LVL1 - User contributions [en]

Rabbit Laser

2020-02-19T18:32:53Z

Pdgossen: document the 1/28/2020 laser replacement, firmware upgrade, and new RDWorksV8 software

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
|picture=Rabbit_Laser.jpg
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Restrictions =

This laser cutter is restricted to member-use only. It is only operable through RFID badge access, and names & times of members' usage will be kept in a log. This accountability is an effort to maintain responsible use of the laser--see "Laser Odor" below.
Remember: '''use your LVL1 key card to activate the laser for cutting AND lock out the laser when you are finished.''' Failure to swipe your card a second time can leave you logged into the system (which you will still be held responsible for).

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

Laser fumes are normally vented through the window and out a shaft. Outdoors, the fumes do not bother residents.
If you start to smell odor, then the fumes are backing up into the space and ''will soon bother our neighbors.''

'''IF YOU NOTICE AN ODOR beginning to fill the space, IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE LASER USE.'''

Similarly, when you finish your project, wait a few moments before opening the laser cutter to allow the fumes to exit.

''Our landlords have made it clear that another odor complaint from our neighbors will result in permanent prohibition of the laser.''

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find manuals, information, drivers, and software=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on the computer table to the right of the laser
* The top box of [https://rabbitlaserusa.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=9 this web page] has Ruida Controllers and RDWorks V8 Software
* Download your own copy of RDWorks V8 [https://rabbitlaserusa.com/DriverDisk/Ruida/RDWorks/ from here] to design your own files at home to bring to the space for cutting and engraving
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvrMeUUzaBo&list=PLeKaKWOIPgi_XP6Nxzeapp-vUMCLQyVMB RDWorks Learning Lab, 144-video playlist]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvrMeUUzaBo&list=PLfSmv7yCA5lmKPvkmFXt4Wf6gK76Lkoup Russ Sadler, The Laser Man, 204-video playlist]

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format) (for vector cutting)
* PLT (for vector cutting)
* BMP (engraving only)
* JPG (engraving only)
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use Autodesk Fusion 360 to create laser cutter files=
LVL1 member John Simpson created a how to guide on creating files acceptable by the laser cutter (.plt) using Autodesk Fusion 360 and Inkscape which are both free software programs. The advantage of using Fusion 360 to create these files versus Inkscape is the ability to dimension your part quickly and easily through sketches. The writeup document is linked below:
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r_iMgHZRGHOcMtj4oLpRxGqAYZAq0o2DmzFJcj1Wkgg How to use Autodesk Fusion 360 to create laser cutter files]

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrave cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Use your LVL1 Member Access Key to turn on the laser by swiping it across the reader (the indicator light beside it will go from "red" to "green" and there will be a "beep").
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc". (Alternatively, you can simply start without setting an anchor. For this to work, any existing anchor would have to be canceled: press "Esc" then "Anchor" and select the cancel option on the LCD, if one shows up.)
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!
# When you are finished with the laser cut software, Don't forget to move your files to your member folder on the Z-drive of the file server or to your own USB key or SD card. Similarly, please cancel an anchor point, if you have made one.
# Make sure to swipe your Member Key again after you are finished to log out!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=
*NOTE: This is advanced--do not attempt without training!**
Using the Roller-Type Rotary attachment... Our customer was very interested in purchasing our laser machine, and also interested in using the roller-style rotary attachment.
**Make sure the main door is up and safety switches will NOT allow the laser to fire. **
# Move the worktable down such that the attachment and materials will surely fit underneath the focal head assembly. When you put the rotary attachment down in the work area, be careful not to damage the honeycomb bed. Some customers put a plywood insert in place of the honeycomb bed. You can see in this picture that I used some corrugated plastic board to protect the honeycomb bed from getting dented by me as I adjust the roller attachment. The tail-stock end of the rotary attachment is a free-rolling support for the material to engrave onto.
# Adjust the tailstock end of the attachment so it is at the right distance from the head. This is to ensure the material fits securely on the roller attachment. The tailstock end is needed to help support the material and the front end of the roller attachment drives the motion. The front end of the material needs adequate weight to make sure the roller o-rings keep traction during the cutting motions. Extra*** It is very neat to engrave wine glasses, but they often do not have the weight needed to keep traction. I usually press "Silly Putty" into the wine glass to give it more weight and disperse the heat as not to shatter the thin glass.
# Look at how the rotary attachment sits under the Y Axis Rail. Align the rotary attachment to be in line with the rail. We need for the laser to hit in the "top-dead-center" of the material that you have on the rotary attachment.
# Now to make sure the laser will be in focus. Move the focal assembly to the right end of the material and bring the worktable up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up.
# Move the focal assembly to the tail-stock end of the material and adjust the rollers up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up. The flashlight in this picture will have a long distance that could be engraved, but some materials may only present a short distance that could be in focus.. (example: short wine glasses) * This picture shows the knob for adjusting the height of the tail-stock end of the rotary attachment.
# Now that the rotary attachment is sitting in place, it needs to be connected to the machine. The motor connector and wires need to be routed through the square hole and taken to the motor amplifier. This picture shows the square hole from inside the laser work area. This picture shows the square hole from inside the electronics panel. *** Make sure the power is OFF before you remove the motor wires. Tie the wires off to the side. Place the wire connector (for the rotary attachment) onto the connector of the Y-Axis amplifier. Do not push too hard... It helps to slightly wiggle the connector as you push it on. After everything is reconnected, turn the power back on.***
#Please use the below pictures as a guide on how to unplug and plug in the wiring - remember to turn the machine OFF before getting into the wiring
# This picture shows the appropriate wire to unplug to turn off power to the Yaxis [[Media:Laser-RotaryWiring.jpg]]
# This picture shows where to connect the rotary tool on the amplifier (it's on the far right, and then plug in the two pronged connector)[[Media:Laser-RotaryWiringYaxis.jpg]]
# Now we need to adjust the software settings to produce images that are truly the correct proportion and not stretched in the Y axis direction. We expect that the computer system is turned on, software is already installed, and the LaserCut 5.3 is working correctly. Start LaserCut 5.3 with a fresh project. Select the "File" in the menu and then select "Machine-Options" .. or press Ctrl and J buttons together for the hotkey function. The "MachineOptions" window will turn on.
# Select the settings for the "Worktable" ... seen here in the picture as highlighted in blue.
# Notice the current value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] is 0.007943125. This is the default distance that each pulse command will move the laser machine. This value is used for the linear rails.
# Change the value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] to 0.01823829. This is the "approximate" value for the drive end of the rotary axis. This number might be different depending on the diameter of the O-rings in your rotary attachment.
# Save the changes to the "Machine Options" that we have just made. Simply press "OK" .. you should not need to insert a new password.
# Close the "Machine Options" window. *** Your are now ready to start a new project with the rotary axis. ** Here is an example of how I engraved my name around the top of the Maglight flashlight. Please notice that the flashlight has two obvious diameters. The diameter of the flashlight head at the drive wheels is larger than the body of the flashlight. We cannot turn the flashlight around because we can't get it to be level that way... We must use the flashlight with the bulb at the drive end of the rotary attachment. The problem is "How do we set up the rotary attachment for us to have finished pictures that aren't stretched?" It is pretty easy to do trial and error to get a "square picture", but let's do it with math. Measure the diameter of the drive end (D1) and diameter of the body (D2). Now use your calculator to find D2/D1 * 0.01823829 = (new YAxis Pulse value). Enter this number into the Machine Options table, save settings, .. and ready to engrave the new section of the flashlight. Please remember that you will need to put the original Y-Axis Pulse value back into the "Machine Options" section before you can use the laser machine in normal mode (without the rotary axis).

**Questions: **
Q) I did the installation, but all the graphics are backwards or upside-down. What to do to fix this?
A) Go the the electrical connector of the stepper motor. There should be four wires going into a green plastic connector. Turn the machine power off. Loosen the screws for the two wires at the end of the connector (B+ and B-), Switch the position of these two wires. Tighten the screws back down. Turn the machine power back on. The rotary attachment will now go the other direction when given a command to move.

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.
* If your laser engraving turns out to be in perfect circles instead of the full area, there is an option to put small circles in an engraved area, to fix this:
** Create your your engrave area/shape and select it
** Double click on the speed/power area to the top right of the screen on the line for engraving
**when a dialog box pops up Click on the "..." button to the right of the radio box for "Blow"
** Take the checkmark out of the boxes for Fill Circle & Engrave Circle

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray
* '''1/28/2020''' - major upgrade: new laser, new controller board and firmware, mirror alignment, upgrade to RDWorksV8 PC software
* '''2/15/2020''' - a routine maintenance tracking and reminder spreadsheet has been loaded onto the shared drive and is called up automatically on the laser PC when the shortcut is used to launch the RDWorks laser software

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Jointer Jet JJ-6CSDX

2020-01-16T02:48:49Z

Pdgossen: /* Replacing Knives */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner= LVL1
|serial= 17013185
|model= Jet JJ-6CSDX
|arrived= don't know
|doesitwork= Yes
|contact=
|where= Wood Shop
|picture= DSC 7247.JPG
}}

== Care and Maintenance ==
=== Manual ===
[[File:Jet jointer 6in 708457K man EN.pdf]]

=== Replacing Knives ===
Cutting head (as of Jan 2020) is Jet model JJ-6CSX. I holds 3 knives, which should always be replaced as a matched set. Knives are 6" X 5/8" X 1/8".

Example source: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Industrial-Planer-Jointer-C350/dp/B00004RK6O

Graphtec Vinyl Cutter

2019-11-03T20:21:54Z

Pdgossen:

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=20120801
|model=Graphtec CE-5000
|arrived=March 2013
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=Brian W, Aaron V
|where=Main Room
}}

=Basic Info=
*Located in main room next to bunker doorway
*has computer workstation already hooked up to cutter.
**Bring files to this workstation on a jump drive.
**[[Vinyl_Cutter_101|Vinyl Cutter 101]] page teaches how to create and prepare your files
*The vinyl use costs is $1 per linear foot of vinyl used (even if you don't use all of the vinyl in the piece you pay for.) The linear foot is measured from the edge of the vinyl towards the wall. Put your money in a black envelope on top of the safe by the front door and then drop the envelope into the safe. You can save unused vinyl for future use or place it with other scraps on the shelf to the right of the vinyl cutter for others to use.

=Configuration=
* The knife should not cut through the paper backing! A little scratching is OK, but if it's leaving holes in the paper you've got the pressure set too high.
* 15 is a good pressure for the vinyl we have now. THERE IS NO REASON FOR IT TO BE SET TO 23! If it is not cutting well enough at 15-17. try holding the blade ( to the right of the moving cartridge)in place with your fingers and twisting the top of it to tighten the blade and twisting the knob on the side of the blade to hold it in place better. You may also want to switch the tool out of pen mode
=Using the Plotter=
===Load Vinyl===
* Place roll on back rack
* Put lever in down position to unlock
* feed vinyl in from the back
** it will get stuck on lips as you push it through. I suggest using a small tool to help lift it up.
[[File:leverdown.jpg]]
===Position Rollers===
* With the lever unlocked, slide the rollers into the appropriate spots
* Rollers can only be placed underneath the blue lines
** If you look closely in the picture, you can see the knurling on the bar beneath the rollers. This is how the machine moves the vinyl, if the rollers are not in these spots the plotter will refuse to run.
**The roller on the right side of the plotter must be inside the rightmost blue area, the plotter will refuse to run if it is in any other region.
* '''The plotter will only cut in between the rollers, make sure they are placed bigger than your cut.'''
* Ideally the rollers should be as close as possible to make it less likely for the vinyl to fold up.
[[File:positionroller.jpg]]

===Lock Vinyl===
* Flip the lever in the back up (locked)
* The plotter should prompt you "ROLL 1 PRESS ENTER"
** Roll 1 will automatically calibrate itself to the very front edge of the vinyl
** Roll 2 will not look for the edge, but will accept the place you have locked it in as the origin
*If the plotter screen does not read "ROLL 1 PRESS ENTER", use the arrows on the plotter to cycle through the options until it displays the correct message.
* Press enter
* The head will move around, check roller locations, and then go to home.
**(NOTE: If you do not select the correct message, the plotter may spit out the vinyl in the tray, if this happens, hard-reset the plotter by using the power switch on the left side of the device. Aim for it to not perform this action next time, so as to prevent excessive power-cycling.)
* Once locked and homed do not manually move things! From here on, use the keypad for movement.
[[File:leverup.jpg]]
===Position Head===
* Move head with keypad to desired origin
** Your desired origin will be at the bottom right corner of the vinyl you will cut out.
* Press Origin
* This will set the home to wherever on the vinyl you've moved the head to.
** This is handy for avoiding other peoples cuts
===Cut===
* You're ready to cut!
* In your print settings make sure you cut a box around the print (aka weeding)
** NOTE: This option is the default option in the Inkscape software.
* Print!
** NOTE: Specific printing insturctions are below in the [[Graphtec_Vinyl_Cutter#Using_InkCut_and_Inkscape|Using Inkscape and Inkcut]] section.

After your design is printed, use the letter opener to remove it from the end of the roll. Please do not use a knife or open blade to do this as that can damage the machine.

[[File:Vinyl_remove_640.jpg]]

===Remove Weeding===
Weeding is the process of removing the unwanted portions of vinyl from the backing before transferring your design. It can be a tedious and time-consuming process.
[[File:weeding_640.jpg]]
* Always remove your print from the machine before weeding.
** Please do not do the weeding on the machine like this:
** [[File:removeweeding.jpg]]
** Note that unused pieces of vinyl can be used only if they are wider than 12 inches. Plan your projects so that several smaller designs can be cut at the same time to avoid wasting material.
* With an Exacto knife (or other small, sharp tool) carefully pull out the weeding.
* Even with a properly adjusted plotter, a few things will stick. Don't expect the weeding to pull out perfectly without any finesse and mash the plotter knife down to compensate. Just go slow, and use your knife to either hold down pieces or cut stuck edges. Tweezers can also help to separate and remove small pieces.

===Pick up design with transfer tape===
* Get some transfer tape and place it over the design
[[File:transfertape.jpg]]
[[File:transfer_tape_640.jpg]]
* With the design face-down, gently peel the backing away. Some pieces may stick to the backing instead of to the transfer tape -- go slowly and use the point of an X-acto knife to gently press them into place before proceeding.

[[File:peel_backing_640.jpg]]

===Clean Target Surface===
* Remove old, inadequate labels made by people without awesome vinyl cutters
* Clean surface
[[File:removeold.jpg]]
===Spray Transfer Solution===
* Put a light misting of transfer solution on either the target object or your design
** Lighter will stick faster
** More will give you more time to place your design, but it can be hard to keep the design in place once you want it to stay
** I prefer to hold the design at a distance and give it a light misting
[[File:transfersolution.jpg]]
===Place Design===
* Place your design on the target surface.
* With the solution it should be able to slide around easily
* When in its final location, use a squeegee to work out some of the transfer solution. Be sure to work from the inside out.
** On small things like this text, it's not going to do a lot
** On big things it's easy to leave pockets of transfer solution under the vinyl. Be more diligent with larger designs.
[[File:placedesign.jpg]]
===Let Dry Some===
* Ugh. I hate this part.
* You don't have to let it dry all the way.
* The vinyl needs to sit for a bit to adhere to the target surface. If you're impatient like me, you can spray a little transfer solution onto the transfer tape to wetten it and weaken its hold on the vinyl.

===Peel off Transfer Tape===
* Test a corner, then carefully peel off the transfer tape.
* Depending on how early you peel off the transfer tape you might be able to move things around a bit. Fix any small things like punctuation, the dots above i's, etc.
===Finished!===
* Admire your work and don't touch it for awhile so it can dry completely.
[[File:finisheddesign.jpg]]

=Setting up Linux=
* Hook up to USB
* Install printer in CUPS
* Choose Raw Queue as driver
* Maker sure plotter is in HG-GL mode
** Hit pause
** Page Next until you see command
** Enter
** Arrow over to HG-GL
* The best way to plot in Linux is with the Inkscape plugin, InkCut
* Install inkscape
* Download InkCut here:
http://inkcut.sourceforge.net/
<pre>
mv InkCut-1.0.tar.gz ~/.config/inkscape/extensions/
cd ~/.config/inkscape/extensions/
tar -xf InkCut-1.0.tar.gz
</pre>
* Configure InkCut
** Extensions -> Cutter / Plotter -> InkCut v1.0
** Properties
** Interface: Printer
** Name: Graphtec_CE5000
** Test Connection
** You should hear the fans spin up and the vinyl cutter will cut a small box.
** Save
=Using VinylMaster= We now use VinylMaster to send cuts to the printer
*There are video tutorials below to learn to design and prepare file in Vinyl Master or you can follow these steps to import an image that is already a vector and ready to cut:
**Click File>New to create a new document. Then click the gear icon in the toolbar across the top to access settings. Here, you will want ***to set the dimensions of your document.
**Click file>import and browse for you file and import. Place your image within document boundaries.
**Click the blade tool in the toolbar across the top. It looks like a cylinder with a blade protruding from bottom.This will open the CutFile manager where you can see a preview of how your file will be placed on the vinyl and allow you to adjust vinyl cutter settings.
**Make sure the settings on the plotter/cutter screen are correct as outlined above. Pressure should not be above 15-17.
**You can click test area in the vinyl cutter manager to ensure your cut won't be over the boundaries of cutter
**when ready, click Cut Now

==Vinyl Master Tutorials==
You may find these tutorials useful for learning how to use Inkscape:
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXXU4BjNTeM Trace Bitmapping or vectorizing in Vinyl Master Cut]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOFNtqeUCvg Working With Vinyl Master Cut]

=Troubleshooting=
*If your cuts do not go deep enough, then it is possible the cutter thinks it is in PEN mode. Press the '''Cond.''' key on the cutter and then choose the 09U cutter by using the arrow keys and enter.
*You may also want to try tightening the blade, by turning the top of the blade while holding the bottom tightly
* If the cutter feeds a seemingly endless amount of vinyl before finally beginning to cut, it may have ended up in "Center Origin" mode.
** In order to work properly, the cutter must be in "L.L" or Lower Left cutting mode.
** To fix this, press, "Pause", then press "Next" until "Command" is selected. Hit "Enter," and select "HP-GL". Hit enter, and select "L.L" mode.
*When all else fails - RTFM - http://www.graphtecamerica.com/docs/User_Manuals/CutPlot_UM/CE5000-UM-152-01.pdf

Equipment

2019-01-13T03:02:41Z

Pdgossen: /* Wood Shop */

This page is meant to be a master list for all of the equipment at LVL1. Add a wiki page link here and follow it to fill out the details. QR Code images and general information are generated with a simple MediaWiki template. Copy, paste and edit the following code into a new wiki page.

<code><nowiki>
{{Template:Equipment
|owner=Owner of Loaner of equipment
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Make/Model of equipment
|arrived=When this thing first showed up
|doesitwork=Does this work or not
|contact=person to contact
|where=where is it
|picture=wiki URL
}}
</nowiki></code>

=== LVL1 Equipment Catalog ===
{{columns-start}}

== Jewelry Station ==
* [[Dremel Drill Press]]
* [[Dapping Block]]
* [[9 pc. Punch & Die Set]]
* [[NaturalLight Table Lamp]]
* [[Bernzomatic Propane Torch]]
* [[Blazer Micro Torch]]
* [[CDC DIGI Micro Torch]]
* [[Smith Little Torch]]
* [[Dremel 4000/4200 Rotary Tool Kit]]
* [[Jewelry Consumables]]

== Safety ==
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[First Aid Kit]]

== Printing ==
* [[Graphtec Vinyl Cutter]]
* [[HP 2600n Color LaserJet]]
* [[Purple Cows Laminator]]
* [[Brother Label Maker]]
* [[HP DesignJet 650C]]
* [[HP DesignJet 800]]
* [[Xerox Workcentre M20i]]

==3D Printing==
* [[Murphy|'Murphy' Lulzbot TAZ 3.1 3D Printer]]
* [[ED-209|ED-209 Lulzbot TAZ 3.1 3D Printer]] (missing)
* [[Prusa 3D printers|Daedalus and Sisyphus]] Prusa 3D printers

== Audio / Video ==
* [[Oculus LVL1 2018]] - photostream camera
* [[InfocusProjector]] - The secondary projector in the main room
* [[Panasonic VCR]]
* [[Western Safety Megaphone]]
* [[Kidney Sound Table]]

=== Virtual Reality ===
* [[Oculus Rifts]]
* [[Kinect]]

=== Items on Load from Richard ===
The following items appear to no longer be at the space are indicated as on loan by Richard. They may just not be on loan anymore:
* [[Onkyo AV Receiver]]
* [[KLH Audio Speakers]]
* [[Boss Digital Reverb Pedal]]
* [[Boss Digital Delay Pedal]]
* [[Boss Dr. Rhythm Machine]]
* [[Zoom Handy Recorder H2]]
* [[Marshall MG Series 15CD Amplifier]]

== Electronics Equipment ==
* Oscilloscopes
** [[Tektronix 2432 Digital Oscilloscope]]
** [[LeCroy Oscilloscope]]
** [[BK Dual Time Base Oscillosope]] - UNKNOWN
** [[Hitachi Oscilloscope]] - UNKNOWN
* Meters
** [[Fluke Digital Multimeter 8000A]] - UNKNOWN
** [[Fluke 37 Multimeter]]
** [[Sencore Capacitor Inductor Analyzer]]
* Power Supplies
** [[Leader DC Tracking Power Supply]] - UNKNOWN
** [[Generic Benchtop PSU]]
* Signal Generators
** [[Heathkit Sine-Square Audio Generator]] - UNKNOWN
* Soldering Equipment
** [[Equipment/HakkoFX888D]]
** [[APS GF-B Reflow Oven]]

== Wood Shop ==
* [[Dust Collection]]
* [[Table Saw Jet JTAS-10DX]]
* [[Planer Northwood 15 inch]]
* [[Jointer Jet JJ-6CSDX]]
* [[Jet wood lathe]]
* [[Dewalt Sliding Compound Miter Saw]]
* [[Dremel 4000]]
* [[Ridgid Table Saw]]- No longer in service
* [[Dewalt Drill]]
* [[Dewalt Impact Driver]]
* [[Dewalt Sawzall]]
* [[Dewalt Skill Saw]]
* [[Dewalt Work Light]]
* [[Dewalt Horizontal Grinder]]
* [[Craftsmen Work Light]] - UNKNOWN
* [[ShopBot]]
* [[Shapeoko2]]
* [[Drill Press]]- No longer in service
* [[Dremel 300]]
* [[Drill bit set]]
* [[Dremel Drill Press]]
* [[Rigid WetDry Vac]]
* [[Craftsman 10 inch Tablesaw]]- No longer in service
* [[Craftsman 13 inch Scrollsaw]]
* [[Grizzly Belt Sander]]
* [[DeWalt Compound Miter Saw]]
* [[Buffalo Wood Lathe]]- No longer in service
* [[Hitachi Cordless Driver Drill]]
* [[Hitachi Hammer Drill]]
* [[Ryobi Mini Power Saw]]
* [[Ryobi Power Drill]]
* [[Ryobi Sawzaw]]
* [[Ryobi Battery Charger]]
* [[Ryobi Battery (x1)]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4V Cordless Saw]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4 Cordless Drill #1]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4 Cordless Drill #2]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4 Batteries (x3)]]
* [[Black & Decker Battery Charger]]
* [[Dewalt Battery Charger]]
* [[Black & Decker Corded Drill]]
* [[Rotozip Rotary Tool]]
* [[Dremel 200 Series]]
* [[Dremel MultiPro]]
* [[Dremel Flex Shaft Extender]]
* [[Dremel Multi Purpose/Bench Press Stand ]]
* [[JET Dust Collection System ]]
* [[3 Phase Planer ]]- No longer in service
* [[220v Joiner ]]- No longer in service

== Metal Shop ==
* [[Sheet Metal/Shear/Break/Roller]]
* [[Heavy Duty Bandsaw]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Socket Wrench ]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Hammer ]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Impact Wrench ]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Rotary Tool]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Paint Sprayer ]]
* [[MIG Welder Lincoln HD175 ]]
* [[Bridgeport Mill]]
* [[Toolkraft Drill Press]]
* [[Powermate Pneumatic Nail Gun]]
* [[Pneumatic Tire Pressure Gauge and Hose]]
* [[120 Volt 100 Amp Welder ]]
* [[Burnout Oven]]
* [[Casting Centrifuge]]
* [[Hot wax heating unit]]
* [[Plaster investment shaker]]
* [[Ultrasonic Cleaner]]
* [[oxy acetalyne torch heads]]

== Tools ==
* [[Kobalt Mechanic Socket Set]]
* [[Rabbit Laser]]
* [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
* [[Zenbot 1216 CNC]] - tabletop soft-material-only high precision CNC system
* [[Gray Tool Kit]]
* [[Tool Cart]]
* [[GE Hotplate]]
* [[iFixit 54 Piece Bit Driver Kit]]
* [[iFixit 26 Piece Bit Driver Kit]]
* [[52 Piece Racheting Wrench Kit]]
* [[32 Piece Screwdriver Kit]]
* [[Sewing machine]]
* [[Vacuum pump]] - UNKNOWN
* [[ColdHeat Battery Powered Soldering Iron]]
* [[Sperry LAN TRACKER]]
* [[Kobalt 3.6V Lithium Drill]]
* [[Ryobi 4V Lithium Drill]]
* [[Unknown Lithium Drill]]
* [[4.8V Cordless Screwdriver]]
* [[Compression Tool Kit]]
* [[Conduit Pipe Cutters (x2)]]
* [[TaskForce Corded Skill Saw]]
* [[SKIL Dual Axis Rotary Laser Level]]
* [[Masonry/Boring/Forester Bit Kits]]
* [[RJ11/RJ45 Terminating Tool]]
* [[Ideal 10/100 Terminating Punch]]
* [[CenTech Fiberglass Wiring Rods]]
* [[Virtual CD Drive]]

== Sewing/Textile Station ==
* [[Sewing machine]] - No longer in service
* [[Sewing machines]] - In Service
* [[Serger]]
*[[Knitting machine]]
*[[Embroidery machine]]

== Hackersnack Area==
* [[Kitchen Fridge]]
* [[Food Microwave]]
* [[Enhanced Toaster Pastry]]
* Soda Vending Machine
* Coffee Maker
* Utensil storage

== Misc ==
* [[Bel MERIT All-In-One Instrument]] - UNKNOWN
* [[HD Tesla High Voltage Coils]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Jacob's Ladder with Enclosure]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Science Microwave]]
* [[Mr. White PC]]
* [[Guard dog]]
* [[Toms Vending Machine]]
* [[iRobot Roomba Robotic Vacuum]]
* [[Radio Teletype Machine]]
* [[Hyundai Monitor]]
* [[Toy Helicopter]]
* [[Beehive Light Show]]
* [[Star Wars Force Trainer]]
* [[Robo-Pony]]
* [[Make T-Shirts]]
* [[Peanut Butter Snickers Storage Unit]]
* [[Traffic Light]]
* [[Possum Clock]]
* [[File Server]]
* [[RFID]]
* [[Dell Blade System]]
* [[Spooky Cat with 2 LEDs]]
* [[Sheet Transport Dollies]]
{{column}}

==Educational Kits==
*[[Make Arduino Kit]]
*[[Make Electronics Kit 1 and 2]]

== Communications ==
* [[HF Transceiver]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Satelite Modem]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Icom IC-229H 2M Transceiver]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Astron RS-20A]] - UNKNOWN
* [[KeyLessEntry]] - OUTDATED

{{column}}

== Equipment Repost for Tax Purposes ==

* [[Dewalt Sliding Compound Miter Saw]]
* [[Ridgid Table Saw]]- No longer in service
* [[Dewalt Drill]]
* [[Dewalt Impact Driver]]
* [[Dewalt Sawzall]]
* [[Dewalt Skill Saw]]
* [[Dwalt Work Light]]
* [[Dwalt Horizontal Grinder]]
* [[Sheet Metal/Shear/Break/Roller]]
* [[Graphtec Vinyl Cutter]]
* [[Clive Badger|Makerbot Replicator - Clive Badger]]
* [[Johnny 5|Makerbot Replicator - Johnny 5]]
* [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
* [[Tektronix 2432 Digital Oscilloscope]]
* [[BK Dual Time Base Oscillosope]]
* [[InfocusProjector]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]] - No longer in service
* [[Oculus LVL1 Nikon]] - No longer in service
* [[Computers]]

== Large multiple QR sheets for mass printing ==

[[Equipment/QRCodes|Master List of QR Codes]]

[[Big Soldering Station Sticker Sheet]]

Dust Collector Design

2019-01-13T02:59:40Z

Pdgossen: Created page with "== Design Basis == This system follows design guidance on [http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm#index.cfm/ Bill Pentz’s dust collection website]. Most dust..."

== Design Basis ==

This system follows design guidance on [http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm#index.cfm/ Bill Pentz’s dust collection website].

Most dust collection hardware is designed to capture only larger wood chips and sawdust, but fine dust is the most dangerous to human health and most easily propagates fires. Bill Pentz's dust collection designs and recommendations deal with collecting fine dust. This system uses higher air flows, a more efficient cyclone, and finer filters than are found in most off-the-shelf dust collectors.

=== Air Flow ===
* air flow target is 850 CFM at the tool, which is enough to capture fine dust that is generated
* minimum air velocity in ducts is 4000 FPM, which is needed to move dust up vertical rises and to keep dust collecting in ducts
* blower has a 2 hp motor and 12 inch impeller
* Two Wynn Environmental 9L300NANO filters supply 600 sq.ft. filtration media. Expectation is 99.99% filtration of particle bigger than 0.5 micron diameter once filters are conditioned (meaning once a cake of fine dust is built up inside the filter).

=== Gates ===
This system will support collecting dust from one tool at a time. Gates must be installed and used to route flow to the tool that is being used and to block air flow from all other tools. Some starter design resources for gates:
* [http://www.benchmark.20m.com/articles/BlastGate/blastgatebuilding.html/ Basic manual gate from sheet stock]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zlNimxZgqw/ Simple actuators]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAMYaCIXXYU/ Arduino system to automate routing]

=== Tool Hoods ===
* Hooking a hose up to the off-the-shelf wood chip collection port on most tools is not sufficient for fine dust collection
* Installing a port that is too small restricts airflow. This creates a fire hazard by allowing dust to build up in the ducting
* Lots of designs and guidance on [http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/ducting.cfm#tool_ducting/ Bill Pentz's tool ports and hoods page]
* Hack on!

=== CNC Dust Skirt Guidance ===
* The current (Nov 2017) CNC dust skirt restricts airflow too much for safe and adequate dust collection
* minimum cross-sectional area of the skirt air channel opening must be 20 sq inches
* flex hose form the skirt to the ceiling ducts must be 6" diameter. Smaller diameter will choke flow below 4000 FPM needed to transport dust to the ceiling
* [http://www.instructables.com/id/ShopBot-Dust-Skirt/ gerg on instructables.com] has an upgraded skirt design with [http://www.instructables.com/id/Magnetic-ShopBot-Dust-Skirt/ instructions and DXF files].
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORcFKRRFWt0/ Here's a design] for the flex hose that uses a vertical rise of rigid 6” PVC pipe to clear the CNC gantry, then 6” flex hose to ducts in the ceiling. The video shows a motion test of his flex hose suspension layout.

=== Static Discharge from PVC Ducting ===
* [http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/shop/articles_221.shtml is not considered a fire hazard for small woodshops]
* but is very uncomfortable for humans and fatal to thumb drives full of Shopbot files
* [http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/ducting.cfm#static_electricity/ Bill Pentz’s static electricity section] recommends 2" aluminum tape to bleed static
* Joints in our dust collector are made by first putting a band of 2" aluminum tape around the duct, then drilling 1/2" sheet metal screws through the joint to pierce the inner duct wall and stick into the airflow. Grounding the tape and screws provides a path to bleed some static from the flowing wood dust stream.

=== Upgrade Path ===
The system has an upgrade path to support 2 tools simultaneously. This would involve installing a 5hp motor and a larger impeller available from Clear Vue Cyclones for 1800 CFM design flow. It would also require some ducting changes, starting with installing an 8" header that the 6" line branch out from.

Pdgossen: Created page with "{{Template:Equipment |owner= LVL1 |serial= 0336 |model= Northwood CT-381 |arrived= don't know |doesitwork= yes, like a champ |contact= |where= Wood Shop |picture= DSC 7246.JP..."

{{Template:Equipment
|owner= LVL1
|serial= 0336
|model= Northwood CT-381
|arrived= don't know
|doesitwork= yes, like a champ
|contact=
|where= Wood Shop
|picture= DSC 7246.JPG
}}

== Care and Maintenance ==
Don't have a manual for this exact model, but many manufacturers use the identical core hardware

This manual gives good instructions for adjusting various rollers, drives, and guards as well as a lubrication schedule and procedures
[[Media: Powermatic Planer 15 manual 1791213 man.pdf]]

This manual has instructions for replacing and adjusting the knives
[[ Media: Grizzly Planer 15 manual g0550 m.pdf]]

Equipment

2019-01-12T21:01:07Z

Pdgossen: /* Wood Shop */

This page is meant to be a master list for all of the equipment at LVL1. Add a wiki page link here and follow it to fill out the details. QR Code images and general information are generated with a simple MediaWiki template. Copy, paste and edit the following code into a new wiki page.

<code><nowiki>
{{Template:Equipment
|owner=Owner of Loaner of equipment
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Make/Model of equipment
|arrived=When this thing first showed up
|doesitwork=Does this work or not
|contact=person to contact
|where=where is it
|picture=wiki URL
}}
</nowiki></code>

=== LVL1 Equipment Catalog ===
{{columns-start}}

== Safety ==
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[First Aid Kit]]

== Printing ==
* [[Graphtec Vinyl Cutter]]
* [[Murphy|'Murphy' Lulzbot TAZ 3.1 3D Printer]]
* [[ED-209|ED-209 Lulzbot TAZ 3.1 3D Printer]] (missing)
* [[HP 2600n Color LaserJet]]
* [[Purple Cows Laminator]]
* [[Brother Label Maker]]
* [[Veruca Gloop|Makerbot - Veruca Gloop]]
* [[HP DesignJet 650C]]
* [[HP DesignJet 800]]
* [[Xerox Workcentre M20i]]

== Audio / Video ==
* [[Oculus LVL1 2018]] - photostream camera
* [[InfocusProjector]] - The secondary projector in the main room
* [[Panasonic VCR]]
* [[Western Safety Megaphone]]
* [[Kidney Sound Table]]

=== Virtual Reality ===
* [[Oculus Rifts]]
* [[Kinect]]

=== Items on Load from Richard ===
The following items appear to no longer be at the space are indicated as on loan by Richard. They may just not be on loan anymore:
* [[Onkyo AV Receiver]]
* [[KLH Audio Speakers]]
* [[Boss Digital Reverb Pedal]]
* [[Boss Digital Delay Pedal]]
* [[Boss Dr. Rhythm Machine]]
* [[Zoom Handy Recorder H2]]
* [[Marshall MG Series 15CD Amplifier]]

== Electronics Equipment ==
* Oscilloscopes
** [[Tektronix 2432 Digital Oscilloscope]]
** [[LeCroy Oscilloscope]]
** [[BK Dual Time Base Oscillosope]] - UNKNOWN
** [[Hitachi Oscilloscope]] - UNKNOWN
* Meters
** [[Fluke Digital Multimeter 8000A]] - UNKNOWN
** [[Fluke 37 Multimeter]] - UNKNOWN
* Power Supplies
** [[Leader DC Tracking Power Supply]] - UNKNOWN
** [[Generic Benchtop PSU]]
* Signal Generators
** [[Heathkit Sine-Square Audio Generator]] - UNKNOWN
* Soldering Equipment
** [[Equipment/HakkoFX888D]]
** [[APS GF-B Reflow Oven]]

== Wood Shop ==
* [[Planer Northwood 15 inch]]
* [[Jointer Jet JJ-6CSDX]]
* [[Jet wood lathe]]
* [[Dewalt Sliding Compound Miter Saw]]
* [[Dremel 4000]]
* [[Ridgid Table Saw]]- No longer in service
* [[Dewalt Drill]]
* [[Dewalt Impact Driver]]
* [[Dewalt Sawzall]]
* [[Dewalt Skill Saw]]
* [[Dewalt Work Light]]
* [[Dewalt Horizontal Grinder]]
* [[Craftsmen Work Light]] - UNKNOWN
* [[ShopBot]]
* [[Shapeoko2]]
* [[Drill Press]]- No longer in service
* [[Dremel 300]]
* [[Drill bit set]]
* [[Dremel Drill Press]]
* [[Rigid WetDry Vac]]
* [[Craftsman 10 inch Tablesaw]]- No longer in service
* [[Craftsman 13 inch Scrollsaw]]
* [[Grizzly Belt Sander]]
* [[DeWalt Compound Miter Saw]]
* [[Buffalo Wood Lathe]]- No longer in service
* [[Hitachi Cordless Driver Drill]]
* [[Hitachi Hammer Drill]]
* [[Ryobi Mini Power Saw]]
* [[Ryobi Power Drill]]
* [[Ryobi Sawzaw]]
* [[Ryobi Battery Charger]]
* [[Ryobi Battery (x1)]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4V Cordless Saw]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4 Cordless Drill #1]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4 Cordless Drill #2]]
* [[Black & Decker 14.4 Batteries (x3)]]
* [[Black & Decker Battery Charger]]
* [[Dewalt Battery Charger]]
* [[Black & Decker Corded Drill]]
* [[Rotozip Rotary Tool]]
* [[Dremel 200 Series]]
* [[Dremel MultiPro]]
* [[Dremel Flex Shaft Extender]]
* [[Dremel Multi Purpose/Bench Press Stand ]]
* [[JET Dust Collection System ]]
* [[3 Phase Planer ]]- No longer in service
* [[220v Joiner ]]- No longer in service

== Metal Shop ==
* [[Sheet Metal/Shear/Break/Roller]]
* [[Lincoln HD175 MIG Welder]]
* [[Toolkraft Drill Press]]
* [[Heavy Duty Bandsaw]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Socket Wrench ]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Hammer ]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Impact Wrench ]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Rotary Tool]]
* [[Husky Pneumatic Paint Sprayer ]]
* [[Powermate Pneumatic Nail Gun]]
* [[Pneumatic Tire Pressure Gauge and Hose]]
* [[120 Volt 100 Amp Welder ]]
* [[Burnout Oven]]
* [[Casting Centrifuge]]
* [[Hot wax heating unit]]
* [[Plaster investment shaker]]
* [[Ultrasonic Cleaner]]
* [[oxy acetalyne torch heads]]
* [[Bridgeport Mill]]

== Tools ==
* [[Kobalt Mechanic Socket Set]]
* [[Rabbit Laser]]
* [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
* [[Zenbot 1216 CNC]] - tabletop soft-material-only high precision CNC system
* [[Gray Tool Kit]]
* [[Tool Cart]]
* [[GE Hotplate]]
* [[iFixit 54 Piece Bit Driver Kit]]
* [[iFixit 26 Piece Bit Driver Kit]]
* [[52 Piece Racheting Wrench Kit]]
* [[32 Piece Screwdriver Kit]]
* [[Sewing machine]]
* [[Vacuum pump]] - UNKNOWN
* [[ColdHeat Battery Powered Soldering Iron]]
* [[Sperry LAN TRACKER]]
* [[Kobalt 3.6V Lithium Drill]]
* [[Ryobi 4V Lithium Drill]]
* [[Unknown Lithium Drill]]
* [[4.8V Cordless Screwdriver]]
* [[Compression Tool Kit]]
* [[Conduit Pipe Cutters (x2)]]
* [[TaskForce Corded Skill Saw]]
* [[SKIL Dual Axis Rotary Laser Level]]
* [[Masonry/Boring/Forester Bit Kits]]
* [[RJ11/RJ45 Terminating Tool]]
* [[Ideal 10/100 Terminating Punch]]
* [[CenTech Fiberglass Wiring Rods]]
* [[Virtual CD Drive]]

== Sewing/Textile Station ==
* [[Sewing machine]] - No longer in service
* [[Sewing machines]] - In Service
* [[Serger]]
*[[Knitting machine]]
*[[Embroidery machine]]

== Break Room ==
* [[Melitta Coffee Maker]]
* [[Kitchen Fridge]]
* [[Soda Fridge]]
* [[Food Microwave]]
* [[Kegerator]]
* [[Enhanced Toaster Pastry]]
== Misc ==
* [[Sencore Capacitor Inductor Analyzer]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Bel MERIT All-In-One Instrument]] - UNKNOWN
* [[HD Tesla High Voltage Coils]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Jacob's Ladder with Enclosure]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Science Microwave]]
* [[Mr. White PC]]
* [[Guard dog]]
* [[Toms Vending Machine]]
* [[iRobot Roomba Robotic Vacuum]]
* [[Radio Teletype Machine]]
* [[Hyundai Monitor]]
* [[Toy Helicopter]]
* [[Beehive Light Show]]
* [[Star Wars Force Trainer]]
* [[Robo-Pony]]
* [[Make T-Shirts]]
* [[Peanut Butter Snickers Storage Unit]]
* [[Traffic Light]]
* [[Possum Clock]]
* [[File Server]]
* [[RFID]]
* [[Dell Blade System]]
* [[Spooky Cat with 2 LEDs]]
* [[Sheet Transport Dollies]]
{{column}}

==Educational Kits==
*[[Make Arduino Kit]]
*[[Make Electronics Kit 1 and 2]]

== LVL1 Moving ==
* [[Moving Toe Tags]]

== Communications ==
* [[HF Transceiver]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Satelite Modem]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Icom IC-229H 2M Transceiver]] - UNKNOWN
* [[Astron RS-20A]] - UNKNOWN
* [[KeyLessEntry]] - OUTDATED

{{column}}

== Equipment Repost for Tax Purposes ==

* [[Dewalt Sliding Compound Miter Saw]]
* [[Ridgid Table Saw]]- No longer in service
* [[Dewalt Drill]]
* [[Dewalt Impact Driver]]
* [[Dewalt Sawzall]]
* [[Dewalt Skill Saw]]
* [[Dwalt Work Light]]
* [[Dwalt Horizontal Grinder]]
* [[Sheet Metal/Shear/Break/Roller]]
* [[Graphtec Vinyl Cutter]]
* [[Clive Badger|Makerbot Replicator - Clive Badger]]
* [[Johnny 5|Makerbot Replicator - Johnny 5]]
* [[Full Spectrum Laser]]
* [[Tektronix 2432 Digital Oscilloscope]]
* [[BK Dual Time Base Oscillosope]]
* [[InfocusProjector]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]] - No longer in service
* [[Oculus LVL1 Nikon]] - No longer in service
* [[Computers]]

== Large multiple QR sheets for mass printing ==

[[Equipment/QRCodes|Master List of QR Codes]]

[[Big Soldering Station Sticker Sheet]]

2016-03-03T23:26:55Z

Pdgossen:

''By: Paul D. Gossen, Gossen Restoration''

Here's a fast and simple procedure for removing rusty nails from old wood without scarring the wood surface. I use it to clean up salvaged old growth timbers and to remove nails from antique chairs that I'm repairing.

Once you are set up, it takes under a minute to loosen a nail enough to pull it out with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. I've used this procedure for big 4" common nails to small finishing nails broken off below the surface of the wood.

When I'm taking apart antique chairs for repair, this method makes it easy to remove deeply set nails while leaving only a neat, round hole in the wood that I can fill with a dowel plug after regluing.

== What You Need ==

# A soldering iron with a flat, round tip. Nothing fancy. You want power with no temperature control. I've used a 40W Radio Shack model that you can thread tips onto. I remove the tip and use the flat, round, threaded metal end. I've also got an old 350W Weller with interchangeable tips that I can modify to any shape.
# A pair of needle nose pliers. If you are pulling small, deep nails use pliers with a fine, long tip. Vise grip pliers help for big nails.
# A curved wood chisel. Useful if you have nails broken off below the wood surface. The blade's curvature radius should match the soldering iron tip.
# A metal detector. I use a stack of powerful permanent magnets on a string.
[[File:PDG20160303_nail_gear.JPG|800px|Gear You Need]]

== Procedure For Nails Above the Surface ==

# Find the nail. Big ones by eye. Small ones with your metal detector.
# Heat the nail with the soldering iron. Time depends on the size of the nail and the power of the soldering iron. For a small finishing nail, the 40W iron may need 1 minute, the 350W gun, 15 seconds.
# Wait for the nail to cool.
# Pull out the nail with pliers. If you got it hot enough, it will just slide out.

== Procedure for Nails Below the Surface ==
If your nail is set or broken off below the surface:
# The metal detector is more important here to distinguish empty nail holes from one with a nail in it.
# Use the soldering iron to burn a neat hole into the wood until the iron touches the nail. Use the curved wood chisel to clear out charred wood if you have to.
# Once your soldering iron touches the nail, leave it there long enough to char a circle of wood around the nail deep enough for the pliers to grab the nail (1 mm can work).
# Use the chisel to clean out the char around the nail head.
# Pull out the nail with the pliers.

Pull Nails

2016-03-03T21:45:07Z

Pdgossen:

''By: Paul D. Gossen, Gossen Restoration''

Here's a fast and simple procedure for removing rusty nails from old wood without scarring the wood surface. I use it to clean up salvaged old growth timbers and remove nails from antique chairs that I'm repairing.

Once you are set up, it takes under a minute to loosen a nail enough to pull it out with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. I've used this procedures for nails as big as 4" to small finishing nails broken off below the surface of the wood.

Using this procedure when I'm taking apart antique chairs for repair, I can easily remove deeply set nails while leaving only a neat, round hole in the wood that I can fill with a dowel plug after regluing the chair.

== What You Need ==

# A soldering iron with a flat, round tip. Nothing fancy. You want power with no temperature control. I've used a 40W Radio Shack model that you can thread tips onto. I remove the tip and use the flat, round, threaded metal end. I've also got an old 350W Weller with interchangeable tips that I can modify to any shape.
# A pair of needle nose pliers. If you are pulling small, deep nails use pliers with a fine, long tip. Vise grip pliers help for big nails.
# A curved wood chisel. Useful if you have nails broken off below the wood surface. The blade's curvature radius should match the soldering iron tip.
# A metal detector. I use a stack of powerful permanent magnets on a string.
[[File:PDG20160303_nail_gear.JPG|800px|Gear You Need]]

== Procedure For Nails Above the Surface ==

# Find the nail. Big ones by eye. Small ones with your metal detector.
# Heat the nail with the soldering iron. Time depends on the size of the nail and the power of the soldering iron. For a small finishing nail, the 40W iron may need 1 minute, the 350W gun, 15 seconds.
# Wait for the nail to cool.
# Pull out the nail with pliers. If you got it hot enough, it will just slide out.

== Procedure for Nails Below the Surface ==
If your nail is set or broken off below the surface:
# The metal detector is more important here to distinguish empty nail holes from one with a nail in it.
# Use the soldering iron to burn a neat hole into the wood until the iron touches the nail. Use the curved wood chisel to clear out charred wood if you have to.
# Once your soldering iron touches the nail, leave it there long enough to char a circle of wood around the nail deep enough for the pliers to grab the nail (1 mm can work).
# Use the chisel to clean out the char around the nail head.
# Pull out the nail with the pliers.