special configurations. Please do not move those cables around.'''
* Spanning tree is enabled (with portfast) and bpdu guard. If you create a loop the ports will get disabled. Telnet into the appropriate switch to re-enable it. All ports are labeled.
** For example: A7 = port 7 on switch A. If it is disabled:
<pre>telnet switch-a.lvl1.lan
conf t
int 7
enable</pre>

==I need a static IP==
* Instead of setting a static IP on your device, create a static lease in our router.
===Why?===
* Your device can still use DHCP but will get the same IP every time
* In some cases this can be much easier than manually setting a static IP
* If you take your device somewhere else it can still use DHCP
* You get a DNS entry
* Visibility. We can track things better if they're in our router. Manually setting IPs makes conflicts more likely.
===How?===
* Log into pfSense as admin at https://10.0.0.1/
** I'm not listing the creds on the wiki, any lvl1 member should be able to figure out the login
* On the top bar click Status, then DHCP Leases
* Scroll to the bottom of the page to pick your new IP
** For wired, you'll pick an IP that starts with 10.0.0 (within 10.0.0.0/24)
** For wireless, pick an IP that starts with 10.0.2 (within 10.0.2.0/24)
** The IPs listed are already taken. Pick something else and remember it or write it down for the next steps.
** For good measure, do a quick ping test to make sure nothing else has taken that.
* Scroll back up to the top of the page and find your device. You can use the MAC address, hostname (not reliable if we have multiple things called "raspberrypi") or your current IP. Newer leases are closer to the top.
* Click the + on the right next to your device.
* Enter the following
** IP Address: the ip address you picked earlier
** Hostname: what you want the hostname to be. This will also update DNS. Please be specific, bonus points for also using your name.
*** Being a good member: aaronv-pi
*** Being a bad member: raspberrypi
** Everything else can be ignored
* Click Save
* Click Apply
* Renew your DHCP lease or, if you're lazy, reboot

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Network

2015-07-27T21:20:31Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Misc */

{{Template:Space}}

'''Internet Service graciously provided by http://bluegrass.net'''

[[File:Lvl1-network.png]]

== Misc ==

* We have standards now! Please do not add hodgepodge stuff to our network infrastructure. Please see parts list below.
* There are two subnets, 10.0.0.0/23 for wired clients and 10.0.2.0/23 for wireless. The DHCP pool takes exactly 10.0.1.0/24 for wired and 10.0.3.0/24 for wireless. All devices in these ranges use a /23 subnet mask (255.255.254.0) and a default gateway of 10.0.0.1.
* What this means in layman's terms:
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.0 is a static wired client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.1 is a dynamic wired client
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.2 is a static wireless client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.3 is a dynamic wireless client
* The wireless access point comes directly off the pfSense box and does not pass through the switches in the rack. This just eliminates a few points of failure.

== Internet IPs==
* 216.135.94.120/29 (LVL1 IPs)
* 216.135.94.121 (bluegrass.net gateway)
* 216.135.64.2 (bluegrass.net DNS 1)
* 216.135.64.3 (bluegrass.net DNS 2)

== Parts ==
[[File:LVL1Network.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Network Rack]]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051705&p_id=7089&seq=1&format=2 2 Port Surface Mount Box]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051603&p_id=7260&seq=1&format=2 Patch Panel for rack]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051303&p_id=5622&seq=1&format=2 RJ-45 Jack (used in boxes and patch panel)]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023401&p_id=8109&seq=1&format=2 Cable]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023203&p_id=9837&seq=1&format=2 Patch Cable]

== Router Details ==
* Our router is a small pfSense box on the shelf in the network rack.
* It has five interfaces. We only use:
** WAN - connects to POE injector by TARDIS
** LAN - connects to Master switch
** WIRELESS - connects to wireless access point
** (These are labeled on the back on of the router in permanent marker.)
* DHCP runs here.
== Switch Details ==
* Everything is layer 2, the switches have an IP address only for management purposes.
* Everything stays on default vlan.
* Master is a 24 port gig switch. All other switches have 24 100MB/s ports and two gig ports.
* For each access switch (A, B, C) the gig ports are trunked to provide redundancy and increase bandwidth.
<pre>conf t
trunk 25 trk1 trunk
trunk 26 trk1 trunk</pre>
* On the master switch three different trunks are created (trk1-trk3) to support the three access switches.
* If none of that made any sense, please just remember this: '''The links between switches have special configurations. Please do not move those cables around.'''
* Spanning tree is enabled (with portfast) and bpdu guard. If you create a loop the ports will get disabled. Telnet into the appropriate switch to re-enable it. All ports are labeled.
** For example: A7 = port 7 on switch A. If it is disabled:
<pre>telnet switch-a.lvl1.lan
conf t
int 7
enable</pre>

==I need a static IP==
* Instead of setting a static IP on your device, create a static lease in our router.
===Why?===
* Your device can still use DHCP but will get the same IP every time
* In some cases this can be much easier than manually setting a static IP
* If you take your device somewhere else it can still use DHCP
* You get a DNS entry
* Visibility. We can track things better if they're in our router. Manually setting IPs makes conflicts more likely.
===How?===
* Log into pfSense as admin at https://10.0.0.1/
** I'm not listing the creds on the wiki, any lvl1 member should be able to figure out the login
* On the top bar click Status, then DHCP Leases
* Scroll to the bottom of the page to pick your new IP
** For wired, you'll pick an IP that starts with 10.0.0 (within 10.0.0.0/24)
** For wireless, pick an IP that starts with 10.0.2 (within 10.0.2.0/24)
** The IPs listed are already taken. Pick something else and remember it or write it down for the next steps.
** For good measure, do a quick ping test to make sure nothing else has taken that.
* Scroll back up to the top of the page and find your device. You can use the MAC address, hostname (not reliable if we have multiple things called "raspberrypi") or your current IP. Newer leases are closer to the top.
* Click the + on the right next to your device.
* Enter the following
** IP Address: the ip address you picked earlier
** Hostname: what you want the hostname to be. This will also update DNS. Please be specific, bonus points for also using your name.
*** Being a good member: aaronv-pi
*** Being a bad member: raspberrypi
** Everything else can be ignored
* Click Save
* Click Apply
* Renew your DHCP lease or, if you're lazy, reboot

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Network

2015-07-27T21:20:03Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Misc */

{{Template:Space}}

'''Internet Service graciously provided by http://bluegrass.net'''

[[File:Lvl1-network.png]]

== Misc ==

* We have standards now! Please do not add hodgepodge stuff to our network infrastructure. Please see parts list below.
* There are two subnets, 10.0.0.0/23 for wired clients and 10.0.2.0/23 for wireless. The DHCP pool takes exactly 10.0.1.0/24 for wired and 10.0.3.0/24 for wireless. All devices in these ranges use a /23 subnet mask (255.255.254.0) and a default gateway of 10.0.0.1.
* What this means in laymans terms:
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.0 is a static wired client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.1 is a dynamic wired cilent
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.2 is a static wireless client (either hard coded or assigned via DHCP reservations)
** Any IP that starts with 10.0.3 is a dynamic wireless client
* The wireless access point comes directly off the pfSense box and does not pass through the switches in the rack. This just eliminates a few points of failure.

== Internet IPs==
* 216.135.94.120/29 (LVL1 IPs)
* 216.135.94.121 (bluegrass.net gateway)
* 216.135.64.2 (bluegrass.net DNS 1)
* 216.135.64.3 (bluegrass.net DNS 2)

== Parts ==
[[File:LVL1Network.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Network Rack]]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051705&p_id=7089&seq=1&format=2 2 Port Surface Mount Box]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051603&p_id=7260&seq=1&format=2 Patch Panel for rack]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051303&p_id=5622&seq=1&format=2 RJ-45 Jack (used in boxes and patch panel)]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023401&p_id=8109&seq=1&format=2 Cable]
* [http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023203&p_id=9837&seq=1&format=2 Patch Cable]

== Router Details ==
* Our router is a small pfSense box on the shelf in the network rack.
* It has five interfaces. We only use:
** WAN - connects to POE injector by TARDIS
** LAN - connects to Master switch
** WIRELESS - connects to wireless access point
** (These are labeled on the back on of the router in permanent marker.)
* DHCP runs here.
== Switch Details ==
* Everything is layer 2, the switches have an IP address only for management purposes.
* Everything stays on default vlan.
* Master is a 24 port gig switch. All other switches have 24 100MB/s ports and two gig ports.
* For each access switch (A, B, C) the gig ports are trunked to provide redundancy and increase bandwidth.
<pre>conf t
trunk 25 trk1 trunk
trunk 26 trk1 trunk</pre>
* On the master switch three different trunks are created (trk1-trk3) to support the three access switches.
* If none of that made any sense, please just remember this: '''The links between switches have special configurations. Please do not move those cables around.'''
* Spanning tree is enabled (with portfast) and bpdu guard. If you create a loop the ports will get disabled. Telnet into the appropriate switch to re-enable it. All ports are labeled.
** For example: A7 = port 7 on switch A. If it is disabled:
<pre>telnet switch-a.lvl1.lan
conf t
int 7
enable</pre>

==I need a static IP==
* Instead of setting a static IP on your device, create a static lease in our router.
===Why?===
* Your device can still use DHCP but will get the same IP every time
* In some cases this can be much easier than manually setting a static IP
* If you take your device somewhere else it can still use DHCP
* You get a DNS entry
* Visibility. We can track things better if they're in our router. Manually setting IPs makes conflicts more likely.
===How?===
* Log into pfSense as admin at https://10.0.0.1/
** I'm not listing the creds on the wiki, any lvl1 member should be able to figure out the login
* On the top bar click Status, then DHCP Leases
* Scroll to the bottom of the page to pick your new IP
** For wired, you'll pick an IP that starts with 10.0.0 (within 10.0.0.0/24)
** For wireless, pick an IP that starts with 10.0.2 (within 10.0.2.0/24)
** The IPs listed are already taken. Pick something else and remember it or write it down for the next steps.
** For good measure, do a quick ping test to make sure nothing else has taken that.
* Scroll back up to the top of the page and find your device. You can use the MAC address, hostname (not reliable if we have multiple things called "raspberrypi") or your current IP. Newer leases are closer to the top.
* Click the + on the right next to your device.
* Enter the following
** IP Address: the ip address you picked earlier
** Hostname: what you want the hostname to be. This will also update DNS. Please be specific, bonus points for also using your name.
*** Being a good member: aaronv-pi
*** Being a bad member: raspberrypi
** Everything else can be ignored
* Click Save
* Click Apply
* Renew your DHCP lease or, if you're lazy, reboot

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Main Page

2015-03-21T23:44:57Z

Seanmcpherson: /* New to LVL1.org? */

__NOTOC__
{| cellpadding="5" style="border:1px; background-color:#f9f9f9; solid #B0B0B0; padding:3px; width:100%; margin-bottom:2px;"
!width="49%"|
!width="49%"|
|-valign="top";|
| colspan="2" |
|valign="top"|
|-
|valign="top"|

===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]! To get a general idea of what we do, as well as directions and parking information, visit the [[LVL1]] wiki page.

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings
* [[03/17/2015]]
* [[03/10/2015]]
* [[03/03/2015]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[KYOSS]]
* [http://muddytech.org MuddyTech]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* Study Groups
** [[Game Dev]]
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Mozilla Louisville]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
** [[Rabbit Laser]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[Media:Member_info_form.pdf|Member Info Form]]

Main Room

2015-03-21T23:37:45Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Features */

== Location ==

The Main Room is the general work and community activity space for LVL1.

== Features ==

There are couches, work benches, and various equipment that doesn't require more specific environments (such as the [[Bunker]] for welding or the woodshop). This includes soldering stations, the laser cutters, sewing machines, and the vinyl cutter. There is a [[Smart Board]] at the front of the room along with a second projector, both of which are slaved to a small Acer mini-PC on top of the office supplies cabinet.

== Art ==

Members have provided art for the main room - all of it is to be considered on loan only. DO NOT HACK THE ART!

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Main Room

2015-03-21T23:37:01Z

Seanmcpherson: Created page with "== Location == The Main Room is the general work and community activity space for LVL1. == Features == There are couches, work benches, and various equipment that doesn't ..."

== Location ==

The Main Room is the general work and community activity space for LVL1.

== Features ==

There are couches, work benches, and various equipment that doesn't require more specific environments (such as the [[Bunker]] for welding or the woodshop). There is a [[Smart Board]] at the front of the room along with a second projector, both of which are slaved to a small Acer mini-PC on top of the office supplies cabinet.

== Art ==

Members have provided art for the main room - all of it is to be considered on loan only. DO NOT HACK THE ART!

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Classroom

2015-03-21T23:33:52Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Location */

== Location ==

The classroom is adjacent to the [[Main Room]] and is accessible through the single door next to the Rabbit Laser Cutter.

== Features ==

There are sufficient table workspaces for approximately 20-30 people to work, depending on their projects. There is an instructor/lecturer's desk with a PC in one corner. There is a white board on one wall. The library is located here, as well. Normally, the Hakko soldering stations are stored in the classroom just inside the main door.

== Art ==

Members have provided art for the classroom - all of it is to be considered on loan only. DO NOT HACK THE ART!

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

MakerBot Quickstart

2015-03-21T23:33:07Z

Seanmcpherson:

THIS PAGE IS OUT OF DATE AND NEEDS TO BE UPDATED - FOR NOW, QUICK INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MAKERBOT MAKERWARE SOFTWARE ARE IN [[Clive Badger]]'S PAGE.

This page provides information for using the MakerBot of lvl1, "Veruca Gloop," for the first time. If you need more advanced help, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

== Step 1: Software ==

The MakerBot prints using instructions from your computer. ReplicatorG is the software specifically designed to work with MakerBots. Get ReplicatorG [http://www.replicat.org here].

=== Using ReplicatorG ===

ReplicatorG uses STL (stereolithography) files as models for printing in three dimensions. These STL files come from most major 3D CAD programs. Once you have your STL file, open it in ReplicatorG with File > Open.

Your model should appear somewhere in the cube outlined on the screen. This 10cm cube represents the boundaries of the MakerBot's build area (the MakerBot cannot print anything larger than 10cm cubed). If your model is not sitting on the build platform, choose Move > Put on Platform. You may need to use Rotate to align your model correctly. You can also scale your model by choosing Scale.

For best results, orient your model such that the widest part is on the platform. The MakerBot builds using extruded plastic, so it cannot build over large open spaces. Important: '''Make sure your model does not go below the build platform at any point. The MakerBot will try to build inside the platform by jamming the print head into it, potentially ruining both.''' When you have your model lined up, it's time to generate a toolpath.

==== Gcode and Toolpaths ====

The toolpath is a set of literal instructions that guide the MakerBot in each step of construction. ReplicatorG automatically uses a plugin called Skeinforge to generate toolpaths (in a language called "Gcode" from your model files. While your model is a pure theoretical representation of an object, the Gcode is different for every MakerBot. Every MakerBot has its quirks, and the Gcode should account for these.

Skeinforge uses groups of settings in "profiles" to manage different build styles. Veruca runs best on a custom profile, which you should download from the [[Veruca Gloop]] page. See the instructions on that page to guide you through adding the profile to your computer.

Once you have Veruca's optimized profile, click "Generate Gcode" and select this profile to prepare your model for printing. The toolpath generation step is computationally intensive and may take a while, depending on the size and complexity of your model.

A new tab should appear above the model viewing window, called "Gcode." You can look in this tab at the Gcode that will print your model (it should look like a huge plain text file).
To ensure uninterrupted printing, you should use "Build to File" and save your build to the MakerBot SD card. Remove the SD card from Veruca's motherboard (on the side of her case) and put it into an SD card reader. There should be a reader on the table or in the drawer. Click the Build to File icon in the toolbar and choose a model name on the "LVL1MKBOT" SD card. ReplicatorG should write quickly to the card, and when the write is complete you can replace the SD card into the MakerBot.

Your Gcode now ready! Read on...

== Step 2: Hardware ==

At this point you're ready to interface (read: wrestle) with the MakerBot hardware. This step can be time-consuming and frustrating, but don't be discouraged!

=== Connect the Bot ===

First, turn the MakerBot on. The power supply (on the back, at the bottom) has a black power switch; and the 'Bot itself has another, on the motherboard. When both are on and the whole thing is plugged in, you should see small green LEDs light up on the circuits.

Now you need to connect the MakerBot to ReplicatorG. Plug the black USB cable into your computer and, in ReplicatorG, choose Machine > Driver > "Cupcake CNC w/ heated build platform." If the software says the machine is disconnected, click "Connect machine" (the plugging-in icon in the top right). RepG should say the machine is connected.

If the machine still can't connect, you may need to try another serial port, under Machine > Serial Port > [something]. On a Mac or under Linux, [something] will look like /dev/cu.usbFFKIJ8. Under Windows, it might be COM1, COM2, etc.

When the machine's on, connected, and the software sees it, read on.

=== Prepare the Bot ===

The MakerBot is an open-loop system, which means it has no sensors to inform it about motor positions. It relies on the human users to position its build platform and print head at the origin, the position from which it will print. It also resets to room temperature after use.

==== Set Temperatures ====

Open the Control Panel by clicking the directional-arrows icon. On the left you'll see motor controls for the platform, and on the right various settings for the extruder and temperatures. '''Set the "Extruder Target Temperature" to 220 C. Set the "Platform Target Temperature" to 100 C.''' The heater relays should make audible clicking sounds as the machine heats correctly. To speed warmup and improve print quality, turn on the heat lamp and shine it on the build platform. If something doesn't begin heating properly, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

Once hot, the MakerBot may drool plastic from the extruder. This is normal; use some tweezers to keep plastic from pooling in the build area.

Your model file is in the SD card, and the MakerBot is heated to build temperature. All that remains is to zero the build platform and begin the build.

==== Zero the Platform ====

In the Control Panel, click "Disable" under "Stepper Motor Controls." Center the build platform under the print head by hand ('''be careful not to burn your hands on the top surface of the platform'''), and place a piece of scrap paper on the platform. This will be a clearance guide for the print head. Using the Z-Axis Crank on the top of the Bot, lower the extruder until the tip touches the paper on the build platform.

The head should be close enough to touch the paper, but you should also be able to slide the paper out without ripping it. If the head is too close, it will tear the tape on the platform. If it is too far, the plastic won't stick. The head should provide smooth resistance to removing the paper, but not too much.

Back in RepG, click "Build from SD Card" (The card pointing to a kidney-bean outline) and remove the paper as the extruder raises off the platform. Take a moment to find the "Stop"button in the toolbar, in case something should go wrong. The machine will sit for a moment, adjusting its temperature to that specified by your tooltip file. It will then clear the cold plastic from the extruder by extruding several inches of it, which you will have to remove with tweezers. The machine will then begin the build!

'''Tip:''' Hold the plastic with the tweezers as the extruder descends to the platform, and jerk the plastic away at the last second before the head touches the platform.

=== WATCH the Build ===

This step is very important. Especially the first time you print something, you need to keep an eye on the MakerBot. Perhaps the most crucial and error-prone phase is the first layer (or first few layers) of the print. The extruder head will descend very close to the platform and the first plastic layer should stick solidly and look very flat and squished. If the first layer doesn't stick (a common problem), stop the build and prepare the machine again.

If the print head cuts into the tape over the platform, stop the build and raise the extruder out of the way. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The Bot uses plastic slowly, but it will likely need more before finishing your build. For now, you will have to manually unroll more ABS from the reel on the table, to ensure the machine always has some easily available.

==Step 3: Cleanup ==

If your object printed successfully, hallelujah! If not, don't give up. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The MakerBot leaves filaments of plastic in open spaces where the print head must jump. These are accidental and you can cut them out with a sharp knife. You may want to trim any extraneous buildup form the top of the model, where the head sits when the build is done. You may also want to trim around the base of the model, where the first layers might have played out a bit.

When you are done printing, clean any dangling plastic from the extruder (which should be raised off the platform), and turn the Bot off. Unplug the USB cable. Congrats, you just printed in 3D!

MakerBot Quickstart

2015-03-21T23:32:14Z

Seanmcpherson:

THIS PAGE IS OUT OF DATE AND NEEDS TO BE UPDATED - FOR NOW, QUICK INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MAKERBOT MAKERWARE SOFTWARE ARE IN [[CLIVE BADGER]]'S PAGE.

This page provides information for using the MakerBot of lvl1, "Veruca Gloop," for the first time. If you need more advanced help, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

== Step 1: Software ==

The MakerBot prints using instructions from your computer. ReplicatorG is the software specifically designed to work with MakerBots. Get ReplicatorG [http://www.replicat.org here].

=== Using ReplicatorG ===

ReplicatorG uses STL (stereolithography) files as models for printing in three dimensions. These STL files come from most major 3D CAD programs. Once you have your STL file, open it in ReplicatorG with File > Open.

Your model should appear somewhere in the cube outlined on the screen. This 10cm cube represents the boundaries of the MakerBot's build area (the MakerBot cannot print anything larger than 10cm cubed). If your model is not sitting on the build platform, choose Move > Put on Platform. You may need to use Rotate to align your model correctly. You can also scale your model by choosing Scale.

For best results, orient your model such that the widest part is on the platform. The MakerBot builds using extruded plastic, so it cannot build over large open spaces. Important: '''Make sure your model does not go below the build platform at any point. The MakerBot will try to build inside the platform by jamming the print head into it, potentially ruining both.''' When you have your model lined up, it's time to generate a toolpath.

==== Gcode and Toolpaths ====

The toolpath is a set of literal instructions that guide the MakerBot in each step of construction. ReplicatorG automatically uses a plugin called Skeinforge to generate toolpaths (in a language called "Gcode" from your model files. While your model is a pure theoretical representation of an object, the Gcode is different for every MakerBot. Every MakerBot has its quirks, and the Gcode should account for these.

Skeinforge uses groups of settings in "profiles" to manage different build styles. Veruca runs best on a custom profile, which you should download from the [[Veruca Gloop]] page. See the instructions on that page to guide you through adding the profile to your computer.

Once you have Veruca's optimized profile, click "Generate Gcode" and select this profile to prepare your model for printing. The toolpath generation step is computationally intensive and may take a while, depending on the size and complexity of your model.

A new tab should appear above the model viewing window, called "Gcode." You can look in this tab at the Gcode that will print your model (it should look like a huge plain text file).
To ensure uninterrupted printing, you should use "Build to File" and save your build to the MakerBot SD card. Remove the SD card from Veruca's motherboard (on the side of her case) and put it into an SD card reader. There should be a reader on the table or in the drawer. Click the Build to File icon in the toolbar and choose a model name on the "LVL1MKBOT" SD card. ReplicatorG should write quickly to the card, and when the write is complete you can replace the SD card into the MakerBot.

Your Gcode now ready! Read on...

== Step 2: Hardware ==

At this point you're ready to interface (read: wrestle) with the MakerBot hardware. This step can be time-consuming and frustrating, but don't be discouraged!

=== Connect the Bot ===

First, turn the MakerBot on. The power supply (on the back, at the bottom) has a black power switch; and the 'Bot itself has another, on the motherboard. When both are on and the whole thing is plugged in, you should see small green LEDs light up on the circuits.

Now you need to connect the MakerBot to ReplicatorG. Plug the black USB cable into your computer and, in ReplicatorG, choose Machine > Driver > "Cupcake CNC w/ heated build platform." If the software says the machine is disconnected, click "Connect machine" (the plugging-in icon in the top right). RepG should say the machine is connected.

If the machine still can't connect, you may need to try another serial port, under Machine > Serial Port > [something]. On a Mac or under Linux, [something] will look like /dev/cu.usbFFKIJ8. Under Windows, it might be COM1, COM2, etc.

When the machine's on, connected, and the software sees it, read on.

=== Prepare the Bot ===

The MakerBot is an open-loop system, which means it has no sensors to inform it about motor positions. It relies on the human users to position its build platform and print head at the origin, the position from which it will print. It also resets to room temperature after use.

==== Set Temperatures ====

Open the Control Panel by clicking the directional-arrows icon. On the left you'll see motor controls for the platform, and on the right various settings for the extruder and temperatures. '''Set the "Extruder Target Temperature" to 220 C. Set the "Platform Target Temperature" to 100 C.''' The heater relays should make audible clicking sounds as the machine heats correctly. To speed warmup and improve print quality, turn on the heat lamp and shine it on the build platform. If something doesn't begin heating properly, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

Once hot, the MakerBot may drool plastic from the extruder. This is normal; use some tweezers to keep plastic from pooling in the build area.

Your model file is in the SD card, and the MakerBot is heated to build temperature. All that remains is to zero the build platform and begin the build.

==== Zero the Platform ====

In the Control Panel, click "Disable" under "Stepper Motor Controls." Center the build platform under the print head by hand ('''be careful not to burn your hands on the top surface of the platform'''), and place a piece of scrap paper on the platform. This will be a clearance guide for the print head. Using the Z-Axis Crank on the top of the Bot, lower the extruder until the tip touches the paper on the build platform.

The head should be close enough to touch the paper, but you should also be able to slide the paper out without ripping it. If the head is too close, it will tear the tape on the platform. If it is too far, the plastic won't stick. The head should provide smooth resistance to removing the paper, but not too much.

Back in RepG, click "Build from SD Card" (The card pointing to a kidney-bean outline) and remove the paper as the extruder raises off the platform. Take a moment to find the "Stop"button in the toolbar, in case something should go wrong. The machine will sit for a moment, adjusting its temperature to that specified by your tooltip file. It will then clear the cold plastic from the extruder by extruding several inches of it, which you will have to remove with tweezers. The machine will then begin the build!

'''Tip:''' Hold the plastic with the tweezers as the extruder descends to the platform, and jerk the plastic away at the last second before the head touches the platform.

=== WATCH the Build ===

This step is very important. Especially the first time you print something, you need to keep an eye on the MakerBot. Perhaps the most crucial and error-prone phase is the first layer (or first few layers) of the print. The extruder head will descend very close to the platform and the first plastic layer should stick solidly and look very flat and squished. If the first layer doesn't stick (a common problem), stop the build and prepare the machine again.

If the print head cuts into the tape over the platform, stop the build and raise the extruder out of the way. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The Bot uses plastic slowly, but it will likely need more before finishing your build. For now, you will have to manually unroll more ABS from the reel on the table, to ensure the machine always has some easily available.

==Step 3: Cleanup ==

If your object printed successfully, hallelujah! If not, don't give up. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The MakerBot leaves filaments of plastic in open spaces where the print head must jump. These are accidental and you can cut them out with a sharp knife. You may want to trim any extraneous buildup form the top of the model, where the head sits when the build is done. You may also want to trim around the base of the model, where the first layers might have played out a bit.

When you are done printing, clean any dangling plastic from the extruder (which should be raised off the platform), and turn the Bot off. Unplug the USB cable. Congrats, you just printed in 3D!

Classroom

2015-03-21T23:30:48Z

Seanmcpherson: Created page with "== Location == The classroom is adjacent to the [Main Room] and is accessible through the single door next to the Rabbit Laser Cutter. == Features == There are sufficient t..."

== Location ==

The classroom is adjacent to the [Main Room] and is accessible through the single door next to the Rabbit Laser Cutter.

== Features ==

There are sufficient table workspaces for approximately 20-30 people to work, depending on their projects. There is an instructor/lecturer's desk with a PC in one corner. There is a white board on one wall. The library is located here, as well. Normally, the Hakko soldering stations are stored in the classroom just inside the main door.

== Art ==

Members have provided art for the classroom - all of it is to be considered on loan only. DO NOT HACK THE ART!

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

MakerBot Quickstart

2015-03-21T23:14:06Z

Seanmcpherson:

THIS PAGE IS OUT OF DATE AND NEEDS TO BE UPDATED - FOR NOW, QUICK INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MAKERBOT MAKERWARE SOFTWARE ARE IN [http://wiki.lvl1.org/Clive_Badger CLIVE BADGER'S PAGE].

This page provides information for using the MakerBot of lvl1, "Veruca Gloop," for the first time. If you need more advanced help, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

== Step 1: Software ==

The MakerBot prints using instructions from your computer. ReplicatorG is the software specifically designed to work with MakerBots. Get ReplicatorG [http://www.replicat.org here].

=== Using ReplicatorG ===

ReplicatorG uses STL (stereolithography) files as models for printing in three dimensions. These STL files come from most major 3D CAD programs. Once you have your STL file, open it in ReplicatorG with File > Open.

Your model should appear somewhere in the cube outlined on the screen. This 10cm cube represents the boundaries of the MakerBot's build area (the MakerBot cannot print anything larger than 10cm cubed). If your model is not sitting on the build platform, choose Move > Put on Platform. You may need to use Rotate to align your model correctly. You can also scale your model by choosing Scale.

For best results, orient your model such that the widest part is on the platform. The MakerBot builds using extruded plastic, so it cannot build over large open spaces. Important: '''Make sure your model does not go below the build platform at any point. The MakerBot will try to build inside the platform by jamming the print head into it, potentially ruining both.''' When you have your model lined up, it's time to generate a toolpath.

==== Gcode and Toolpaths ====

The toolpath is a set of literal instructions that guide the MakerBot in each step of construction. ReplicatorG automatically uses a plugin called Skeinforge to generate toolpaths (in a language called "Gcode" from your model files. While your model is a pure theoretical representation of an object, the Gcode is different for every MakerBot. Every MakerBot has its quirks, and the Gcode should account for these.

Skeinforge uses groups of settings in "profiles" to manage different build styles. Veruca runs best on a custom profile, which you should download from the [[Veruca Gloop]] page. See the instructions on that page to guide you through adding the profile to your computer.

Once you have Veruca's optimized profile, click "Generate Gcode" and select this profile to prepare your model for printing. The toolpath generation step is computationally intensive and may take a while, depending on the size and complexity of your model.

A new tab should appear above the model viewing window, called "Gcode." You can look in this tab at the Gcode that will print your model (it should look like a huge plain text file).
To ensure uninterrupted printing, you should use "Build to File" and save your build to the MakerBot SD card. Remove the SD card from Veruca's motherboard (on the side of her case) and put it into an SD card reader. There should be a reader on the table or in the drawer. Click the Build to File icon in the toolbar and choose a model name on the "LVL1MKBOT" SD card. ReplicatorG should write quickly to the card, and when the write is complete you can replace the SD card into the MakerBot.

Your Gcode now ready! Read on...

== Step 2: Hardware ==

At this point you're ready to interface (read: wrestle) with the MakerBot hardware. This step can be time-consuming and frustrating, but don't be discouraged!

=== Connect the Bot ===

First, turn the MakerBot on. The power supply (on the back, at the bottom) has a black power switch; and the 'Bot itself has another, on the motherboard. When both are on and the whole thing is plugged in, you should see small green LEDs light up on the circuits.

Now you need to connect the MakerBot to ReplicatorG. Plug the black USB cable into your computer and, in ReplicatorG, choose Machine > Driver > "Cupcake CNC w/ heated build platform." If the software says the machine is disconnected, click "Connect machine" (the plugging-in icon in the top right). RepG should say the machine is connected.

If the machine still can't connect, you may need to try another serial port, under Machine > Serial Port > [something]. On a Mac or under Linux, [something] will look like /dev/cu.usbFFKIJ8. Under Windows, it might be COM1, COM2, etc.

When the machine's on, connected, and the software sees it, read on.

=== Prepare the Bot ===

The MakerBot is an open-loop system, which means it has no sensors to inform it about motor positions. It relies on the human users to position its build platform and print head at the origin, the position from which it will print. It also resets to room temperature after use.

==== Set Temperatures ====

Open the Control Panel by clicking the directional-arrows icon. On the left you'll see motor controls for the platform, and on the right various settings for the extruder and temperatures. '''Set the "Extruder Target Temperature" to 220 C. Set the "Platform Target Temperature" to 100 C.''' The heater relays should make audible clicking sounds as the machine heats correctly. To speed warmup and improve print quality, turn on the heat lamp and shine it on the build platform. If something doesn't begin heating properly, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

Once hot, the MakerBot may drool plastic from the extruder. This is normal; use some tweezers to keep plastic from pooling in the build area.

Your model file is in the SD card, and the MakerBot is heated to build temperature. All that remains is to zero the build platform and begin the build.

==== Zero the Platform ====

In the Control Panel, click "Disable" under "Stepper Motor Controls." Center the build platform under the print head by hand ('''be careful not to burn your hands on the top surface of the platform'''), and place a piece of scrap paper on the platform. This will be a clearance guide for the print head. Using the Z-Axis Crank on the top of the Bot, lower the extruder until the tip touches the paper on the build platform.

The head should be close enough to touch the paper, but you should also be able to slide the paper out without ripping it. If the head is too close, it will tear the tape on the platform. If it is too far, the plastic won't stick. The head should provide smooth resistance to removing the paper, but not too much.

Back in RepG, click "Build from SD Card" (The card pointing to a kidney-bean outline) and remove the paper as the extruder raises off the platform. Take a moment to find the "Stop"button in the toolbar, in case something should go wrong. The machine will sit for a moment, adjusting its temperature to that specified by your tooltip file. It will then clear the cold plastic from the extruder by extruding several inches of it, which you will have to remove with tweezers. The machine will then begin the build!

'''Tip:''' Hold the plastic with the tweezers as the extruder descends to the platform, and jerk the plastic away at the last second before the head touches the platform.

=== WATCH the Build ===

This step is very important. Especially the first time you print something, you need to keep an eye on the MakerBot. Perhaps the most crucial and error-prone phase is the first layer (or first few layers) of the print. The extruder head will descend very close to the platform and the first plastic layer should stick solidly and look very flat and squished. If the first layer doesn't stick (a common problem), stop the build and prepare the machine again.

If the print head cuts into the tape over the platform, stop the build and raise the extruder out of the way. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The Bot uses plastic slowly, but it will likely need more before finishing your build. For now, you will have to manually unroll more ABS from the reel on the table, to ensure the machine always has some easily available.

==Step 3: Cleanup ==

If your object printed successfully, hallelujah! If not, don't give up. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The MakerBot leaves filaments of plastic in open spaces where the print head must jump. These are accidental and you can cut them out with a sharp knife. You may want to trim any extraneous buildup form the top of the model, where the head sits when the build is done. You may also want to trim around the base of the model, where the first layers might have played out a bit.

When you are done printing, clean any dangling plastic from the extruder (which should be raised off the platform), and turn the Bot off. Unplug the USB cable. Congrats, you just printed in 3D!

MakerBot Quickstart

2015-03-21T23:13:51Z

Seanmcpherson:

THIS PAGE IS OUT OF DATE AND NEEDS TO BE UDPATED - FOR NOW, QUICK INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MAKERBOT MAKERWARE SOFTWARE ARE IN [http://wiki.lvl1.org/Clive_Badger CLIVE BADGER'S PAGE].

This page provides information for using the MakerBot of lvl1, "Veruca Gloop," for the first time. If you need more advanced help, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

== Step 1: Software ==

The MakerBot prints using instructions from your computer. ReplicatorG is the software specifically designed to work with MakerBots. Get ReplicatorG [http://www.replicat.org here].

=== Using ReplicatorG ===

ReplicatorG uses STL (stereolithography) files as models for printing in three dimensions. These STL files come from most major 3D CAD programs. Once you have your STL file, open it in ReplicatorG with File > Open.

Your model should appear somewhere in the cube outlined on the screen. This 10cm cube represents the boundaries of the MakerBot's build area (the MakerBot cannot print anything larger than 10cm cubed). If your model is not sitting on the build platform, choose Move > Put on Platform. You may need to use Rotate to align your model correctly. You can also scale your model by choosing Scale.

For best results, orient your model such that the widest part is on the platform. The MakerBot builds using extruded plastic, so it cannot build over large open spaces. Important: '''Make sure your model does not go below the build platform at any point. The MakerBot will try to build inside the platform by jamming the print head into it, potentially ruining both.''' When you have your model lined up, it's time to generate a toolpath.

==== Gcode and Toolpaths ====

The toolpath is a set of literal instructions that guide the MakerBot in each step of construction. ReplicatorG automatically uses a plugin called Skeinforge to generate toolpaths (in a language called "Gcode" from your model files. While your model is a pure theoretical representation of an object, the Gcode is different for every MakerBot. Every MakerBot has its quirks, and the Gcode should account for these.

Skeinforge uses groups of settings in "profiles" to manage different build styles. Veruca runs best on a custom profile, which you should download from the [[Veruca Gloop]] page. See the instructions on that page to guide you through adding the profile to your computer.

Once you have Veruca's optimized profile, click "Generate Gcode" and select this profile to prepare your model for printing. The toolpath generation step is computationally intensive and may take a while, depending on the size and complexity of your model.

A new tab should appear above the model viewing window, called "Gcode." You can look in this tab at the Gcode that will print your model (it should look like a huge plain text file).
To ensure uninterrupted printing, you should use "Build to File" and save your build to the MakerBot SD card. Remove the SD card from Veruca's motherboard (on the side of her case) and put it into an SD card reader. There should be a reader on the table or in the drawer. Click the Build to File icon in the toolbar and choose a model name on the "LVL1MKBOT" SD card. ReplicatorG should write quickly to the card, and when the write is complete you can replace the SD card into the MakerBot.

Your Gcode now ready! Read on...

== Step 2: Hardware ==

At this point you're ready to interface (read: wrestle) with the MakerBot hardware. This step can be time-consuming and frustrating, but don't be discouraged!

=== Connect the Bot ===

First, turn the MakerBot on. The power supply (on the back, at the bottom) has a black power switch; and the 'Bot itself has another, on the motherboard. When both are on and the whole thing is plugged in, you should see small green LEDs light up on the circuits.

Now you need to connect the MakerBot to ReplicatorG. Plug the black USB cable into your computer and, in ReplicatorG, choose Machine > Driver > "Cupcake CNC w/ heated build platform." If the software says the machine is disconnected, click "Connect machine" (the plugging-in icon in the top right). RepG should say the machine is connected.

If the machine still can't connect, you may need to try another serial port, under Machine > Serial Port > [something]. On a Mac or under Linux, [something] will look like /dev/cu.usbFFKIJ8. Under Windows, it might be COM1, COM2, etc.

When the machine's on, connected, and the software sees it, read on.

=== Prepare the Bot ===

The MakerBot is an open-loop system, which means it has no sensors to inform it about motor positions. It relies on the human users to position its build platform and print head at the origin, the position from which it will print. It also resets to room temperature after use.

==== Set Temperatures ====

Open the Control Panel by clicking the directional-arrows icon. On the left you'll see motor controls for the platform, and on the right various settings for the extruder and temperatures. '''Set the "Extruder Target Temperature" to 220 C. Set the "Platform Target Temperature" to 100 C.''' The heater relays should make audible clicking sounds as the machine heats correctly. To speed warmup and improve print quality, turn on the heat lamp and shine it on the build platform. If something doesn't begin heating properly, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

Once hot, the MakerBot may drool plastic from the extruder. This is normal; use some tweezers to keep plastic from pooling in the build area.

Your model file is in the SD card, and the MakerBot is heated to build temperature. All that remains is to zero the build platform and begin the build.

==== Zero the Platform ====

In the Control Panel, click "Disable" under "Stepper Motor Controls." Center the build platform under the print head by hand ('''be careful not to burn your hands on the top surface of the platform'''), and place a piece of scrap paper on the platform. This will be a clearance guide for the print head. Using the Z-Axis Crank on the top of the Bot, lower the extruder until the tip touches the paper on the build platform.

The head should be close enough to touch the paper, but you should also be able to slide the paper out without ripping it. If the head is too close, it will tear the tape on the platform. If it is too far, the plastic won't stick. The head should provide smooth resistance to removing the paper, but not too much.

Back in RepG, click "Build from SD Card" (The card pointing to a kidney-bean outline) and remove the paper as the extruder raises off the platform. Take a moment to find the "Stop"button in the toolbar, in case something should go wrong. The machine will sit for a moment, adjusting its temperature to that specified by your tooltip file. It will then clear the cold plastic from the extruder by extruding several inches of it, which you will have to remove with tweezers. The machine will then begin the build!

'''Tip:''' Hold the plastic with the tweezers as the extruder descends to the platform, and jerk the plastic away at the last second before the head touches the platform.

=== WATCH the Build ===

This step is very important. Especially the first time you print something, you need to keep an eye on the MakerBot. Perhaps the most crucial and error-prone phase is the first layer (or first few layers) of the print. The extruder head will descend very close to the platform and the first plastic layer should stick solidly and look very flat and squished. If the first layer doesn't stick (a common problem), stop the build and prepare the machine again.

If the print head cuts into the tape over the platform, stop the build and raise the extruder out of the way. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The Bot uses plastic slowly, but it will likely need more before finishing your build. For now, you will have to manually unroll more ABS from the reel on the table, to ensure the machine always has some easily available.

==Step 3: Cleanup ==

If your object printed successfully, hallelujah! If not, don't give up. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The MakerBot leaves filaments of plastic in open spaces where the print head must jump. These are accidental and you can cut them out with a sharp knife. You may want to trim any extraneous buildup form the top of the model, where the head sits when the build is done. You may also want to trim around the base of the model, where the first layers might have played out a bit.

When you are done printing, clean any dangling plastic from the extruder (which should be raised off the platform), and turn the Bot off. Unplug the USB cable. Congrats, you just printed in 3D!

MakerBot Quickstart

2015-03-21T23:13:04Z

Seanmcpherson:

This page provides information for using the MakerBot of lvl1, "Veruca Gloop," for the first time. If you need more advanced help, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

== Step 1: Software ==

THIS SECTION IS OUT OF DATE AND NEEDS TO BE UDPATED - FOR NOW, QUICK INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MAKERBOT MAKERWARE SOFTWARE ARE IN [http://wiki.lvl1.org/Clive_Badger CLIVE BADGER'S PAGE].

The MakerBot prints using instructions from your computer. ReplicatorG is the software specifically designed to work with MakerBots. Get ReplicatorG [http://www.replicat.org here].

=== Using ReplicatorG ===

ReplicatorG uses STL (stereolithography) files as models for printing in three dimensions. These STL files come from most major 3D CAD programs. Once you have your STL file, open it in ReplicatorG with File > Open.

Your model should appear somewhere in the cube outlined on the screen. This 10cm cube represents the boundaries of the MakerBot's build area (the MakerBot cannot print anything larger than 10cm cubed). If your model is not sitting on the build platform, choose Move > Put on Platform. You may need to use Rotate to align your model correctly. You can also scale your model by choosing Scale.

For best results, orient your model such that the widest part is on the platform. The MakerBot builds using extruded plastic, so it cannot build over large open spaces. Important: '''Make sure your model does not go below the build platform at any point. The MakerBot will try to build inside the platform by jamming the print head into it, potentially ruining both.''' When you have your model lined up, it's time to generate a toolpath.

==== Gcode and Toolpaths ====

The toolpath is a set of literal instructions that guide the MakerBot in each step of construction. ReplicatorG automatically uses a plugin called Skeinforge to generate toolpaths (in a language called "Gcode" from your model files. While your model is a pure theoretical representation of an object, the Gcode is different for every MakerBot. Every MakerBot has its quirks, and the Gcode should account for these.

Skeinforge uses groups of settings in "profiles" to manage different build styles. Veruca runs best on a custom profile, which you should download from the [[Veruca Gloop]] page. See the instructions on that page to guide you through adding the profile to your computer.

Once you have Veruca's optimized profile, click "Generate Gcode" and select this profile to prepare your model for printing. The toolpath generation step is computationally intensive and may take a while, depending on the size and complexity of your model.

A new tab should appear above the model viewing window, called "Gcode." You can look in this tab at the Gcode that will print your model (it should look like a huge plain text file).
To ensure uninterrupted printing, you should use "Build to File" and save your build to the MakerBot SD card. Remove the SD card from Veruca's motherboard (on the side of her case) and put it into an SD card reader. There should be a reader on the table or in the drawer. Click the Build to File icon in the toolbar and choose a model name on the "LVL1MKBOT" SD card. ReplicatorG should write quickly to the card, and when the write is complete you can replace the SD card into the MakerBot.

Your Gcode now ready! Read on...

== Step 2: Hardware ==

At this point you're ready to interface (read: wrestle) with the MakerBot hardware. This step can be time-consuming and frustrating, but don't be discouraged!

=== Connect the Bot ===

First, turn the MakerBot on. The power supply (on the back, at the bottom) has a black power switch; and the 'Bot itself has another, on the motherboard. When both are on and the whole thing is plugged in, you should see small green LEDs light up on the circuits.

Now you need to connect the MakerBot to ReplicatorG. Plug the black USB cable into your computer and, in ReplicatorG, choose Machine > Driver > "Cupcake CNC w/ heated build platform." If the software says the machine is disconnected, click "Connect machine" (the plugging-in icon in the top right). RepG should say the machine is connected.

If the machine still can't connect, you may need to try another serial port, under Machine > Serial Port > [something]. On a Mac or under Linux, [something] will look like /dev/cu.usbFFKIJ8. Under Windows, it might be COM1, COM2, etc.

When the machine's on, connected, and the software sees it, read on.

=== Prepare the Bot ===

The MakerBot is an open-loop system, which means it has no sensors to inform it about motor positions. It relies on the human users to position its build platform and print head at the origin, the position from which it will print. It also resets to room temperature after use.

==== Set Temperatures ====

Open the Control Panel by clicking the directional-arrows icon. On the left you'll see motor controls for the platform, and on the right various settings for the extruder and temperatures. '''Set the "Extruder Target Temperature" to 220 C. Set the "Platform Target Temperature" to 100 C.''' The heater relays should make audible clicking sounds as the machine heats correctly. To speed warmup and improve print quality, turn on the heat lamp and shine it on the build platform. If something doesn't begin heating properly, see [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

Once hot, the MakerBot may drool plastic from the extruder. This is normal; use some tweezers to keep plastic from pooling in the build area.

Your model file is in the SD card, and the MakerBot is heated to build temperature. All that remains is to zero the build platform and begin the build.

==== Zero the Platform ====

In the Control Panel, click "Disable" under "Stepper Motor Controls." Center the build platform under the print head by hand ('''be careful not to burn your hands on the top surface of the platform'''), and place a piece of scrap paper on the platform. This will be a clearance guide for the print head. Using the Z-Axis Crank on the top of the Bot, lower the extruder until the tip touches the paper on the build platform.

The head should be close enough to touch the paper, but you should also be able to slide the paper out without ripping it. If the head is too close, it will tear the tape on the platform. If it is too far, the plastic won't stick. The head should provide smooth resistance to removing the paper, but not too much.

Back in RepG, click "Build from SD Card" (The card pointing to a kidney-bean outline) and remove the paper as the extruder raises off the platform. Take a moment to find the "Stop"button in the toolbar, in case something should go wrong. The machine will sit for a moment, adjusting its temperature to that specified by your tooltip file. It will then clear the cold plastic from the extruder by extruding several inches of it, which you will have to remove with tweezers. The machine will then begin the build!

'''Tip:''' Hold the plastic with the tweezers as the extruder descends to the platform, and jerk the plastic away at the last second before the head touches the platform.

=== WATCH the Build ===

This step is very important. Especially the first time you print something, you need to keep an eye on the MakerBot. Perhaps the most crucial and error-prone phase is the first layer (or first few layers) of the print. The extruder head will descend very close to the platform and the first plastic layer should stick solidly and look very flat and squished. If the first layer doesn't stick (a common problem), stop the build and prepare the machine again.

If the print head cuts into the tape over the platform, stop the build and raise the extruder out of the way. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The Bot uses plastic slowly, but it will likely need more before finishing your build. For now, you will have to manually unroll more ABS from the reel on the table, to ensure the machine always has some easily available.

==Step 3: Cleanup ==

If your object printed successfully, hallelujah! If not, don't give up. See [[MakerBot Troubleshooting]].

The MakerBot leaves filaments of plastic in open spaces where the print head must jump. These are accidental and you can cut them out with a sharp knife. You may want to trim any extraneous buildup form the top of the model, where the head sits when the build is done. You may also want to trim around the base of the model, where the first layers might have played out a bit.

When you are done printing, clean any dangling plastic from the extruder (which should be raised off the platform), and turn the Bot off. Unplug the USB cable. Congrats, you just printed in 3D!

Main Page

2015-03-21T23:09:02Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Paper Work */

__NOTOC__
{| cellpadding="5" style="border:1px; background-color:#f9f9f9; solid #B0B0B0; padding:3px; width:100%; margin-bottom:2px;"
!width="49%"|
!width="49%"|
|-valign="top";|
| colspan="2" |
|valign="top"|
|-
|valign="top"|

===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]!

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings
* [[03/17/2015]]
* [[03/10/2015]]
* [[03/03/2015]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[KYOSS]]
* [http://muddytech.org MuddyTech]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* Study Groups
** [[Game Dev]]
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Mozilla Louisville]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
** [[Rabbit Laser]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[Media:Member_info_form.pdf|Member Info Form]]

Space

2015-03-21T20:20:20Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Spaces */

This page is meant to be a directory of space information about LVL1. Add a wiki page link here and follow it to fill out the details. To generate a QR Code image, insert <nowiki>{{Template:Space}}</nowiki> into the first line of your new page. You can also add <nowiki>{{Template:Space_Footer}}</nowiki> at the end of your new page.

== Spaces ==

* [[LVL1]]
* [[Main Room]]
* [[Bathroom]]
* [[Classroom]]
* [[Bunker]]
* [[Boneyard]]
* [[White Board]]
* [[Network]]
* [[Library]]
* [[Trash and Recycling]]
* [[Kitchen Cabinets]]
* [[Store]]
* [[KIPCUG Rack]]
* [[A/V Cabinet]]

Bunker

2015-03-21T20:17:50Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Rules */

== Location ==

The bunker, containing the wood shop and the metal shop, protrudes out of the southern face of the building. Enter through the plastic strip curtains.

== Rules ==

While it goes against LVL1's ethos to have too many rules, these are for your own personal safety, the safety of others, and consideration of others, which are definitely part of our ethos.

Always:
* Wear the proper safety equipment (especially safety glasses) when in workshop area. Safety glasses are available for your use in the corner of the wood shop by the door. Please clean them when you are finished before returning them to storage!
* Wear shoes that cover the complete foot: no sandals or flip flops.
* Familiarize yourself with the location of the first aid kit. This is located in the space's first aid center, in the front of the common room, near the double doors to the larger storage areas.
* Make sure you know where fire extinguishers are located. Large red and white vinyl "Fire Extinguisher" signs have been mounted on the walls to make this easier.
* Clean up your mess. Brooms, dustpans, garbage cans and vacuums abound. Make use of them.
* Put away any tools you used.
* Let someone know if you break a power tool or a bit, blade or handtool. It happens sometimes; just let someone know by contacting broken@lvl1.org
* ALWAYS CLEAN UP BEFORE YOU LEAVE.

Never:
* use a tool you are unfamiliar with. Ask someone if you aren't sure.
* use a tool in a way it wasn't designed; this is the quickest way to break a tool or to get injured.
* be in a rush. Rushing is how fingers are lost!
* use a rag or towel near running equipment.
* wear ties, loose clothing, jewelry, gloves, etc. when operating shop equipment.
* use compressed air guns to clean clothing and hair. Use the shopvac instead!
* service a machine while it is on - Unplug whereever practical.
* bring food or drink into the bunker area. Your food may become contiminated or be spilled into or onto equipment which can be difficult or dangerous to clean.

{{Template:Space_Footer}}

Mission

2015-03-21T20:09:39Z

Seanmcpherson:

== LVL1's Mission Statement ==
''From our [[Articles of Incorporation]]:''

LVL1's mission is to provide a shared space for collaborative technical and artistic experimentation in the Louisville area. This corporation is organized and operated exclusively for educational and charitable purposes within the meaning of section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code. We are a non-profit organization following the hackerspace model currently flourishing in cities all over the world. Our goal is to create an open workspace where engineers, artists and educators can meet and collaborate. LVL1 is where we begin making amazing things.

== Hackerspace Info & History ==

As defined by Wikipedia: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace]

"A hackerspace or hackspace (from Hacker and Space, sometimes referred to as a makerspace in reference to Make Magazine.) is a real (as opposed to virtual) place where people with common interests, usually in science, technology, or digital or electronic art can meet, socialise and collaborate. A hackerspace can be viewed as an open community lab, workbench, machine shop, workshop and/or studio where people of diverse backgrounds can come together to share resources and knowledge to build/make things."

Some more information on the history of hackerspaces:

http://blog.hackerspaces.org/2009/08/25/respect-the-past-examine-the-present-build-the-future/

General outline for Breeding Collective Culture: http://www.hackerbotlabs.com/breeding-collective-culture/

== LVL1 in the News (Past 6 Months) ==
* 19JAN2015 - "Welcome To The Maker-Industrial Revolution" http://www.popsci.com/welcome-industrial-maker-revolution
* 17DEC2014 - "FirstBuild, LVL1 featured in Popular Science" http://www.bizjournals.com/louisville/news/2014/12/17/firstbuild-lvl1-featured-in-popular-science.html
* 20NOV2014 - "GearBrake wins $100,000 at Vogt Awards" http://www.bizjournals.com/louisville/news/2014/11/20/gearbrake-wins-100-000-at-vogt-awards.html
* 14OCT2014 - "Co-Creating the Next Generation of Home Appliances" http://www.innovationexcellence.com/blog/2014/10/14/firstbuild-co-creating-the-next-generation-of-home-appliances/
* 30SEP2014 - "Mini Maker Faire joins fun, math and science" http://www.courier-journal.com/story/news/local/2014/09/27/mini-maker-faire-joins-fun-math-science/16342311/
* 29SEP2015 - "Louisville Mini Maker Faire showcases local maker movement" http://www.bizjournals.com/louisville/blog/2014/09/from-worlds-first-3-d-printed-car-to-a-roller.html
* 03SEP2014 - "Startup Weekend, the Louisville Mini Maker Faire and IdeaFestival" http://www.bizjournals.com/louisville/news/2014/09/03/venture-connectors-focuses-on-local-maker-movement.html?page=all
* 13AUG2014 - "Getting to know Louisville's tech, entrepreneurial scene" http://www.bizjournals.com/louisville/blog/2014/08/getting-to-know-louisvilles-tech-entrepreneurial.html?page=all
* 06AUG2014 - "LVL1 hackerspace plans 'ribbon exploding' to introduce new facility" http://www.bizjournals.com/louisville/blog/2014/08/lvl1-hackerspace-plans-ribbon-exploding-to.html

== Hackerspaces in the News ==

* http://online.wsj.com/article_email/SB125798004542744219-lMyQjAxMDI5NTE3MjkxODIwWj.html
* http://online.wsj.com/video/a-high-tech-diy-renaissance/D9B78132-9F0A-4206-8582-C372CA9A5EE7.html
* http://news.cnet.com/8301-11386_3-10405255-76.html
* http://www.pinemagazine.com/site/article/2087
* http://techdrawl.com/freeside-a-hacker-space-collective-in-atlanta/
* http://atlanta.creativeloafing.com/gyrobase/freeside_atlanta_makes_space_for_local_hackers/Content?oid=1214636
* http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2009/03/hackerspaces/
* http://www.tmcnet.com/usubmit/2009/11/28/4504928.htm
* http://columbiachronicle.com/hacking-chicago/
* http://pumpingstationone.org/blog/2009/02/what-is-a-hackerspace.html
* http://www.stltoday.com/stltoday/news/stories.nsf/stlouiscitycounty/story/B761E8B034D3D0D18625767C000D6B4B?OpenDocument
* http://news.cnet.com/8301-27080_3-10405255-245.html

O&D Current Actions

2015-03-21T19:54:52Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Sean M */

== Officer and Director Goals ==

=== Danielle B ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Ben H ===
* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Nathan Armentrout ===

* Establish & curate the LVL1 Museum
* Actively document & publish (video, photos, recaps) all events occurring at LVL1
* Encourage the LVL1 community to share and document their projects through LVL1 media
* Continually review & revise all LVL1 websites to reflect current information and improve ease of use
* Develop a comprehensive media template suite for public publishing with aid of knowledgeable members

=== Daniel J ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Jose C ===
* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Sean M ===
* Identify alternate sources of non-grant funding (community funding via purchasing programs, etc)
* Update Wiki documentation and promote a regular review of content (First Wiki Update-A-Thon Completed 21MAR2015)
* Promote visibility through social media and community programs
* Improve functional conditions of the space (heating, cooling, electrical, etc)

Clive Badger

2015-03-21T19:46:13Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Maintenance Log */

{{Template:Equipment|owner=LVL1 owned
|model=Makerbot Replicator
|serial=?
|arrived=June 1, 2012
|doesitwork=Working
|contact=Chris C
|where=3D printing area in main room}}<br>
__NOTOC__

Note on infill: For models that don't need structural integrity, use less infill. Even in the 2-3% range. Less infill means less wasted plastic.

Note on slicing profiles: Watch that someone hasn't reset the profile to something experimental that can damage the Makerbot. Stick with Replicator default unless you know what you're doing.

Note on materials: There may be a mixture of ABS and PLA filament. Make sure to check the labeling and your print settings, as the materials require slightly different settings which will effect your printing success.

==MakerWare MakerBot Desktop V3.3.0.31 ABS Print Sequence==
(Assumes a prepared STL file and using Makerbot ABS filament on the right nozzle)
* Make sure the Replicator has power (power switch is located on the rear in the lower right corner)
* Check that sufficient filament is loaded and that the nozzle is clean (no blob of plastic from a prior print - remove it as needed)
* Press the "up" or "Left" arrows on the black membrane around the red "m" enter button until "Build/Preheat/Utilities" is visble.
* Select "Preheat" and then set "Platform" and the "Right" head to "On"
* Select "Start PreHeat" - the LCD should show the status of the operation including the temperatures of the print platform and extruder(s)

* Open "MakerWare" (red "m" icon on left task bar) on Ubuntu 3D printing PC
* If prompted for a new version, please do not download it if you are not prepared to manage any changes required and update the documentation yourself immediately!
* To print an existing file (from Thingiverse, prior project, etc) browse to the file. Member files on the share server are located under "/mnt/z/Member Files".
* If asked "Put Object On Platform?" the answer is most likely "Move to Platform". Not selecting this may "embed" the model in or above the paltform and the print will fail.
* Move or scale the object as needed
* Choose "Settings" and varify the values are correct for the project and filament
* Ensure the left and right nozzles are set to "Makerbot ABS"
* Select the proper resolution (High is the slowest but is assumed for this example)
* Check the "Advanced Options"
* Set the "Profile" to "High" and verify that the "Slicer" shows "MakerBot Slicer"
* Under the "Quality" tab, Verify InFill is set to 10% or lower (in most cases)
* Set the proper Number of Shells for your job (2-5 are most common)
* Set the Layer Height (0.20 mm is common)
* Under the "Temperature" tab, ensure the left and right extruder are set at approximatelt 230-232 degrees C
* Select "Heat the Build Plate"
* Set the temperature of the "Build Plate" to 110 degrees C
* Under the "Speed" tab, verify the "Speed While Extruding" is set to approximately 75 mm/s
* Verify the "Speed While Travelling" is set to approximately 100 mm/s
* Save the settings
* Choose "Export Print File" - the software will generate the prepared code and will show the resolution, rafts and supports values (Check them!)
* When the "preparing" process completes, an estimate of print time and material will be shown; Save your file and move it to an SD card (the SD card write on the Ubuntu machine is currently missing - You may use the laser printer PC's SD card slot in the meantime)
* Load the SD Card into the right hand side of the printer (label out towards the room)
* If a previous print has been completed without issues, the bed should not nee to be levelled. If the bed has not been leveled, select "Utilities" and "Level Build Plate" - The LCD will walk you thru the process.
* Once the platform is fully preheated, Select "Build from SD"
* The bed will lower and then rise up to meet the head to zero out the Z axis. It will then lower all the way to the bottom.
* As the bed hits the bottom and starts to rise, it is about to start the print: one *quick* spray of AquaNet across the platform where the build will be perforemd is sufficient to provide proper surface tension.
* The extruder will first print a single thin line of plastic across the front of the build platform to extrude any leftover material.
* The LCD will show the elapsed time of the print job.

==ReplicatorG default ABS settings==
* Slicing Profile: Replicator 2 Default
* Use Raft / Support (Check if you have overhangs or many pieces on a single build, otherwise uncheck)
* Use support Material (Exterior support if you have overhangs greater than 45 degree angles)
* Use default start / end gcode (Always check)
* Use Print-O-Matic (Always check)
===Settings===
* Object Infill (10%)
* Layer Height (.27)
* Number of Shells (1)
* Feedrate (41)
* Travel Feedrate (51)
* Print Temperature (220)

==ReplicatorG Accelerated ABS print settings==
* Slicing Profile: Replicator 2 Default
* Use Raft / Support (Check if you have overhangs or many pieces on a single build, otherwise uncheck)
* Use support Material (Exterior support if you have overhangs greater than 45 degree angles)
* Use default start / end gcode (Always check)
* Use Print-O-Matic (Always check)
===Settings===
* Object Infill (10%)
* Layer Height (.27)
* Number of Shells (1)
* Feedrate (80)
* Travel Feedrate (150)
* Print Temperature (230)

==ReplicatorG fine resolution ABS print settings==
* Slicing Profile: Replicator 2 Default
* Use Raft / Support (Check if you have overhangs or many pieces on a single build, otherwise uncheck)
* Use support Material (Exterior support if you have overhangs greater than 45 degree angles)
* Use default start / end gcode (Always check)
* Use Print-O-Matic (Always check)
===Settings===
* Object Infill (10%)
* Layer Height (.2)
* Number of Shells (1)
* Feedrate (40)
* Travel Feedrate (50)
* Print Temperature (220)

Purchased for LVL1 from NSF funds for the UofL Speed School Co-op Makership

==Maintenance Log==
* 04/18/2014 - Maintenance log created.
* 09/15/2014 - Swapped front console with Clive Badger. Currently installed front console buttons work. SD card slot may or may not be working. (Nathan A.)
* 03/21/2015 - Front SD card slot confirmed working - Right extruder confirmed working (Labeled for ABS ONLY); name label created, "Bed Leveled" rotatable magnet added - still needs QR code (Sean McP)

Clive Badger

2015-03-21T19:16:22Z

Seanmcpherson:

Clive Badger

2015-03-21T19:09:47Z

Seanmcpherson:

{{Template:Equipment|owner=LVL1 owned
|model=Makerbot Replicator
|serial=?
|arrived=June 1, 2012
|doesitwork=Working
|contact=Chris C
|where=3D printing area in main room}}<br>
__NOTOC__

Note on infill: For models that don't need structural integrity, use less infill. Even in the 2-3% range. Less infill means less wasted plastic.

Note on slicing profiles: Watch that someone hasn't reset the profile to something experimental that can damage the Makerbot. Stick with Replicator default unless you know what you're doing.

Note on materials: There may be a mixture of ABS and PLA filament. Make sure to check the labeling and your print settings, as the materials require slightly different settings which will effect your printing success.

==MakerWare MakerBot Desktop V3.3.0.31 ABS Print Sequence (Assuming a prepared STL file and using Makerbot ABS filament on the right nozzle)
* Make sure the Replicator has power (power switch is located on the rear in the lower right corner)
* Check that sufficient filament is loaded and that the nozzle is clean (no blob of plastic from a prior print - remove it as needed)
* Press the "up" or "Left" arrows on the black membrane around the red "m" enter button until "Build/Preheat/Utilities" is visble.
* Select "Preheat" and then set "Platform" and the "Right" head to "On"
* Select "Start PreHeat" - the LCD should show the status of the operation including the temperatures of the print platform and extruder(s)

* Open "MakerWare" (red "m" icon on left task bar) on Ubuntu 3D printing PC
* If prompted for a new version, please do not download it if you are not prepared to manage any changes required and update the documentation yourself immediately!
* To print an existing file (from Thingiverse, prior project, etc) browse to the file. Member files on the share server are located under "/mnt/z/Member Files".
* If asked "Put Object On Platform?" the answer is most likely "Move to Platform". Not selecting this may "embed" the model in or above the paltform and the print will fail.
* Move or scale the object as needed
* Choose "Settings" and varify the values are correct for the project and filament
* Ensure the left and right nozzles are set to "Makerbot ABS"
* Select the proper resolution (High is the slowest but is assumed for this example)
* Check the "Advanced Options"
* Set the "Profile" to "High" and verify that the "Slicer" shows "MakerBot Slicer"
* Under the "Quality" tab, Verify InFill is set to 10% or lower (in most cases)
* Set the proper Number of Shells for your job (2-5 are most common)
* Set the Layer Height (0.20 mm is common)
* Under the "Temperature" tab, ensure the left and right extruder are set at approximatelt 230-232 degrees C
* Select "Heat the Build Plate"
* Set the temperature of the "Build Plate" to 110 degrees C
* Under the "Speed" tab, verify the "Speed While Extruding" is set to approximately 75 mm/s
* Verify the "Speed While Travelling" is set to approximately 100 mm/s
* Save the settings
* Choose "Export Print File" - the software will generate the prepared code and will show the resolution, rafts and supports values (Check them!)
* When the "preparing" process completes, an estimate of print time and material will be shown; Save your file and move it to an SD card (the SD card write on the Ubuntu machine is currently missing - You may use the laser printer PC's SD card slot in the meantime)
* Load the SD Card into the right hand side of the printer (label out towards the room)
* If a previous print has been completed without issues, the bed should not nee to be levelled. If the bed has not been leveled, select "Utilities" and "Level Build Plate" - The LCD will walk you thru the process.
* Once the platform is fully preheated, Select "Build from SD"
* The bed will lower and then rise up to meet the head to zero out the Z axis. It will then lower all the way to the bottom.
* As the bed hits the bottom and starts to rise, it is about to start the print: one *quick* spray of AquaNet across the platform where the build will be perforemd is sufficient to provide proper surface tension.
* The extruder will first print a single thin line of plastic across the front of the build platform to extrude any leftover material.
* The LCD will show the elapsed time of the print job.

==ReplicatorG default ABS settings==
* Slicing Profile: Replicator 2 Default
* Use Raft / Support (Check if you have overhangs or many pieces on a single build, otherwise uncheck)
* Use support Material (Exterior support if you have overhangs greater than 45 degree angles)
* Use default start / end gcode (Always check)
* Use Print-O-Matic (Always check)
===Settings===
* Object Infill (10%)
* Layer Height (.27)
* Number of Shells (1)
* Feedrate (41)
* Travel Feedrate (51)
* Print Temperature (220)

==ReplicatorG Accelerated ABS print settings==
* Slicing Profile: Replicator 2 Default
* Use Raft / Support (Check if you have overhangs or many pieces on a single build, otherwise uncheck)
* Use support Material (Exterior support if you have overhangs greater than 45 degree angles)
* Use default start / end gcode (Always check)
* Use Print-O-Matic (Always check)
===Settings===
* Object Infill (10%)
* Layer Height (.27)
* Number of Shells (1)
* Feedrate (80)
* Travel Feedrate (150)
* Print Temperature (230)

==ReplicatorG fine resolution ABS print settings==
* Slicing Profile: Replicator 2 Default
* Use Raft / Support (Check if you have overhangs or many pieces on a single build, otherwise uncheck)
* Use support Material (Exterior support if you have overhangs greater than 45 degree angles)
* Use default start / end gcode (Always check)
* Use Print-O-Matic (Always check)
===Settings===
* Object Infill (10%)
* Layer Height (.2)
* Number of Shells (1)
* Feedrate (40)
* Travel Feedrate (50)
* Print Temperature (220)

Purchased for LVL1 from NSF funds for the UofL Speed School Co-op Makership

==Maintenance Log==
* 04/18/2014 - Maintenance log created.
* 09/15/2014 - Swapped front console with Clive Badger. Currently installed front console buttons work. SD card slot may or may not be working. (Nathan A.)
* 03/21/2015 - Front SD card slot confirmed working - Right extruder confirmed working (Labeled for ABS ONLY); name label created - still needs QR code (Sean McP)

Clive Badger

2015-03-21T18:08:18Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Maintenance Log */

Rabbit Laser

2015-03-21T18:01:13Z

Seanmcpherson: /* How to use the Laser in Table mode */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

The laser cutter fumes are filtered by an activated carbon filter before being dumped outside. This carbon filter keeps any fumes from possibly disturbing the neighbor's smoking area. When the carbon filter is used-up, there is a nearly-100% blockage of airflow through the filter. This results in laser fumes filling the space, and LVL1 receiving complaints from other tenants in the building.

Some signs the laser filter is not operating properly:
* Cutting is taking much longer than normal
* The laser is filling with smoke (Normally, ALL SMOKE should exit rapidly)
* The space is filling with fumes

There is an airflow switch installed on the filter which will cause the laser to stop operating if the filter is sufficiently clogged. Although this provides some level of safety, please be aware of the signs of laser filter failure. If you notice laser fumes filling the space, DISCONTINUE the use of the laser, or tell the operator of the laser to discontinue use.

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format)
* BMP
* JPG
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrave cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!
# When you are finished with the laser cut software, Don't forget to move your files to your member folder on the Z-drive of the file server or to your own USB key or SD card.

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2015-03-21T17:58:20Z

Seanmcpherson: /* How to use the Laser in Table mode */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

The laser cutter fumes are filtered by an activated carbon filter before being dumped outside. This carbon filter keeps any fumes from possibly disturbing the neighbor's smoking area. When the carbon filter is used-up, there is a nearly-100% blockage of airflow through the filter. This results in laser fumes filling the space, and LVL1 receiving complaints from other tenants in the building.

Some signs the laser filter is not operating properly:
* Cutting is taking much longer than normal
* The laser is filling with smoke (Normally, ALL SMOKE should exit rapidly)
* The space is filling with fumes

There is an airflow switch installed on the filter which will cause the laser to stop operating if the filter is sufficiently clogged. Although this provides some level of safety, please be aware of the signs of laser filter failure. If you notice laser fumes filling the space, DISCONTINUE the use of the laser, or tell the operator of the laser to discontinue use.

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format)
* BMP
* JPG
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrave cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2015-03-21T17:57:39Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Maintenance Schedule */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

The laser cutter fumes are filtered by an activated carbon filter before being dumped outside. This carbon filter keeps any fumes from possibly disturbing the neighbor's smoking area. When the carbon filter is used-up, there is a nearly-100% blockage of airflow through the filter. This results in laser fumes filling the space, and LVL1 receiving complaints from other tenants in the building.

Some signs the laser filter is not operating properly:
* Cutting is taking much longer than normal
* The laser is filling with smoke (Normally, ALL SMOKE should exit rapidly)
* The space is filling with fumes

There is an airflow switch installed on the filter which will cause the laser to stop operating if the filter is sufficiently clogged. Although this provides some level of safety, please be aware of the signs of laser filter failure. If you notice laser fumes filling the space, DISCONTINUE the use of the laser, or tell the operator of the laser to discontinue use.

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format)
* BMP
* JPG
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrace cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2015-03-21T17:49:40Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Maintenance Log */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

The laser cutter fumes are filtered by an activated carbon filter before being dumped outside. This carbon filter keeps any fumes from possibly disturbing the neighbor's smoking area. When the carbon filter is used-up, there is a nearly-100% blockage of airflow through the filter. This results in laser fumes filling the space, and LVL1 receiving complaints from other tenants in the building.

Some signs the laser filter is not operating properly:
* Cutting is taking much longer than normal
* The laser is filling with smoke (Normally, ALL SMOKE should exit rapidly)
* The space is filling with fumes

There is an airflow switch installed on the filter which will cause the laser to stop operating if the filter is sufficiently clogged. Although this provides some level of safety, please be aware of the signs of laser filter failure. If you notice laser fumes filling the space, DISCONTINUE the use of the laser, or tell the operator of the laser to discontinue use.

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format)
* BMP
* JPG
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrace cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray.
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2015-03-21T17:48:54Z

Seanmcpherson: /* How to use the Laser in Table mode */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

The laser cutter fumes are filtered by an activated carbon filter before being dumped outside. This carbon filter keeps any fumes from possibly disturbing the neighbor's smoking area. When the carbon filter is used-up, there is a nearly-100% blockage of airflow through the filter. This results in laser fumes filling the space, and LVL1 receiving complaints from other tenants in the building.

Some signs the laser filter is not operating properly:
* Cutting is taking much longer than normal
* The laser is filling with smoke (Normally, ALL SMOKE should exit rapidly)
* The space is filling with fumes

There is an airflow switch installed on the filter which will cause the laser to stop operating if the filter is sufficiently clogged. Although this provides some level of safety, please be aware of the signs of laser filter failure. If you notice laser fumes filling the space, DISCONTINUE the use of the laser, or tell the operator of the laser to discontinue use.

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format)
* BMP
* JPG
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrace cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray.
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2015-03-21T16:07:18Z

Seanmcpherson: /* How to use the Laser in Table mode */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

The laser cutter fumes are filtered by an activated carbon filter before being dumped outside. This carbon filter keeps any fumes from possibly disturbing the neighbor's smoking area. When the carbon filter is used-up, there is a nearly-100% blockage of airflow through the filter. This results in laser fumes filling the space, and LVL1 receiving complaints from other tenants in the building.

Some signs the laser filter is not operating properly:
* Cutting is taking much longer than normal
* The laser is filling with smoke (Normally, ALL SMOKE should exit rapidly)
* The space is filling with fumes

There is an airflow switch installed on the filter which will cause the laser to stop operating if the filter is sufficiently clogged. Although this provides some level of safety, please be aware of the signs of laser filter failure. If you notice laser fumes filling the space, DISCONTINUE the use of the laser, or tell the operator of the laser to discontinue use.

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format)
* BMP
* JPG
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them.
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray.
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

O&D Current Actions

2015-02-18T00:42:49Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Officer and Director Goals */

== Officer and Director Goals ==

=== Danielle B ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Ben H ===
* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Nathan Armentrout ===

* Establish & curate the LVL1 Museum
* Actively document & publish (video, photos, recaps) all events occurring at LVL1
* Encourage the LVL1 community to share and document their projects through LVL1 media
* Continually review & revise all LVL1 websites to reflect current information and improve ease of use
* Develop a comprehensive media template suite for public publishing with aid of knowledgeable members

=== Daniel J ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Jose C ===
* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Patrick J ===
* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Sean M ===
* Identify alternate sources of non-grant funding (community funding via purchasing programs, etc)
* Update Wiki documentation and promote a regular review of content
* Promote visibility through social media and community programs

O&D Current Actions

2015-02-18T00:33:30Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Jose C */

O&D Current Actions

2015-02-18T00:32:28Z

Seanmcpherson: /* *cherith */

== Officer and Director Goals ==

=== Danielle B ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Ben H ===
* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Nathan Armentrout ===

* Establish & curate the LVL1 Museum
* Actively document & publish (video, photos, recaps) all events occurring at LVL1
* Encourage the LVL1 community to share and document their projects through LVL1 media
* Continually review & revise all LVL1 websites to reflect current information and improve ease of use
* Develop a comprehensive media template suite for public publishing with aid of knowledgeable members

=== Daniel J ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Raj Shah ===
* Better secure LVL1's finances (Reserve fund, Set up a money market account, etc.)
* Teach at least 2 workshops.
* Network LVL1 with the business community.
* Offer LVL1 members resources and education to pursue any business ideas or goals.
* Finish the LVL1 library system.
* Help transfer the Director of Legal Evil's assets from the Cayman Islands to Nauru.

O&D Current Actions

2015-02-18T00:31:37Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Ben H */

== Officer and Director Goals ==

=== Danielle B ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Ben H ===
* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Nathan Armentrout ===

* Establish & curate the LVL1 Museum
* Actively document & publish (video, photos, recaps) all events occurring at LVL1
* Encourage the LVL1 community to share and document their projects through LVL1 media
* Continually review & revise all LVL1 websites to reflect current information and improve ease of use
* Develop a comprehensive media template suite for public publishing with aid of knowledgeable members

=== *cherith ===

*learn how to use at least one piece of equipment I don't already know
*re-familiarize myself with at least one piece of equipment I haven't used in a while
*train/help those in need with the equipment I already know

=== Raj Shah ===
* Better secure LVL1's finances (Reserve fund, Set up a money market account, etc.)
* Teach at least 2 workshops.
* Network LVL1 with the business community.
* Offer LVL1 members resources and education to pursue any business ideas or goals.
* Finish the LVL1 library system.
* Help transfer the Director of Legal Evil's assets from the Cayman Islands to Nauru.

O&D Current Actions

2015-02-18T00:30:29Z

Seanmcpherson: /* Danielle B */

== Officer and Director Goals ==

=== Danielle B ===

* 1
* 2
* 3

=== Tim Miller ===
* Figure out member management
* Update accounting software/new software
* Run meetups and Teach one class

=== Nathan Armentrout ===

* Establish & curate the LVL1 Museum
* Actively document & publish (video, photos, recaps) all events occurring at LVL1
* Encourage the LVL1 community to share and document their projects through LVL1 media
* Continually review & revise all LVL1 websites to reflect current information and improve ease of use
* Develop a comprehensive media template suite for public publishing with aid of knowledgeable members

=== *cherith ===

*learn how to use at least one piece of equipment I don't already know
*re-familiarize myself with at least one piece of equipment I haven't used in a while
*train/help those in need with the equipment I already know

=== Raj Shah ===
* Better secure LVL1's finances (Reserve fund, Set up a money market account, etc.)
* Teach at least 2 workshops.
* Network LVL1 with the business community.
* Offer LVL1 members resources and education to pursue any business ideas or goals.
* Finish the LVL1 library system.
* Help transfer the Director of Legal Evil's assets from the Cayman Islands to Nauru.