LVL1 - User contributions [en]

Stupid Sh!t & Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026

2026-09-14T01:23:47Z

Dblank:

== <big>Stupid Crap and Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026</big> ==
=== Date/Location: Friday October 2 (Kickoff @ 7 PM) to Sunday, October 4 (Judging @ noon) at LVL1 Hackerspace (1205 E. Washington St) ===
Your challenge is to create Stupid Shit No One Needs: that is, a product or service SO LUDICROUS that no one ''has or will ever'' demand it.
=== Theme: The NeverEnding Franchise ===
Inspired by the ridiculous amount of sequels, prequels, and remakes that have been thrown our way via movies, games, and other merchandise, this year’s theme is “The NeverEnding Franchise.”

What can YOU contribute to the continual abuse of intellectual property?

What EPIC absurdity can YOU add to the long list of Things that No One Asked For?

Make ANOTHER thing from the franchise you love, and show the world that they can’t take this away from you–no matter how much the world weeps with exhaustion.

=== Rules ===
# Your project must deliberately focus on something no human being will ever need or ask for.
# Your project must somehow specifically reference a fandom, franchise, brand, etc.
# Your project must not be a product or service that already exists.
# You must not use a Giant Plagiarism Machine (i.e. A.I.) in the creation of your project.
# Your project must be constructed during the hackathon, on location, and completed by judging time (advanced planning/designing is permitted).

=== Prizes ===
TBA (1st, 2nd, 3rd)

=== Achievements ===
* ''Abomination'' - This product is egregiously unwholesome. Congratulations.
* ''Shut Up & Take My Money'' - This stupid product might actually be a huge market hit, if it were legal for you to sell it.
* ''Incomprehensible'' – I really don’t get it.
* ''Code Violation'' - This product is a ridiculous safety hazard.
* ''Worst Dressed'' – For the awesomest costume.
* ''Beautiful Friendship'' – The best “crossover” product. (Multiple franchises)
* ''Malware'' – For the best app or software.
* ''Inconvenience'' – Making life MORE difficult.
* ''Tasty'' – Best Food-adjacent stupidity
* ''Monetize all the things'' – generating income by any means necessary
* ''Social dilemma'' – Flagrant abuse of social media
* ''Child's Play'' -- Best (alleged) children's toy

=== FAQ ===
==== Is this real? ====

Yes. For fun.

==== What even is this “stupid shit”? ====

If you need inspiration, check out the entries from the original Stupid Shit Hackathon in 2017: https://stupidhackathon.com/

==== Do I have to stay the whole time? ====

Of course not, slacker. But you or a team member must be there for Kickoff (7 PM Friday) and Judging (Noon on Sunday).

==== I can’t finish a product over the weekend, that’s ridiculous! ====

Look, maybe you don’t know what hackathons are—that’s okay. We’re giving you a challenge. We don’t expect you to make something perfect. We’re expecting you to be as clever as you can.

==== How do you win? ====

The main prizes (1st, 2nd, 3rd) will be awarded by a panel of judges. The “Achievements” will be voted on by the contestants.

==== What equipment does your makerspace have? ====

Great question! We have a full woodshop, a metal shop, sewing machines, 3D printers, a laser cutter, and a fine assortment of other stuff! I suggest you stop by on one of our Tuesday Night Meetings (every Tuesday at 8 PM) to check us out!

==== How do I find teammates? ====

Well, bring your friends! But also check out our [https://groups.google.com/g/lvl1 Google Group], [https://www.facebook.com/LVL1Hackerspace Facebook page], and [https://discord.gg/bADGqFgdu Discord] to make connections. Don't forget to stop by our physical space and introduce yourself (check out our calendar here: [https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0?cid=MW41cXZqZ2E2aTR0NmxkZTM1dnE1ZGc4ZHNAZ3JvdXAuY2FsZW5kYXIuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbQ LVL1 Google Calendar]).

==== Will there be food? ====

Yes. Maybe not three square meals. Maybe not special-diet-friendly. But food will be there, yes.

==== Can I bring my kid(s)? ====

Technically, yes, but they must be under YOUR DIRECT SUPERVISION at ALL TIMES. We tend to think of ourselves as “kid-tolerant,” not “kid-friendly.” We are a space operated by and for adults, and we have no staff to accommodate the needs of children. If you can’t supervise them responsibly, we may ask you to leave.

==== Who is in charge of all of this tomfoolery? ====

Contact Danielle Blank (Danielle.Blank@lvl1.org) with any questions, complaints, or offers of help.

Stupid Sh!t & Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026

2026-09-14T01:08:06Z

Dblank: /* Achievements */

== <big>Stupid Crap and Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026</big> ==
=== Date: Friday October 2 (Kickoff @ 7 PM) to Sunday, October 4 (Judging @ noon) ===
Your challenge is to create Stupid Shit No One Needs: that is, a product or service SO LUDICROUS that no one ''has or will ever'' demand it.
=== Theme: The NeverEnding Franchise ===
Inspired by the ridiculous amount of sequels, prequels, and remakes that have been thrown our way via movies, games, and other merchandise, this year’s theme is “The NeverEnding Franchise.”

What can YOU contribute to the continual abuse of intellectual property?

What EPIC absurdity can YOU add to the long list of Things that No One Asked For?

Make ANOTHER thing from the franchise you love, and show the world that they can’t take this away from you–no matter how much the world weeps with exhaustion.

=== Rules ===
# Your project must deliberately focus on something no human being will ever need or ask for.
# Your project must somehow specifically reference a fandom, franchise, brand, etc.
# Your project must not be a product or service that already exists.
# You must not use a Giant Plagiarism Machine (i.e. A.I.) in the creation of your project.
# Your project must be constructed during the hackathon and completed by judging time (advanced planning/designing is permitted).

=== Prizes ===
TBA (1st, 2nd, 3rd)

=== Achievements ===
* ''Abomination'' - This product is egregiously unwholesome. Congratulations.
* ''Shut Up & Take My Money'' - This stupid product might actually be a huge market hit, if it were legal for you to sell it.
* ''Incomprehensible'' – I really don’t get it.
* ''Code Violation'' - This product is a ridiculous safety hazard.
* ''Worst Dressed'' – For the awesomest costume.
* ''Beautiful Friendship'' – The best “crossover” product. (Multiple franchises)
* ''Malware'' – For the best app or software.
* ''Inconvenience'' – Making life MORE difficult.
* ''Tasty'' – Best Food-adjacent stupidity
* ''Monetize all the things'' – generating income by any means necessary
* ''Social dilemma'' – Flagrant abuse of social media
* ''Child's Play'' -- Best (alleged) children's toy

=== FAQ ===
'''Is this real?'''

Yes. For fun.

'''What even is this “stupid shit”?'''

If you need inspiration, check out the entries from the original Stupid Shit Hackathon in 2017: https://stupidhackathon.com/

'''Do I have to stay the whole time?'''

Of course not, slacker. But you or a team member must be there for Kickoff (7 PM Friday) and Judging (Noon on Sunday).

'''I can’t finish a product over the weekend, that’s ridiculous!'''

Look, maybe you don’t know what hackathons are—that’s okay. We’re giving you a challenge. We don’t expect you to make something perfect. We’re expecting you to be as clever as you can.

'''How do you win?'''

The main prizes (1st, 2nd, 3rd) will be awarded by a panel of judges. The “Achievements” will be voted on by the contestants.

'''What equipment does your makerspace have?'''

Great question! We have a full woodshop, a metal shop, sewing machines, 3D printers, a laser cutter, and a fine assortment of other stuff! I suggest you stop by on one of our Tuesday Night Meetings (every Tuesday at 8 PM) to check us out!

'''How do I find teammates?'''

Well, bring your friends! But also check out our Google Group, Facebook page, and Discord to make connections. Don't forget to stop by our physical space and introduce yourself (check out our calendar here: [https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0?cid=MW41cXZqZ2E2aTR0NmxkZTM1dnE1ZGc4ZHNAZ3JvdXAuY2FsZW5kYXIuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbQ LVL1 Google Calendar]).

'''Will there be food?'''

Yes. Maybe not three square meals. Maybe not special-diet-friendly. But food will be there, yes.

'''Can I bring my kid(s)?'''

Technically, yes, but they must be under YOUR DIRECT SUPERVISION at ALL TIMES. We tend to think of ourselves as “kid-tolerant,” not “kid-friendly.” We are a space operated by and for adults, and we have no staff to accommodate the needs of children. If you can’t supervise them responsibly, we may ask you to leave.

'''Who is in charge of all of this tomfoolery?'''

Contact Danielle Blank (Danielle.Blank@lvl1.org) with any questions, complaints, or offers of help.

Stupid Sh!t & Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026

2026-09-12T01:12:20Z

Dblank: /* Rules */

== <big>Stupid Crap and Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026</big> ==
=== Date: Friday October 2 (Kickoff @ 7 PM) to Sunday, October 4 (Judging @ noon) ===
Your challenge is to create Stupid Shit No One Needs: that is, a product or service SO LUDICROUS that no one ''has or will ever'' demand it.
=== Theme: The NeverEnding Franchise ===
Inspired by the ridiculous amount of sequels, prequels, and remakes that have been thrown our way via movies, games, and other merchandise, this year’s theme is “The NeverEnding Franchise.”

What can YOU contribute to the continual abuse of intellectual property?

What EPIC absurdity can YOU add to the long list of Things that No One Asked For?

Make ANOTHER thing from the franchise you love, and show the world that they can’t take this away from you–no matter how much the world weeps with exhaustion.

=== Rules ===
# Your project must deliberately focus on something no human being will ever need or ask for.
# Your project must somehow specifically reference a fandom, franchise, brand, etc.
# Your project must not be a product or service that already exists.
# You must not use a Giant Plagiarism Machine (i.e. A.I.) in the creation of your project.
# Your project must be constructed during the hackathon and completed by judging time (advanced planning/designing is permitted).

=== Prizes ===
TBA (1st, 2nd, 3rd)

=== Achievements ===
* ''Abomination'' - This product is egregiously unwholesome. Congratulations.
* ''Shut Up & Take My Money'' - This stupid product might actually be a huge market hit, if it were legal for you to sell it.
* ''Incomprehensible'' – I really don’t get it.
* ''Code Violation'' - This product is a ridiculous safety hazard.
* ''Worst Dressed'' – For the awesomest costume.
* ''Beautiful Friendship'' – The best “crossover” product. (Multiple franchises)
* ''Malware'' – For the best app or software.
* ''Inconvenience'' – Making life MORE difficult.
* ''Tasty'' – Best Food-adjacent stupidity
* ''Monetize all the things'' – generating income by any means necessary
* ''Social dilemma'' – Flagrant abuse of social media
* ''Butlerian Jihad'' – Flagrant abuse of A.I.
* ''Child's Play'' -- Best (alleged) children's toy

=== FAQ ===
'''Is this real?'''

Yes. For fun.

'''What even is this “stupid shit”?'''

If you need inspiration, check out the entries from the original Stupid Shit Hackathon in 2017: https://stupidhackathon.com/

'''Do I have to stay the whole time?'''

Of course not, slacker. But you or a team member must be there for Kickoff (7 PM Friday) and Judging (Noon on Sunday).

'''I can’t finish a product over the weekend, that’s ridiculous!'''

Look, maybe you don’t know what hackathons are—that’s okay. We’re giving you a challenge. We don’t expect you to make something perfect. We’re expecting you to be as clever as you can.

'''How do you win?'''

The main prizes (1st, 2nd, 3rd) will be awarded by a panel of judges. The “Achievements” will be voted on by the contestants.

'''What equipment does your makerspace have?'''

Great question! We have a full woodshop, a metal shop, sewing machines, 3D printers, a laser cutter, and a fine assortment of other stuff! I suggest you stop by on one of our Tuesday Night Meetings (every Tuesday at 8 PM) to check us out!

'''How do I find teammates?'''

Well, bring your friends! But also check out our Google Group, Facebook page, and Discord to make connections. Don't forget to stop by our physical space and introduce yourself (check out our calendar here: [https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0?cid=MW41cXZqZ2E2aTR0NmxkZTM1dnE1ZGc4ZHNAZ3JvdXAuY2FsZW5kYXIuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbQ LVL1 Google Calendar]).

'''Will there be food?'''

Yes. Maybe not three square meals. Maybe not special-diet-friendly. But food will be there, yes.

'''Can I bring my kid(s)?'''

Technically, yes, but they must be under YOUR DIRECT SUPERVISION at ALL TIMES. We tend to think of ourselves as “kid-tolerant,” not “kid-friendly.” We are a space operated by and for adults, and we have no staff to accommodate the needs of children. If you can’t supervise them responsibly, we may ask you to leave.

'''Who is in charge of all of this tomfoolery?'''

Contact Danielle Blank (Danielle.Blank@lvl1.org) with any questions, complaints, or offers of help.

Stupid Sh!t & Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026

2026-08-25T02:07:59Z

Dblank: /* Achievements */

== <big>Stupid Crap and Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026</big> ==
=== Date: Friday October 2 (Kickoff @ 7 PM) to Sunday, October 4 (Judging @ noon) ===
Your challenge is to create Stupid Shit No One Needs: that is, a product or service SO LUDICROUS that no one ''has or will ever'' demand it.
=== Theme: The NeverEnding Franchise ===
Inspired by the ridiculous amount of sequels, prequels, and remakes that have been thrown our way via movies, games, and other merchandise, this year’s theme is “The NeverEnding Franchise.”

What can YOU contribute to the continual abuse of intellectual property?

What EPIC absurdity can YOU add to the long list of Things that No One Asked For?

Make ANOTHER thing from the franchise you love, and show the world that they can’t take this away from you–no matter how much the world weeps with exhaustion.

=== Rules ===
# Your project must deliberately focus on something no human being will ever need or ask for.
# Your project must somehow specifically reference a fandom, franchise, brand, etc.
# Your project must not be a product or service that already exists.
# Your project must be constructed during the hackathon and completed by judging time (advanced planning/designing is permitted).

=== Prizes ===
TBA (1st, 2nd, 3rd)

=== Achievements ===
* ''Abomination'' - This product is egregiously unwholesome. Congratulations.
* ''Shut Up & Take My Money'' - This stupid product might actually be a huge market hit, if it were legal for you to sell it.
* ''Incomprehensible'' – I really don’t get it.
* ''Code Violation'' - This product is a ridiculous safety hazard.
* ''Worst Dressed'' – For the awesomest costume.
* ''Beautiful Friendship'' – The best “crossover” product. (Multiple franchises)
* ''Malware'' – For the best app or software.
* ''Inconvenience'' – Making life MORE difficult.
* ''Tasty'' – Best Food-adjacent stupidity
* ''Monetize all the things'' – generating income by any means necessary
* ''Social dilemma'' – Flagrant abuse of social media
* ''Butlerian Jihad'' – Flagrant abuse of A.I.
* ''Child's Play'' -- Best (alleged) children's toy

=== FAQ ===
'''Is this real?'''

Yes. For fun.

'''What even is this “stupid shit”?'''

If you need inspiration, check out the entries from the original Stupid Shit Hackathon in 2017: https://stupidhackathon.com/

'''Do I have to stay the whole time?'''

Of course not, slacker. But you or a team member must be there for Kickoff (7 PM Friday) and Judging (Noon on Sunday).

'''I can’t finish a product over the weekend, that’s ridiculous!'''

Look, maybe you don’t know what hackathons are—that’s okay. We’re giving you a challenge. We don’t expect you to make something perfect. We’re expecting you to be as clever as you can.

'''How do you win?'''

The main prizes (1st, 2nd, 3rd) will be awarded by a panel of judges. The “Achievements” will be voted on by the contestants.

'''What equipment does your makerspace have?'''

Great question! We have a full woodshop, a metal shop, sewing machines, 3D printers, a laser cutter, and a fine assortment of other stuff! I suggest you stop by on one of our Tuesday Night Meetings (every Tuesday at 8 PM) to check us out!

'''How do I find teammates?'''

Well, bring your friends! But also check out our Google Group, Facebook page, and Discord to make connections. Don't forget to stop by our physical space and introduce yourself (check out our calendar here: [https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0?cid=MW41cXZqZ2E2aTR0NmxkZTM1dnE1ZGc4ZHNAZ3JvdXAuY2FsZW5kYXIuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbQ LVL1 Google Calendar]).

'''Will there be food?'''

Yes. Maybe not three square meals. Maybe not special-diet-friendly. But food will be there, yes.

'''Can I bring my kid(s)?'''

Technically, yes, but they must be under YOUR DIRECT SUPERVISION at ALL TIMES. We tend to think of ourselves as “kid-tolerant,” not “kid-friendly.” We are a space operated by and for adults, and we have no staff to accommodate the needs of children. If you can’t supervise them responsibly, we may ask you to leave.

'''Who is in charge of all of this tomfoolery?'''

Contact Danielle Blank (Danielle.Blank@lvl1.org) with any questions, complaints, or offers of help.

Stupid Sh!t & Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026

2026-08-25T02:05:41Z

Dblank: /* FAQ */

== <big>Stupid Crap and Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026</big> ==
=== Date: Friday October 2 (Kickoff @ 7 PM) to Sunday, October 4 (Judging @ noon) ===
Your challenge is to create Stupid Shit No One Needs: that is, a product or service SO LUDICROUS that no one ''has or will ever'' demand it.
=== Theme: The NeverEnding Franchise ===
Inspired by the ridiculous amount of sequels, prequels, and remakes that have been thrown our way via movies, games, and other merchandise, this year’s theme is “The NeverEnding Franchise.”

What can YOU contribute to the continual abuse of intellectual property?

What EPIC absurdity can YOU add to the long list of Things that No One Asked For?

Make ANOTHER thing from the franchise you love, and show the world that they can’t take this away from you–no matter how much the world weeps with exhaustion.

=== Rules ===
# Your project must deliberately focus on something no human being will ever need or ask for.
# Your project must somehow specifically reference a fandom, franchise, brand, etc.
# Your project must not be a product or service that already exists.
# Your project must be constructed during the hackathon and completed by judging time (advanced planning/designing is permitted).

=== Prizes ===
TBA (1st, 2nd, 3rd)

=== Achievements ===
* ''Abomination'' - This product is egregiously unwholesome. Congratulations.
* ''Shut Up & Take My Money'' - This stupid product might actually be a huge market hit, if it were legal for you to sell it.
* ''Incomprehensible'' – I really don’t get it.
* ''Code Violation'' - This product is a ridiculous safety hazard.
* ''Worst Dressed'' – For the awesomest costume.
* ''Beautiful Friendship'' – The best “crossover” product. (Multiple franchises)
* ''Malware'' – For the best app or software.
* ''Inconvenience'' – Making life MORE difficult.
* ''Tasty'' – Best Food-adjacent stupidity
* ''Monetize all the things'' – generating income by any means necessary
* ''Social dilemma'' – Flagrant abuse of social media
* ''Butlerian Jihad'' – Flagrant abuse of A.I.

=== FAQ ===
'''Is this real?'''

Yes. For fun.

'''What even is this “stupid shit”?'''

If you need inspiration, check out the entries from the original Stupid Shit Hackathon in 2017: https://stupidhackathon.com/

'''Do I have to stay the whole time?'''

Of course not, slacker. But you or a team member must be there for Kickoff (7 PM Friday) and Judging (Noon on Sunday).

'''I can’t finish a product over the weekend, that’s ridiculous!'''

Look, maybe you don’t know what hackathons are—that’s okay. We’re giving you a challenge. We don’t expect you to make something perfect. We’re expecting you to be as clever as you can.

'''How do you win?'''

The main prizes (1st, 2nd, 3rd) will be awarded by a panel of judges. The “Achievements” will be voted on by the contestants.

'''What equipment does your makerspace have?'''

Great question! We have a full woodshop, a metal shop, sewing machines, 3D printers, a laser cutter, and a fine assortment of other stuff! I suggest you stop by on one of our Tuesday Night Meetings (every Tuesday at 8 PM) to check us out!

'''How do I find teammates?'''

Well, bring your friends! But also check out our Google Group, Facebook page, and Discord to make connections. Don't forget to stop by our physical space and introduce yourself (check out our calendar here: [https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0?cid=MW41cXZqZ2E2aTR0NmxkZTM1dnE1ZGc4ZHNAZ3JvdXAuY2FsZW5kYXIuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbQ LVL1 Google Calendar]).

'''Will there be food?'''

Yes. Maybe not three square meals. Maybe not special-diet-friendly. But food will be there, yes.

'''Can I bring my kid(s)?'''

Technically, yes, but they must be under YOUR DIRECT SUPERVISION at ALL TIMES. We tend to think of ourselves as “kid-tolerant,” not “kid-friendly.” We are a space operated by and for adults, and we have no staff to accommodate the needs of children. If you can’t supervise them responsibly, we may ask you to leave.

'''Who is in charge of all of this tomfoolery?'''

Contact Danielle Blank (Danielle.Blank@lvl1.org) with any questions, complaints, or offers of help.

Stupid Sh!t & Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026

2026-08-18T23:43:27Z

Dblank: Created page with "== <big>Stupid Crap and Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026</big> == === Date: Friday October 2 (Kickoff @ 7 PM) to Sunday, October 4 (Judging @ noon) === Your challenge is to create Stupid Shit No One Needs: that is, a product or service SO LUDICROUS that no one ''has or will ever'' demand it. === Theme: The NeverEnding Franchise === Inspired by the ridiculous amount of sequels, prequels, and remakes that have been thrown our way via movies, games, and other merchandise, thi..."

== <big>Stupid Crap and Terrible Ideas Hackathon 2026</big> ==
=== Date: Friday October 2 (Kickoff @ 7 PM) to Sunday, October 4 (Judging @ noon) ===
Your challenge is to create Stupid Shit No One Needs: that is, a product or service SO LUDICROUS that no one ''has or will ever'' demand it.
=== Theme: The NeverEnding Franchise ===
Inspired by the ridiculous amount of sequels, prequels, and remakes that have been thrown our way via movies, games, and other merchandise, this year’s theme is “The NeverEnding Franchise.”

What can YOU contribute to the continual abuse of intellectual property?

What EPIC absurdity can YOU add to the long list of Things that No One Asked For?

Make ANOTHER thing from the franchise you love, and show the world that they can’t take this away from you–no matter how much the world weeps with exhaustion.

=== Rules ===
# Your project must deliberately focus on something no human being will ever need or ask for.
# Your project must somehow specifically reference a fandom, franchise, brand, etc.
# Your project must not be a product or service that already exists.
# Your project must be constructed during the hackathon and completed by judging time (advanced planning/designing is permitted).

=== Prizes ===
TBA (1st, 2nd, 3rd)

=== Achievements ===
* ''Abomination'' - This product is egregiously unwholesome. Congratulations.
* ''Shut Up & Take My Money'' - This stupid product might actually be a huge market hit, if it were legal for you to sell it.
* ''Incomprehensible'' – I really don’t get it.
* ''Code Violation'' - This product is a ridiculous safety hazard.
* ''Worst Dressed'' – For the awesomest costume.
* ''Beautiful Friendship'' – The best “crossover” product. (Multiple franchises)
* ''Malware'' – For the best app or software.
* ''Inconvenience'' – Making life MORE difficult.
* ''Tasty'' – Best Food-adjacent stupidity
* ''Monetize all the things'' – generating income by any means necessary
* ''Social dilemma'' – Flagrant abuse of social media
* ''Butlerian Jihad'' – Flagrant abuse of A.I.

=== FAQ ===
'''Is this real?'''

Yes. For fun.

'''What even is this “stupid shit”?'''

If you need inspiration, check out the entries from the original Stupid Shit Hackathon in 2017: https://stupidhackathon.com/

'''Do I have to stay the whole time?'''

Of course not, slacker. But you or a team member must be there for Kickoff (7 PM Friday) and Judging (Noon on Sunday).

'''I can’t finish a product over the weekend, that’s ridiculous!'''

Look, maybe you don’t know what hackathons are—that’s okay. We’re giving you a challenge. We don’t expect you to make something perfect. We’re expecting you to be as clever as you can.

'''How do you win?'''

The main prizes (1st, 2nd, 3rd) will be awarded by a panel of judges. The “Achievements” will be voted on by the contestants.

'''Will there be food?'''

Yes. Maybe not three square meals. Maybe not special-diet-friendly. But food will be there, yes.

'''Can I bring my kid(s)?'''

Technically, yes, but they must be under YOUR DIRECT SUPERVISION at ALL TIMES. We tend to think of ourselves as “kid-tolerant,” not “kid-friendly.” We are a space operated by and for adults, and we have no staff to accommodate the needs of children. If you can’t supervise them responsibly, we may ask you to leave.

'''Who is in charge of all of this tomfoolery?'''

Contact Danielle Blank (Danielle.Blank@lvl1.org) with any questions, complaints, or offers of help.

Manual

2019-01-13T01:36:52Z

Dblank: Basic updates

= LVL1 Manual =

 
== Introduction ==

[[File:Lvl1_2011_big.png|right]]

Welcome to [[LVL1]]!

Our space might be a little overwhelming at first, so we've created this manual as a rough guide to help you get the most out of the community we've created.

We hope that this guide will help you better understand how [[LVL1]] is organized, answer common questions and provide direction on how to get the most out of the resources [[LVL1]] has to offer.

This manual is a guide to all members of our community; from first-time visitors to founding members. Feel free to edit and contribute information to this guide. [[LVL1]] is a dynamic space and we expect this guide to be as equally as dynamic.

If you have questions not addressed in this [[Manual]], please also check our [[FAQ]] or email info@lvl1.org.

 
== About LVL1 ==

[[File:Butterscotch.jpeg|left|400px]]

[[LVL1]] is an open community workshop democratically operated by our membership. We are a friendly community of tinkerers, makers, engineers, educators, scientists, artists, hackers and overall geeks. Anyone who is, aspires to be, or just wants to hang around smart, creative, friendly mad scientist maker/hacker Louisvillians is welcome at [[LVL1]]! We've got lots of cool tools and equipment. We've got a lot of really bright and creative people. We like to work on (and show off) fun and challenging technical projects.

 

== LVL1 Culture ==

[[File:Mario_and_doctor.jpeg|right|300px]]

[[LVL1]] strives to promote an open and welcoming culture. We like the fact that we're a public resource for the community. To keep this kind of openness in our community, it takes a little more effort in a social sense to keep things running smoothly. Being part of an open community can be a challenge sometimes. Try to display a little extra politeness, a little extra patience, a little extra cleanliness and a little extra friendliness.

Our primary policy is to "Be Excellent to Each Other." If you're not being excellent to your other members, expect to get called out for it. If you don't know whether or not something you're doing is excellent, odds are, it isn't.

 

== Organization ==

LVL1 is a non-profit 501c(3) organization. We collect dues from our membership to pay rent, utilities, insurance and maintenance of the space. Any funds left over are used for tools and consumables for LVL1.

LVL1 has a 7 member Board of Directors elected by membership. This includes four elected officers and three at-large directors. The Board of Directors fulfill the roles required by Kentucky law and oversee the operation of LVL1. All of the directors are volunteers and are not compensated financially. The directors can be contacted by emailing directors@lvl1.org.

 

== Regular Events ==

LVL1 has an Open Meeting & Making every Tuesday at 8pm. This is best time to come by the space to find out what's happening and meet our community.

We keep a calendar of other upcoming meetings and events at http://lvl1.org.

 
== Health & Safety ==

Safety is the responsibility of each and every person at LVL1. You are especially responsible for your own safety, but if you see others being unsafe, tell them!

Everyone walking through the door must sign a [[Waiver]] of Liability. This waiver absolves LVL1 of responsibility should anyone damage themselves at the hackerspace. All guests you bring in MUST sign this waiver, regardless of how long they intend to stay, or whether or not they intend to use any tools. Anyone refusing to sign a waiver will be asked to leave.

It should go without saying, but if you don't know how to use a tool, don't use it! If you want to learn how to use a tool, ask around, and wait for someone to teach you! If you're alone in the Hackerspace, it is advisable to refrain from using dangerous tools.

*The First aid kit is located next to the doors that lead to the 'back' of the space. it's a white box with green lettering on it.
** An auxiliary first aid kit is next to the light switch (on the shelf with all the safety goggles) in the woodshop.
*Fire extinguishers are littered throughout the space. Make yourself aware of the location of fire extinguishers, they should all be in plain sight.

There are two breaker boxes in the hackerspace. The main 200 amp service is in the 'back' of the space, located inside the cabinet painted to look like a tardis. the 100 amp subpanel is located in the corner of the wood shop, next to the CNC operator's station.

 

== Children ==

LVL1 is a dynamic space with potential hazards requiring a mature attitude towards safety. Due to the nature of this environment (and the extra precaution required) unattended minors under the age of 18 are prohibited from LVL1. Minors may be present when accompanied by a legal guardian.

When accompanied by a legal guardian, minors must have a [[Waiver]] filled out by that guardian.

Although LVL1 allows accompanied minors, keep in mind that we do not make any effort to maintain a kid-friendly environment.

 

== Consumables ==

For most activities, you should plan to bring your own consumables. LVL1 has an ample supply of basic needs, but anything large or specialized will not likely be found at the space.

There is a shelf in the boneyard containing free resistors, capacitors, LEDs, and some semiconductors. Items such as tape, glue, zip-ties, soldering equipment (i.e. flux, solder), hot-glue, and wiggle-eyes are also free, but are scattered throughout the space due to them being moved. If any parts run out, let us know by emailing Broken@lvl1.org. Wire is located on the bottom right of the soldering workstation, and is also free.

As of 9/14/2008, Filament for the Makerbot costs $0.10 a gram. There is a scale next to the MakerBots to weigh your prints. You must pay for your plastic, even if your part is a disastrous failure! This fee helps pay for maintenance and plastic.

The laser cutter is free for non-commercial purposes, and $1 per minute for commercial purposes. More details can be found on the page for the [[Full Spectrum Laser]]. Scrap material for the laser is located underneath the table.

Scrap wood and metal are located in the bunker.

Items in the boneyard are also free.

There is a parts store located in the Tom's vending machine. Eventually this will be a web-connected store.

Snacks and drinks are located in the fridge, and behind the counter near member storage. Prices are marked, and based on the honor system.

 

== Donations ==

LVL1 is a [[501c3]] non-profit, and will accept your donations of equipment or money. We accept all electronic and electromechanical equipment, except CRT monitors, or items containing CRT monitors. Donations should be made to LVL1 Inc. For more details on the rules of donations, see the [[501c3]] page. If you have any questions, contact directors@lvl1.org.

 

== Tools ==

For a list of the Tools at lvl1, See http://wiki.lvl1.org/Equipment.

 

== Storage ==

You're only allowed to store items at the space on a semi-permanent basis if you're a member. Non-members, please take your stuff home at the end of the day!

Please be conscious of our limited space, and only store items that you will use.

 
== The Space ==

LVL1 consists of about 8,800 square feet of work area. The space is divided into the main work area, the bunker, which houses the wood shop and metal shop, the classroom, and the member storage/boneyard spaces.

=== Main Work Area ===

Most of the action at LVL1 takes place here, including most meetings and general work activity. This area contains work stations for 3D printing (the makerbots), laser and vinyl cutting, soldering, sewing, Raspberry Pis, and most hand tools, as well as a smart-board style interactive projector.

=== Food Prep ===

We have a food prep area just inside the main door that includes a refrigerator, microwave, soft drink vending machine, and a prep table stocked with disposable plates, napkins, and utensils. Feel free to use these implements to make delicious food! Remember though that we have no janitorial staff so please clean up after yourself and dispose of food waste outside the space. Also, do not use the food microwave for anything other than consumables; we have another microwave specifically for hacking.

=== Bathrooms ===

Bathrooms are located just outside of LVL1's space. They are down the hall and to the left out the door in the Main Work Area that leads into the rest of The Pointe. 
Set the timer near the door to have the door remain unlocked while you are in the bathroom.

=== Classroom ===

The classroom has tables, a projector matching the one in the main room, and a library. The library includes a broad selection of technical books. This is not yet a lending library, although we're working on that. Feel free to use any texts while at the space.

=== The Bunker ===

The bunker is in the south of the space, and is a separate space containing the wood and metal shops.

=== Wood Shop ===

The wood shop contains many woodworking tools, including two CNC machines.

=== Metal Shop ===

The metal shop includes a mill, a lathe, pipe bending equipment, and sheet metal equipment.

=== The Boneyard ===

In the back (north) of the space, the boneyard rests behind member storage shelves. Pieces that are available for hacking live in the boneyard. Scrap material is stored in the boneyard. If you aren't sure, please ask a member or two if an item you would like to hack isn't an important not-for-hacking part that accidentally ended up in the boneyard.

 

=== Parking ===

Parking for the space is available in The Pointe's parking lots, and on the street nearby. The Pointe's main parking lot, which is on the corner of East Washington and Cabel streets, is clearly visible from the street. However, another smaller (but closer to the door) parking lot is hidden behind the flood wall off Cabel street. Check the [[http://www.lvl1.org/location/ Location]] page on our main web site for directions, photos, and more info.

 

== Guests ==

LVL1 is an open access hackerspace. Any time a member is present at the space, guests are welcome to drop by, work on projects, use the resources of the space, or just hang out. All guests must sign a [[Waiver]]. Any guests under 18 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. When all members leave, all guests must also leave. It is the responsibility of the last member to leave to ensure that the space is empty, and the door is locked.

 

== Nearby Resources ==

[http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=217369385395577844598.00048bac33ccfb6a6ec16&msa=0 Map of Louisville Hacker Resources]

 
== Workshops ==

=== Attending a Workshop ===
*Show up. (Early, especially if it's also your first time visiting the space, because you might get lost finding the door, and also will need to sign a waiver.)
*If it's your first visit to the space, sign our waiver of liability, on the kiosks in the front entry-way.
*Make your way to the classroom, which is diagonal across the main room from the front door.
*Don't hesitate to ask anyone you can find in the space about where the workshop is being held (sometimes they are not in the classroom.)

=== Hosting a Workshop ===

Workshops are a great way to spread awareness and grow LVL1 in knowledge, expertise and memberships. They're also a great way to show off and share what you know. Hosting a workshop at LVL1 is very easy.

# Think of a workshop idea. Do you have any knowledge you'd like to spread? If you'd like, do an interest-check at a Tuesday meeting, or on the mailing list.
# Figure out how many attendees you'd be willing to teach. (Recruit help if necessary!)
# Figure out how much the workshop will cost. For hardware workshops, this might be quite a bit. For software workshops, this might be nothing at all! You're more likely to get committed folks if you put a nominal price on the workshop ($5-$10), but don't feel like you have to. If you'd like, add some money on top of the workshop to benefit LVL1.
# Pick a date. Any arbitrary date will do. Find one that isn't taken on the calendar.
# Create promotional material for the event (a description, requirements, prerequisites, some graphics).
# Email the board of directors to set up an EventBrite event. Eventbrite handles payments and ticketing. If you're hosting a free or low cost workshop, you can skip this and accept payment at the door.
# Email the list to announce the workshop.
# Make a blog post to announce the workshop.
# Email the board of directors to purchase supplies.
# Come to LVL1 and teach the workshop!

'''Guide to LVL1 culture'''
*Be excellent to each other is our prime directive. Keep things fun.
**All people like to be around things that are fun.
**All people tend to avoid things and events that are not fun.
**Therefore the best way to keep attendance and occupancy up is to keep things fun.
*Fair Warning: Using the collective 'we' can quickly get you deputized.
**This is meant to be a playful way of avoiding 'diffusion of responsibility'. Sometimes when people say "We should _________!", what they really mean is "Someone besides myself should _________!"
**Being deputized doesn't mean you have to do it yourself. But, it does mean you should lead the charge, find people to help you, and cajole them as necessary (free beer or home-baked cookies) to make it happen.
*When scheduling something; pick an arbitrary date to start negotiations, thereby avoiding arbitrary non-starting negotiations.
**Sometimes the hardest part of organizing is finding the 'best' time to do it.
**There is never a 'best time' that works for everyone.
**Once a date is set, everything else quickly falls into place.
*The less rules the better. Don't try to solve problems we don't have.
**We rely on a culture of openness, friendliness and mutual respect.
**If you have a conflict with some aspect of the space or a member, we expect you to try and resolve it with the member on a personal level first. If that is not achievable, then find a Director to help mediate the conflict. Rule-making is a last resort approach for conflict resolution.
*Be excellent to each other.

== Membership ==
* You don't need to be a LVL1 member to hang out with us at meetings and events! All are welcome to come and geek out with us. There's a common misperception that you should be a member before coming to these meetings. This is not true! At least 50% of these meeting attendees are not dues paying members and all of them are welcome. Most of those non-members have no intention of becoming dues paying members. That's fine! There's no pressure to become an official member! Official membership has some awesome benefits and we'd love to have you, but it's cool if you just want to hang out and geek out.

==Why Should I Become a Member?==
To be part of the community, that’s why!
Keep in mind that LVL1 has no paid staff or charged admission. We are not a gym. We are just a shared workspace. If you want to support it and maintain it, we need you to join the team!

== Becoming a LVL1 member ==
*Membership is $50 a month through a PayPal auto-payment
*Membership gives you the following rights:
**Voting Rights (direction and conflict resolution)
**24x7 access to space, you get a key
**Access to all equipment owned, donated or loaned to LVL1
**Ability to sponsor new members
* Membership currently has the following requirements:
** Convince 3 existing members to sponsor you.
** Have two officers verify a photo ID.

Please read the [[Bylaws]] before becoming a member, so you have an understanding of how we operate procedurally.

Remember, your member contribution is more than just paying the rent (member dues). It’s helping to maintain a clean, working, fun place to make stuff!

== Finalizing your LVL1 membership with Front Desk ==
'''Front Desk was purchased by Pike13 and so this documentation may not be up to date anymore. contact the current BoD to get up-to-date membership sign-up information.'''
Once you have completed your membership form, you can finish your account using Front Desk, our membership management software.
Follow the steps below:
*Go to LVL1's Front Desk page at http://lvl1.frontdeskhq.com
*Select "Sign Up" at the top right hand corner of the screen [[File:LVL1_Guide_1.png]]
*Enter the email address you would like to use for your LVL1 account [[File:LVL1_Guide_2.png]]
*For adults, do not select dependent
**For dependents and children, select dependent
*Enter your personal information
*Create a password for your LVL1 account
*Once you click sign up your account has been created and you will be brought to your personal dashboard
*From here a LVL1 officer or LVL1 Front Desk administrator must send you a request for a membership plan
**When you receive the invitation, a banner will appear at the top of your dashboard
**Click on the banner to accept the new plan
**Enter your credit card or other payment information
**Click "Finish"
**You will now see a screen detailing your payment information
*Now, have a LVL1 officer get your information to issue you an RFID badge for the door
*Once your badge has been tested and your information has been verified, you're in!

== Completing the electronic waiver ==

*Click on Signature Request for Waiver after you login
*The screen will refresh and ask you to Complete the waiver, click on this link for the DocuSign.
*At the top left click to agree to the DocuSign terms of service
*Scroll to the bottom and click on ‘Sign'
*You’ll have the option to have the auto signature or style or even ‘Draw’ one
*Click Adopt And Sign
*Click Finish at the bottom of the screen
*You will be redirected to the LVL1 FrontDesk site

Main Page

2016-06-17T00:34:26Z

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|-valign="top";|
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|-
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===New to LVL1.org?===
This is our fast and loose wiki site. It's the quickest way for all those involved with LVL1 to add and update information. For news, announcements and blogs check out our main page [http://www.lvl1.org http://www.lvl1.org]! To get a general idea of what we do, as well as directions and parking information, visit the [[LVL1]] wiki page.

==== General Info ====
* [[Manual]]
* [[Community Guidelines]]
** [[How To Be Excellent]]
* [[Finding Information]]
* [[:Category:HOWTO|HOWTOs]]
* [[LVL1's Story]]

=== Join in the LVL1 discussions. ===

https://groups.google.com/d/forum/lvl1

=== Recent Meetings ===
These are the agendas from recent meetings:
* [[06/14/2016]]
* [[06/07/2016]]
* [[05/31/2016]]
* [[05/24/2016]]
* [[05/17/2016]]
* [[05/10/2016]]
* [[05/03/2016]]
* [[04/26/2016]]
* [[04/19/2016]]
* [[04/12/2016]]
* [[04/05/2016]]
* [[03/29/2016]]
* [[Older Meetings]]

=== Membership ===
You don't need to be a LVL1 member to enjoy any of our meetings, events and workshops. But if you'd like the full LVL1 access that membership provides, and want to fully support LVL1, we'd love to have you!
* [[How To Become A Member]]
* [[Previous Votes]]
* [[Voting ProTips]]
* [[Officers and Directors]]

=== Support ===
Not ready to sign up to be a full member, but still want to support the LVL1 Louisville Hackerspace? Send us a donation of any value!

<shtml hash="2e94dfa6b8c3b7b966d0ecc68b6ea66a"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick">
<input type="hidden" name="hosted_button_id" value="11193995">
<input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!">
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1">
</form>
</shtml>

* [[Subscribe to Make Magazine]] and help LVL1!

=== Links ===
* [http://makezine.com/blog Make magazine blog]
* [http://instructables.com Instructables]

=== Our Neighbors ===
*[http://www.hive13.org/ Hive 13] - Cincinnati, Oh
*[http://www.daytondiode.org/ Dayton Diode] - Dayton, Oh
*[http://bloominglabs.org/index.php/Main_Page Bloominglabs] - Bloomington, In
*[http://collexion.net/wiki/Main_Page Collexion] - Lexington, Ky
*[http://www.hackerconsortium.com/blog/ Hacker Consortium] - Nashville, Tn
*[http://www.clubcyberia.org/ Club Cyberia] - Indianapolis, IN
*[http://www.lafayettetechlabs.org Lafayette Tech Labs] - Lafayette, IN
*[http://tekventure.org TekVenture] - Fort Wayne, IN
*[http://firstbuild.com/ FirstBuild] - Louisville, KY

| valign="top" |

=== What's Happening? ===
* [[Calendar|Our Calendar]]
* [[Louisville Soundbuilders]]
* [[Power Racing Series]]
* [[Mend_It_Monday|Mend-nesday]]
* [[Learn-a-thing]]
* [[Workshops]]
* [[Sumobots]] Information and Links
* [[Grand Projects or Pipe Dreams]]
* [[JAC Projects]]
* [[Truly Mad Scientist's LVL1 Splinter Group]]
* [[Screaming Bread]]
* [[MakerEd]]
* [[Inactive Projects]]
* [[ConMen]]
* [[PDG Projects]]

=== LVL1 Member Projects on the Net ===

* [[LVL1 Member Projects on The Net]]

=== LVL1 Movie and a Demonstration/Experiment ===

* [[LVL1 Movie Night]]
* [[Movie Night Projects]]

=== Our Space ===
* '''1205 E Washington Street, The Pointe. Suite LL100!'''
* [[Space|Our Facilities]]
* [[Equipment|Equipment List]]
** [[CNC Machine]] - Located in the wood shop (for the Zenbot look at the Equipment List)
** [[Full Spectrum Laser]] (Small Laser)
** [[Rabbit Laser]] (Big Laser)
** [[Graphtec Vinyl Cutter]]
** [[Shapeoko2]]
** [[Clive Badger]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
** [[Johnny 5]] - Makerbot Replicator 3D printer
*** [[MakerBot Quickstart]] - Get Printing!
* [[Space TO DO List]]
* [[Equipment Wishlist]]
* [[Oculus LVL1]]
** [http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvl1 Photos]
** [http://www.youtube.com/user/OculusLVL1 Videos]

=== Media ===
* [[Graphics]]
* [[t-shirts]] etc.
* Stickers are at the space

=== Communications ===
* [http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1 Our Google Group] This is where we do all our talking! Subscribe to get all the latest by email.
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/lvl1/ Our Flickr Group] [[Flickr Slideshow]]
* [https://www.pivotaltracker.com/projects/346747/overview Pivotal Tracker]
* [[About this Wiki]]

=== Paper Work ===
* [[Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[Mission]]
* [[Waiver]]
* [[Media:LVL1_MembershipForm_2015NOV24.pdf|New Member Signup/Info Form]]

Power Racing Series

2016-06-17T00:31:53Z

Dblank: Created page with " == LVL1 Hackerspace's Official Power Racing Series Team! == '''Our vehicle for 2016: "RoomBAMF."''' Race rules and information: [http://powerracingseries.org] Inspira..."

== LVL1 Hackerspace's Official Power Racing Series Team! ==

'''Our vehicle for 2016: "RoomBAMF."'''

Race rules and information:
[http://powerracingseries.org]

Inspirational footage for our design:
[http://youtu.be/Of2HU3LGdbo]

Our structure will be a giant Roomba-style vehicle, featuring stylized personal safety gear to create a cat (dressed as a shark) costume.
We are aiming to compete in the Maker Faire Detroit 2016 race, on July 30-31.

''Curious for details? Want to help?''
Come by any '''Thursday around 7:30 PM''' to see what's going on!

''Contact: Danielle Blank
''

Rabbit Laser

2016-04-23T02:41:43Z

Dblank: Included brief directions to reset the anchor point

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
|picture=Rabbit_Laser.jpg
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Restrictions =

This laser cutter is restricted to member-use only. It is only operable through RFID badge access, and names & times of members' usage will be kept in a log. This accountability is an effort to maintain responsible use of the laser--see "Laser Odor" below.
Remember: '''use you LVL1 key card to activate the laser for cutting AND lock out the laser when you are finished.''' Failure to swipe your card a second time can leave you logged into the system (which you will still be held responsible for).

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

Laser fumes are normally vented through the window and out a shaft. Outdoors, the fumes do not bother residents.
If you start to smell odor, then the fumes are backing up into the space and ''will soon bother our neighbors.''

'''IF YOU NOTICE AN ODOR beginning to fill the space, IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE LASER USE.'''

Similarly, when you finish your project, wait a few moments before opening the laser cutter to allow the fumes to exit.

''Our landlords have made it clear that another odor complaint from our neighbors will result in permanent prohibition of the laser.''

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format) (for vector cutting)
* PLT (for vector cutting)
* BMP (engraving only)
* JPG (engraving only)
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrave cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Use your LVL1 Member Access Key to turn on the laser by swiping it across the reader (the indicator light beside it will go from "red" to "green" and there will be a "beep").
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc". (Alternatively, you can simply start without setting an anchor. For this to work, any existing anchor would have to be canceled: press "Esc" then "Anchor" and select the cancel option on the LCD, if one shows up.)
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!
# When you are finished with the laser cut software, Don't forget to move your files to your member folder on the Z-drive of the file server or to your own USB key or SD card. Similarly, please cancel an anchor point, if you have made one.
# Make sure to swipe your Member Key again after you are finished to log out!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=
*NOTE: This is advanced--do not attempt without training!**
Using the Roller-Type Rotary attachment... Our customer was very interested in purchasing our laser machine, and also interested in using the roller-style rotary attachment.
**Make sure the main door is up and safety switches will NOT allow the laser to fire. **
# Move the worktable down such that the attachment and materials will surely fit underneath the focal head assembly. When you put the rotary attachment down in the work area, be careful not to damage the honeycomb bed. Some customers put a plywood insert in place of the honeycomb bed. You can see in this picture that I used some corrugated plastic board to protect the honeycomb bed from getting dented by me as I adjust the roller attachment. The tail-stock end of the rotary attachment is a free-rolling support for the material to engrave onto.
# Adjust the tailstock end of the attachment so it is at the right distance from the head. This is to ensure the material fits securely on the roller attachment. The tailstock end is needed to help support the material and the front end of the roller attachment drives the motion. The front end of the material needs adequate weight to make sure the roller o-rings keep traction during the cutting motions. Extra*** It is very neat to engrave wine glasses, but they often do not have the weight needed to keep traction. I usually press "Silly Putty" into the wine glass to give it more weight and disperse the heat as not to shatter the thin glass.
# Look at how the rotary attachment sits under the Y Axis Rail. Align the rotary attachment to be in line with the rail. We need for the laser to hit in the "top-dead-center" of the material that you have on the rotary attachment.
# Now to make sure the laser will be in focus. Move the focal assembly to the right end of the material and bring the worktable up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up.
# Move the focal assembly to the tail-stock end of the material and adjust the rollers up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up. The flashlight in this picture will have a long distance that could be engraved, but some materials may only present a short distance that could be in focus.. (example: short wine glasses) * This picture shows the knob for adjusting the height of the tail-stock end of the rotary attachment.
# Now that the rotary attachment is sitting in place, it needs to be connected to the machine. The motor connector and wires need to be routed through the square hole and taken to the motor amplifier. This picture shows the square hole from inside the laser work area. This picture shows the square hole from inside the electronics panel. *** Make sure the power is OFF before you remove the motor wires. Tie the wires off to the side. Place the wire connector (for the rotary attachment) onto the connector of the Y-Axis amplifier. Do not push too hard... It helps to slightly wiggle the connector as you push it on. After everything is reconnected, turn the power back on.***
#Please use the below pictures as a guide on how to unplug and plug in the wiring - remember to turn the machine OFF before getting into the wiring
# This picture shows the appropriate wire to unplug to turn off power to the Yaxis [[Media:Laser-RotaryWiring.jpg]]
# This picture shows where to connect the rotary tool on the amplifier (it's on the far right, and then plug in the two pronged connector)[[Media:Laser-RotaryWiringYaxis.jpg]]
# Now we need to adjust the software settings to produce images that are truly the correct proportion and not stretched in the Y axis direction. We expect that the computer system is turned on, software is already installed, and the LaserCut 5.3 is working correctly. Start LaserCut 5.3 with a fresh project. Select the "File" in the menu and then select "Machine-Options" .. or press Ctrl and J buttons together for the hotkey function. The "MachineOptions" window will turn on.
# Select the settings for the "Worktable" ... seen here in the picture as highlighted in blue.
# Notice the current value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] is 0.007943125. This is the default distance that each pulse command will move the laser machine. This value is used for the linear rails.
# Change the value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] to 0.01823829. This is the "approximate" value for the drive end of the rotary axis. This number might be different depending on the diameter of the O-rings in your rotary attachment.
# Save the changes to the "Machine Options" that we have just made. Simply press "OK" .. you should not need to insert a new password.
# Close the "Machine Options" window. *** Your are now ready to start a new project with the rotary axis. ** Here is an example of how I engraved my name around the top of the Maglight flashlight. Please notice that the flashlight has two obvious diameters. The diameter of the flashlight head at the drive wheels is larger than the body of the flashlight. We cannot turn the flashlight around because we can't get it to be level that way... We must use the flashlight with the bulb at the drive end of the rotary attachment. The problem is "How do we set up the rotary attachment for us to have finished pictures that aren't stretched?" It is pretty easy to do trial and error to get a "square picture", but let's do it with math. Measure the diameter of the drive end (D1) and diameter of the body (D2). Now use your calculator to find D2/D1 * 0.01823829 = (new YAxis Pulse value). Enter this number into the Machine Options table, save settings, .. and ready to engrave the new section of the flashlight. Please remember that you will need to put the original Y-Axis Pulse value back into the "Machine Options" section before you can use the laser machine in normal mode (without the rotary axis).

**Questions: **
Q) I did the installation, but all the graphics are backwards or upside-down. What to do to fix this?
A) Go the the electrical connector of the stepper motor. There should be four wires going into a green plastic connector. Turn the machine power off. Loosen the screws for the two wires at the end of the connector (B+ and B-), Switch the position of these two wires. Tighten the screws back down. Turn the machine power back on. The rotary attachment will now go the other direction when given a command to move.

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.
* If your laser engraving turns out to be in perfect circles instead of the full area, there is an option to put small circles in an engraved area, to fix this:
** Create your your engrave area/shape and select it
** Double click on the speed/power area to the top right
** Click on the ... to the right of Blow
** Take the circles out of Fill Circle & Engrave Circle

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2016-04-22T01:01:00Z

Dblank: /* How to use the Laser in Table mode */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
|picture=Rabbit_Laser.jpg
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Restrictions =

This laser cutter is restricted to member-use only. It is only operable through RFID badge access, and names & times of members' usage will be kept in a log. This accountability is an effort to maintain responsible use of the laser--see "Laser Odor" below.
Remember: '''use you LVL1 key card to activate the laser for cutting AND lock out the laser when you are finished.''' Failure to swipe your card a second time can leave you logged into the system (which you will still be held responsible for).

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

Laser fumes are normally vented through the window and out a shaft. Outdoors, the fumes do not bother residents.
If you start to smell odor, then the fumes are backing up into the space and ''will soon bother our neighbors.''

'''IF YOU NOTICE AN ODOR beginning to fill the space, IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE LASER USE.'''

Similarly, when you finish your project, wait a few moments before opening the laser cutter to allow the fumes to exit.

''Our landlords have made it clear that another odor complaint from our neighbors will result in permanent prohibition of the laser.''

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format) (for vector cutting)
* PLT (for vector cutting)
* BMP (engraving only)
* JPG (engraving only)
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrave cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Use your LVL1 Member Access Key to turn on the laser by swiping it across the reader (the indicator light beside it will go from "red" to "green" and there will be a "beep").
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!
# When you are finished with the laser cut software, Don't forget to move your files to your member folder on the Z-drive of the file server or to your own USB key or SD card.
# Make sure to swipe your Member Key again after you are finished to log out!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=
*NOTE: This is advanced--do not attempt without training!**
Using the Roller-Type Rotary attachment... Our customer was very interested in purchasing our laser machine, and also interested in using the roller-style rotary attachment.
**Make sure the main door is up and safety switches will NOT allow the laser to fire. **
# Move the worktable down such that the attachment and materials will surely fit underneath the focal head assembly. When you put the rotary attachment down in the work area, be careful not to damage the honeycomb bed. Some customers put a plywood insert in place of the honeycomb bed. You can see in this picture that I used some corrugated plastic board to protect the honeycomb bed from getting dented by me as I adjust the roller attachment. The tail-stock end of the rotary attachment is a free-rolling support for the material to engrave onto.
# Adjust the tailstock end of the attachment so it is at the right distance from the head. This is to ensure the material fits securely on the roller attachment. The tailstock end is needed to help support the material and the front end of the roller attachment drives the motion. The front end of the material needs adequate weight to make sure the roller o-rings keep traction during the cutting motions. Extra*** It is very neat to engrave wine glasses, but they often do not have the weight needed to keep traction. I usually press "Silly Putty" into the wine glass to give it more weight and disperse the heat as not to shatter the thin glass.
# Look at how the rotary attachment sits under the Y Axis Rail. Align the rotary attachment to be in line with the rail. We need for the laser to hit in the "top-dead-center" of the material that you have on the rotary attachment.
# Now to make sure the laser will be in focus. Move the focal assembly to the right end of the material and bring the worktable up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up.
# Move the focal assembly to the tail-stock end of the material and adjust the rollers up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up. The flashlight in this picture will have a long distance that could be engraved, but some materials may only present a short distance that could be in focus.. (example: short wine glasses) * This picture shows the knob for adjusting the height of the tail-stock end of the rotary attachment.
# Now that the rotary attachment is sitting in place, it needs to be connected to the machine. The motor connector and wires need to be routed through the square hole and taken to the motor amplifier. This picture shows the square hole from inside the laser work area. This picture shows the square hole from inside the electronics panel. *** Make sure the power is OFF before you remove the motor wires. Tie the wires off to the side. Place the wire connector (for the rotary attachment) onto the connector of the Y-Axis amplifier. Do not push too hard... It helps to slightly wiggle the connector as you push it on. After everything is reconnected, turn the power back on.***
#Please use the below pictures as a guide on how to unplug and plug in the wiring - remember to turn the machine OFF before getting into the wiring
# This picture shows the appropriate wire to unplug to turn off power to the Yaxis [[Media:Laser-RotaryWiring.jpg]]
# This picture shows where to connect the rotary tool on the amplifier (it's on the far right, and then plug in the two pronged connector)[[Media:Laser-RotaryWiringYaxis.jpg]]
# Now we need to adjust the software settings to produce images that are truly the correct proportion and not stretched in the Y axis direction. We expect that the computer system is turned on, software is already installed, and the LaserCut 5.3 is working correctly. Start LaserCut 5.3 with a fresh project. Select the "File" in the menu and then select "Machine-Options" .. or press Ctrl and J buttons together for the hotkey function. The "MachineOptions" window will turn on.
# Select the settings for the "Worktable" ... seen here in the picture as highlighted in blue.
# Notice the current value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] is 0.007943125. This is the default distance that each pulse command will move the laser machine. This value is used for the linear rails.
# Change the value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] to 0.01823829. This is the "approximate" value for the drive end of the rotary axis. This number might be different depending on the diameter of the O-rings in your rotary attachment.
# Save the changes to the "Machine Options" that we have just made. Simply press "OK" .. you should not need to insert a new password.
# Close the "Machine Options" window. *** Your are now ready to start a new project with the rotary axis. ** Here is an example of how I engraved my name around the top of the Maglight flashlight. Please notice that the flashlight has two obvious diameters. The diameter of the flashlight head at the drive wheels is larger than the body of the flashlight. We cannot turn the flashlight around because we can't get it to be level that way... We must use the flashlight with the bulb at the drive end of the rotary attachment. The problem is "How do we set up the rotary attachment for us to have finished pictures that aren't stretched?" It is pretty easy to do trial and error to get a "square picture", but let's do it with math. Measure the diameter of the drive end (D1) and diameter of the body (D2). Now use your calculator to find D2/D1 * 0.01823829 = (new YAxis Pulse value). Enter this number into the Machine Options table, save settings, .. and ready to engrave the new section of the flashlight. Please remember that you will need to put the original Y-Axis Pulse value back into the "Machine Options" section before you can use the laser machine in normal mode (without the rotary axis).

**Questions: **
Q) I did the installation, but all the graphics are backwards or upside-down. What to do to fix this?
A) Go the the electrical connector of the stepper motor. There should be four wires going into a green plastic connector. Turn the machine power off. Loosen the screws for the two wires at the end of the connector (B+ and B-), Switch the position of these two wires. Tighten the screws back down. Turn the machine power back on. The rotary attachment will now go the other direction when given a command to move.

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.
* If your laser engraving turns out to be in perfect circles instead of the full area, there is an option to put small circles in an engraved area, to fix this:
** Create your your engrave area/shape and select it
** Double click on the speed/power area to the top right
** Click on the ... to the right of Blow
** Take the circles out of Fill Circle & Engrave Circle

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2016-04-22T00:58:34Z

Dblank: /* Restrictions */

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
|picture=Rabbit_Laser.jpg
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Restrictions =

This laser cutter is restricted to member-use only. It is only operable through RFID badge access, and names & times of members' usage will be kept in a log. This accountability is an effort to maintain responsible use of the laser--see "Laser Odor" below.
Remember: '''use you LVL1 key card to activate the laser for cutting AND lock out the laser when you are finished.''' Failure to swipe your card a second time can leave you logged into the system (which you will still be held responsible for).

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

Laser fumes are normally vented through the window and out a shaft. Outdoors, the fumes do not bother residents.
If you start to smell odor, then the fumes are backing up into the space and ''will soon bother our neighbors.''

'''IF YOU NOTICE AN ODOR beginning to fill the space, IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE LASER USE.'''

Similarly, when you finish your project, wait a few moments before opening the laser cutter to allow the fumes to exit.

''Our landlords have made it clear that another odor complaint from our neighbors will result in permanent prohibition of the laser.''

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format) (for vector cutting)
* PLT (for vector cutting)
* BMP (engraving only)
* JPG (engraving only)
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrave cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Use your LVL1 Member Access Key to turn on the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!
# When you are finished with the laser cut software, Don't forget to move your files to your member folder on the Z-drive of the file server or to your own USB key or SD card.
# Make sure to swipe your Member Key again after you are finished to log out!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=
*NOTE: This is advanced--do not attempt without training!**
Using the Roller-Type Rotary attachment... Our customer was very interested in purchasing our laser machine, and also interested in using the roller-style rotary attachment.
**Make sure the main door is up and safety switches will NOT allow the laser to fire. **
# Move the worktable down such that the attachment and materials will surely fit underneath the focal head assembly. When you put the rotary attachment down in the work area, be careful not to damage the honeycomb bed. Some customers put a plywood insert in place of the honeycomb bed. You can see in this picture that I used some corrugated plastic board to protect the honeycomb bed from getting dented by me as I adjust the roller attachment. The tail-stock end of the rotary attachment is a free-rolling support for the material to engrave onto.
# Adjust the tailstock end of the attachment so it is at the right distance from the head. This is to ensure the material fits securely on the roller attachment. The tailstock end is needed to help support the material and the front end of the roller attachment drives the motion. The front end of the material needs adequate weight to make sure the roller o-rings keep traction during the cutting motions. Extra*** It is very neat to engrave wine glasses, but they often do not have the weight needed to keep traction. I usually press "Silly Putty" into the wine glass to give it more weight and disperse the heat as not to shatter the thin glass.
# Look at how the rotary attachment sits under the Y Axis Rail. Align the rotary attachment to be in line with the rail. We need for the laser to hit in the "top-dead-center" of the material that you have on the rotary attachment.
# Now to make sure the laser will be in focus. Move the focal assembly to the right end of the material and bring the worktable up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up.
# Move the focal assembly to the tail-stock end of the material and adjust the rollers up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up. The flashlight in this picture will have a long distance that could be engraved, but some materials may only present a short distance that could be in focus.. (example: short wine glasses) * This picture shows the knob for adjusting the height of the tail-stock end of the rotary attachment.
# Now that the rotary attachment is sitting in place, it needs to be connected to the machine. The motor connector and wires need to be routed through the square hole and taken to the motor amplifier. This picture shows the square hole from inside the laser work area. This picture shows the square hole from inside the electronics panel. *** Make sure the power is OFF before you remove the motor wires. Tie the wires off to the side. Place the wire connector (for the rotary attachment) onto the connector of the Y-Axis amplifier. Do not push too hard... It helps to slightly wiggle the connector as you push it on. After everything is reconnected, turn the power back on.***
#Please use the below pictures as a guide on how to unplug and plug in the wiring - remember to turn the machine OFF before getting into the wiring
# This picture shows the appropriate wire to unplug to turn off power to the Yaxis [[Media:Laser-RotaryWiring.jpg]]
# This picture shows where to connect the rotary tool on the amplifier (it's on the far right, and then plug in the two pronged connector)[[Media:Laser-RotaryWiringYaxis.jpg]]
# Now we need to adjust the software settings to produce images that are truly the correct proportion and not stretched in the Y axis direction. We expect that the computer system is turned on, software is already installed, and the LaserCut 5.3 is working correctly. Start LaserCut 5.3 with a fresh project. Select the "File" in the menu and then select "Machine-Options" .. or press Ctrl and J buttons together for the hotkey function. The "MachineOptions" window will turn on.
# Select the settings for the "Worktable" ... seen here in the picture as highlighted in blue.
# Notice the current value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] is 0.007943125. This is the default distance that each pulse command will move the laser machine. This value is used for the linear rails.
# Change the value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] to 0.01823829. This is the "approximate" value for the drive end of the rotary axis. This number might be different depending on the diameter of the O-rings in your rotary attachment.
# Save the changes to the "Machine Options" that we have just made. Simply press "OK" .. you should not need to insert a new password.
# Close the "Machine Options" window. *** Your are now ready to start a new project with the rotary axis. ** Here is an example of how I engraved my name around the top of the Maglight flashlight. Please notice that the flashlight has two obvious diameters. The diameter of the flashlight head at the drive wheels is larger than the body of the flashlight. We cannot turn the flashlight around because we can't get it to be level that way... We must use the flashlight with the bulb at the drive end of the rotary attachment. The problem is "How do we set up the rotary attachment for us to have finished pictures that aren't stretched?" It is pretty easy to do trial and error to get a "square picture", but let's do it with math. Measure the diameter of the drive end (D1) and diameter of the body (D2). Now use your calculator to find D2/D1 * 0.01823829 = (new YAxis Pulse value). Enter this number into the Machine Options table, save settings, .. and ready to engrave the new section of the flashlight. Please remember that you will need to put the original Y-Axis Pulse value back into the "Machine Options" section before you can use the laser machine in normal mode (without the rotary axis).

**Questions: **
Q) I did the installation, but all the graphics are backwards or upside-down. What to do to fix this?
A) Go the the electrical connector of the stepper motor. There should be four wires going into a green plastic connector. Turn the machine power off. Loosen the screws for the two wires at the end of the connector (B+ and B-), Switch the position of these two wires. Tighten the screws back down. Turn the machine power back on. The rotary attachment will now go the other direction when given a command to move.

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.
* If your laser engraving turns out to be in perfect circles instead of the full area, there is an option to put small circles in an engraved area, to fix this:
** Create your your engrave area/shape and select it
** Double click on the speed/power area to the top right
** Click on the ... to the right of Blow
** Take the circles out of Fill Circle & Engrave Circle

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Rabbit Laser

2016-04-22T00:58:13Z

Dblank: Laser filter info removed, RFID restriction notices added

{{Template:Equipment
|owner=LVL1
|serial=Serial Number
|model=Rabbit QX-80-1290
|arrived=8/23/2014
|doesitwork=Yes
|contact=
|where=Common Room
|picture=Rabbit_Laser.jpg
}}

= About =

* 80 Watt Laser
* 1200 mm x 900 mm cutting area (~4'x3')
* Currently configured with a Standard 55mm Focal Depth lens.
** This is a "Compromise" lens: Okay at cutting, okay at engraving, but great at neither.
** We have a "Premium" 55mm lens in stock also.

= Manual =

* https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4V_icNlfqiANnhWb3dfZm5iRHM/view?usp=sharing

= Restrictions =

This laser cutter is restricted to member-use only. It is only operable through RFID badge access, and names & times of members' usage will be kept in a log. This accountability is an effort to maintain responsible use of the laser--see "Laser Odor" below.
Remember: '''use you LVL1 key card to activate the laser for cutting AND lock out the laser when you are finished.''' ''Italic text'' Failure to swipe your card a second time can leave you logged into the system (which you will still be held responsible for).

= Laser Odor =

<pre style="color: red; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; font-size: 24pt">VERY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT LASER ODOR GUIDELINES</pre>

Laser fumes are normally vented through the window and out a shaft. Outdoors, the fumes do not bother residents.
If you start to smell odor, then the fumes are backing up into the space and ''will soon bother our neighbors.''

'''IF YOU NOTICE AN ODOR beginning to fill the space, IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE LASER USE.'''

Similarly, when you finish your project, wait a few moments before opening the laser cutter to allow the fumes to exit.

''Our landlords have made it clear that another odor complaint from our neighbors will result in permanent prohibition of the laser.''

=Important Laser Guidelines=

* Do not use the laser without being trained. Ask questions. If you have any doubts, refrain from lasering.
* If the laser is moved, it must be recalibrated. Laser calibration is a long and difficult process.
* Install the laser tube with the water outlet facing up.
* The laser is intentionally pulled a couple feet from the wall for access.
* The laser control software will not work without the USB dongle installed. This dongle is a $250 device.
* Do not set power higher than 85% or lower than 10%. Higher power simply saturates the power supply and results in no benefit. Lower power does not lase.
* If a fire begins, open the laser lid immediately. This interrupts power to the laser.

=Where to find information=

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ Rabbit Laser's Website]
* The manual located on top of the machine

=Acceptable File Formats=

* DXF (Autocad 2002 or 2004 format) (for vector cutting)
* PLT (for vector cutting)
* BMP (engraving only)
* JPG (engraving only)
* Others
* NOT SVG. SVG is NOT usable.

=How to use the Laser in Table mode=

# Check the laser bed for any obstructions (abandoned material, objects left by previous users such as magnets, etc) and remove them. Also, check the area of the print bed where you will be placing your material - if there are small bits of material left from previous cuts, your material will not sit level and will not cut or engrave cleanly!
# Power on the laser by turning the key on the front of the display panel. The water chiller (on the floor, lower right) should turn on with a red LCD displaying the water temperature, and you should be able to hear the fans and pump start up. If the chiller's green "normal" light does not come on, or if the red "alarm" light is lit, do not use the laser.
# Use your LVL1 Member Access Key to turn on the laser.
# Home the X and Y Axes by pressing the "X-Y 0" button. If the laser doesn't home by moving to the back-right corner, ensure that the machine is not in "Jog" mode. If any menu item is highlighted to the right, the machine is not in "Jog" mode. Hit "Esc" on the display several times until the LCD menu shows entires for "File/Speed/Power" then press "Esc" until no menu items are highlighted. Then attempt to home the X and Y axes again.
# Jog the Z Axis until your material will fit under the laser head by pressing the up and down arrows to raise or lower the print bed.
# Jog the home switch of the laser head over your material using the up/down/left/right arrows above the "X-Y 0" button. Ensure that the small limit switch/plunger to the left of the laser head is over the material to be lased; therwise, the depth for the laser focus point will not be correct, and the head or plunger could impact the material when the head assembly is moving during the lasing process.
# Home the Z Axis by pressing the "Z 0" button. The Z axis will automatically back off to the correct focus point. Verify that the plunger did contact the material to be lased!
# Open the "Laser Cut" software on the laser PC (snowflake icon).
# Import your project, or draw a test shape. (It is HIGHLY recommended that you test your cut settings on scrap material before attempting a real cut).
# In the upper right-hand corner, set the laser power and speed settings. Use the settings in the manual as a guideline.
# Click "Calculate" to generate G-Code.
# Click "Download" to send G-Code to the laser.
# On the "Download" menu, press, "Delete All," followed by "Download Current." This ensures that your project is the only one loaded on the laser.
# Jog the laser head to the upper-left corner of your intended cut area.
# Press "Esc" then "Anchor". The LCD should display "SET LOGIC ORG". Press "Enter" then "Esc".
# Press the "Test" button to see the area that will be cut by the laser. Ensure that your material is lined up correctly.
# Close the lid of the laser.
# Press "Start" to begin cutting. DO NOT LEAVE THE LASER UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
# When your laser operation is complete, PLEASE leave the lid of the cutter closed for a few minutes to extract as much of the smoke or fumes from the space as possible.
# When you remove your material, please take a moment and remove any small bits of excised material from the print bed - Try to leave the bed in better shape than you fouund it!
# When you are finished with the laser cut software, Don't forget to move your files to your member folder on the Z-drive of the file server or to your own USB key or SD card.
# Make sure to swipe your Member Key again after you are finished to log out!

=How to use the Laser in Rotary Mode=
*NOTE: This is advanced--do not attempt without training!**
Using the Roller-Type Rotary attachment... Our customer was very interested in purchasing our laser machine, and also interested in using the roller-style rotary attachment.
**Make sure the main door is up and safety switches will NOT allow the laser to fire. **
# Move the worktable down such that the attachment and materials will surely fit underneath the focal head assembly. When you put the rotary attachment down in the work area, be careful not to damage the honeycomb bed. Some customers put a plywood insert in place of the honeycomb bed. You can see in this picture that I used some corrugated plastic board to protect the honeycomb bed from getting dented by me as I adjust the roller attachment. The tail-stock end of the rotary attachment is a free-rolling support for the material to engrave onto.
# Adjust the tailstock end of the attachment so it is at the right distance from the head. This is to ensure the material fits securely on the roller attachment. The tailstock end is needed to help support the material and the front end of the roller attachment drives the motion. The front end of the material needs adequate weight to make sure the roller o-rings keep traction during the cutting motions. Extra*** It is very neat to engrave wine glasses, but they often do not have the weight needed to keep traction. I usually press "Silly Putty" into the wine glass to give it more weight and disperse the heat as not to shatter the thin glass.
# Look at how the rotary attachment sits under the Y Axis Rail. Align the rotary attachment to be in line with the rail. We need for the laser to hit in the "top-dead-center" of the material that you have on the rotary attachment.
# Now to make sure the laser will be in focus. Move the focal assembly to the right end of the material and bring the worktable up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up.
# Move the focal assembly to the tail-stock end of the material and adjust the rollers up to make a focused position. Be careful not to run the material too far up. The flashlight in this picture will have a long distance that could be engraved, but some materials may only present a short distance that could be in focus.. (example: short wine glasses) * This picture shows the knob for adjusting the height of the tail-stock end of the rotary attachment.
# Now that the rotary attachment is sitting in place, it needs to be connected to the machine. The motor connector and wires need to be routed through the square hole and taken to the motor amplifier. This picture shows the square hole from inside the laser work area. This picture shows the square hole from inside the electronics panel. *** Make sure the power is OFF before you remove the motor wires. Tie the wires off to the side. Place the wire connector (for the rotary attachment) onto the connector of the Y-Axis amplifier. Do not push too hard... It helps to slightly wiggle the connector as you push it on. After everything is reconnected, turn the power back on.***
#Please use the below pictures as a guide on how to unplug and plug in the wiring - remember to turn the machine OFF before getting into the wiring
# This picture shows the appropriate wire to unplug to turn off power to the Yaxis [[Media:Laser-RotaryWiring.jpg]]
# This picture shows where to connect the rotary tool on the amplifier (it's on the far right, and then plug in the two pronged connector)[[Media:Laser-RotaryWiringYaxis.jpg]]
# Now we need to adjust the software settings to produce images that are truly the correct proportion and not stretched in the Y axis direction. We expect that the computer system is turned on, software is already installed, and the LaserCut 5.3 is working correctly. Start LaserCut 5.3 with a fresh project. Select the "File" in the menu and then select "Machine-Options" .. or press Ctrl and J buttons together for the hotkey function. The "MachineOptions" window will turn on.
# Select the settings for the "Worktable" ... seen here in the picture as highlighted in blue.
# Notice the current value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] is 0.007943125. This is the default distance that each pulse command will move the laser machine. This value is used for the linear rails.
# Change the value for the Y-Axis [Pulse Unit] to 0.01823829. This is the "approximate" value for the drive end of the rotary axis. This number might be different depending on the diameter of the O-rings in your rotary attachment.
# Save the changes to the "Machine Options" that we have just made. Simply press "OK" .. you should not need to insert a new password.
# Close the "Machine Options" window. *** Your are now ready to start a new project with the rotary axis. ** Here is an example of how I engraved my name around the top of the Maglight flashlight. Please notice that the flashlight has two obvious diameters. The diameter of the flashlight head at the drive wheels is larger than the body of the flashlight. We cannot turn the flashlight around because we can't get it to be level that way... We must use the flashlight with the bulb at the drive end of the rotary attachment. The problem is "How do we set up the rotary attachment for us to have finished pictures that aren't stretched?" It is pretty easy to do trial and error to get a "square picture", but let's do it with math. Measure the diameter of the drive end (D1) and diameter of the body (D2). Now use your calculator to find D2/D1 * 0.01823829 = (new YAxis Pulse value). Enter this number into the Machine Options table, save settings, .. and ready to engrave the new section of the flashlight. Please remember that you will need to put the original Y-Axis Pulse value back into the "Machine Options" section before you can use the laser machine in normal mode (without the rotary axis).

**Questions: **
Q) I did the installation, but all the graphics are backwards or upside-down. What to do to fix this?
A) Go the the electrical connector of the stepper motor. There should be four wires going into a green plastic connector. Turn the machine power off. Loosen the screws for the two wires at the end of the connector (B+ and B-), Switch the position of these two wires. Tighten the screws back down. Turn the machine power back on. The rotary attachment will now go the other direction when given a command to move.

=Future DIY Upgrades=
* High pressure air assist using shop air
** Design instructions in manual
* Rotary Enlongening
** A custom aluminum bottom plate for the rotary would easily add length.

=Troubleshooting=
* If "Immediate" mode doesn't seem to work properly, try downloading the config again.
** From the "Download" menu, press the "Download Config" button. The laser will be unresponsive for a few moments. Wait until the menu responds to input before uploading your laser file.
* If your laser engraving turns out to be in perfect circles instead of the full area, there is an option to put small circles in an engraved area, to fix this:
** Create your your engrave area/shape and select it
** Double click on the speed/power area to the top right
** Click on the ... to the right of Blow
** Take the circles out of Fill Circle & Engrave Circle

= Maintenance Log =
* '''8/23/2014''' - Received Laser
* '''9/8/2014''' - Cleaned lens, inspected lens mirror.
* '''9/27/2014''' - Installed carbon filter, exterior venting.
* '''11/04/2014''' - Cleaned main lens. Not particularly dirty.
* '''2/06/2015''' - Changed carbon in the filter.
* '''3/21/2015''' - completely picked the bed clean of any excised material, emptied crumb tray

= Maintenance Schedule =
* Based on observation, this schedule is 3x the length of the "estimated" schedule recommended for full-time laser shops.
* '''Every three weeks''' - Clean the main lens.
* '''Every three months''' - Clean the lens mirror.
* '''Every six months''' - Clean the X-axis gantry mirror.
* '''Every nine months''' - Clean the Y-axis mirror.
* '''Every year''' - Clean the laser output lens/mirror assembly.
* '''As needed''' - Lubricate the linear slides with 3-in-1 oil (or similar light machine oil).
* '''As needed''' - Clean crumbs out of crumb tray and the bed (on top of the support rails where crumbs can't fall freely)
* '''As Needed''' - Replace coolant water (use distilled water only).

= Maintenance Tips =
* Add a couple of tablespoons of roundup to the coolant, and it won't need changed as often.

Manual

2016-04-12T01:17:56Z

Dblank: /* Finalizing your LVL1 membership with Front Desk */

= LVL1 Manual =

 
== Introduction ==

[[File:Lvl1_2011_big.png|right]]

Welcome to [[LVL1]]!

Our space might be a little overwhelming at first, so we've created this manual as a rough guide to help you get the most out of the community we've created.

We hope that this guide will help you better understand how [[LVL1]] is organized, answer common questions and provide direction on how to get the most out of the resources [[LVL1]] has to offer.

This manual is a guide to all members of our community; from first-time visitors to founding members. Feel free to edit and contribute information to this guide. [[LVL1]] is a dynamic space and we expect this guide to be as equally as dynamic.

If you have questions not addressed in this [[Manual]], please also check our [[FAQ]] or email info@lvl1.org.

 
== About LVL1 ==

[[File:Butterscotch.jpeg|left|400px]]

[[LVL1]] is an open community workshop democratically operated by our membership. We are friendly community of tinkerers, makers, engineers, educators, scientists, artists, hackers and overall geeks. Anyone who is, aspires to be, or just wants to hang around smart, creative, friendly mad scientist maker/hacker Louisvillians is welcome at [[LVL1]]! We've got lots of cool tools and equipment. We've got a lot of really bright and creative people. We like to work on (and show off) fun and challenging technical projects.

 
== LVL1 Culture ==

[[File:Mario_and_doctor.jpeg|right|300px]]

[[LVL1]] strives to promote an open and welcoming culture. We like the fact that we're a public resource for the community. To keep this kind of openness in our community, it takes a little more effort in a social sense to keep things running smoothly. Being part of an open community can be a challenge sometimes. Try to display a little extra politeness, a little extra patience, a little extra cleanliness and a little extra friendliness.

Our primary policy is to "Be Excellent to Each Other." If you're not being excellent to your other members, expect to get called out for it. If you don't know whether or not something you're doing is excellent, odds are, it isn't.

 

== Organization ==

LVL1 is a non-profit 501c(3) organization. We collect dues from our membership to pay rent, utilities, insurance and maintenance of the space. Any funds left over are used for tools and consumables for LVL1.

LVL1 has a 7 member Board of Directors elected by membership. This includes four elected officers and three at-large directors. The Board of Directors fulfill the roles required by Kentucky law and oversee the operation of LVL1. All of the directors are volunteers and are not compensated financially. The directors can be contacted by emailing directors@lvl1.org.

 

== Regular Events ==

LVL1 has an Open Meeting & Making every Tuesday at 8pm. This is best time to come by the space to find out what's happening and meet our community.

We keep a calendar of other upcoming meetings and events at http://lvl1.org.

 
== Health & Safety ==

Safety is the responsibility of each and every person at LVL1. You are especially responsible for your own safety, but if you see others being unsafe, tell them!

Everyone walking through the door must sign a [[Waiver]] of Liability. This waiver absolves LVL1 of responsibility should anyone damage themselves at the hackerspace. All guests you bring in MUST sign this waiver, regardless of how long they intend to stay, or whether or not they intend to use any tools. Anyone refusing to sign a waiver will be asked to leave.

It should go without saying, but if you don't know how to use a tool, don't use it! If you want to learn how to use a tool, ask around, and wait for someone to teach you! If you're alone in the Hackerspace, it is advisable to refrain from using dangerous tools.

First aid kits are located in the wood shop, next to the light switch (on the shelf with all the safety goggles). There are additional first aid kits above the refrigerator in the main work area. Fire extinguishers are littered throughout the space. Make yourself aware of the location of fire extinguishers, they should all be in plain sight.

There are three breaker boxes in the hackerspace. Above the Microwave in the main work area is a 50 amp subpanel connected to all the lights and outlets in the main work area. There is a 100 amp subpanel in the woodshop, connected to all tools and lights in the basement. The big room contains the 200 amp main panel, with breakers for the lights and outlets in the big room and upstairs.

 

== Children ==

LVL1 is a dynamic space with potential hazards requiring a mature attitude towards safety. Due to the nature of this environment (and the extra precaution required) unattended minors under the age of 18 are prohibited from LVL1, except when accompanied by a legal guardian.

When accompanied by a legal guardian, minors must have a [[Waiver]] filled out by that guardian.

Although LVL1 allows accompanied minors, keep in mind that we do not make any effort to maintain a kid-friendly environment.

 

== Consumables ==

For most activities, you should plan to bring your own consumables. LVL1 has an ample supply of basic needs, but anything large or specialized will not likely be found at the space.

There is a shelf in the boneyard containing free resistors, capacitors, LEDs, and some semiconductors. Items such as tape, glue, zip-ties, soldering equipment (i.e. flux, solder), hot-glue, and wiggle-eyes are also free, but are scattered throughout the space due to them move. If any parts run out, let us know by emailing Broken@lvl1.org. Wire is located on the bottom right of the soldering workstation, and is also free.

As of 9/14/2008, Filament for the Makerbot costs $0.10 a gram. There is a scale next to the MakerBots to weigh your prints. You must pay for your plastic, even if your part is a disastrous failure! This fee helps pay for maintenance and plastic.

The laser cutter is free for non-commercial purposes, and $1 per minute for commercial purposes. More details can be found on the page for the [[Full Spectrum Laser]]. Scrap material for the laser is located underneath the table.

Scrap wood and metal are located in the bunker.

Items in the boneyard are also free.

There is a parts store located in the Tom's vending machine. Eventually this will be a web-connected store.

Snacks and drinks are located in the fridge, and behind the counter near member storage. Prices are marked, and based on the honor system.

 

== Donations ==

LVL1 is a [[501c3]] non-profit, and will accept your donations of equipment or money. We accept all electronic and electromechanical equipment, except CRT monitors, or items containing CRT monitors. Donations should be made to LVL1 Inc. For more details on the rules of donations, see the [[501c3]] page. If you have any questions, contact directors@lvl1.org

 

== Tools ==

For a list of the Tools at lvl1, See http://wiki.lvl1.org/Equipment

 

== Storage ==

You're only allowed to store items at the space on a semi-permanent basis if you're a member. Non-members, please take your stuff home at the end of the day!

Please be conscious of our limited space, and only store items that you will use.

 
== The Space ==

LVL1 consists of about 8,800 square feet of work area. The space is divided into the main work area, the bunker, which houses the wood shop and metal shop, the classroom, and the member storage/boneyard spaces.

=== Main Work Area ===

Most of the action at LVL1 takes place here, including most meetings and general work activity. This area contains work stations for 3D printing (the makerbots), laser and vinyl cutting, soldering, sewing, Raspberry Pis, and most hand tools, as well as a smart-board style interactive projector.

=== Kitchen ===

The kitchen currently is not yet a fully established space. A Refrigerator, some cooking utensils, and other supplies are found in the south of the main work area. (The microwave is in a questionably working situation at this juncture.) Feel free to use these implements to make delicious food!

=== Bathrooms ===

Bathrooms are located just outside of lvl1's space. From the door that leads into the rest of The Pointe that is in the Main Work Area, they are just to the left.

=== Classroom ===

The classroom has tables, a projector matching the one in the main room, and a library. The library includes a broad selection of technical books. This is not yet a lending library, although we're working on that. Feel free to use any texts while at the space.

=== The Bunker ===

The bunker is in the south of the space, and is a separate space containing the wood and metal shops:

=== Wood Shop ===

The wood shop contains many woodworking tools, including two CNC machines.

=== Metal Shop ===

The metal shop includes a mill, a lathe, pipe bending equipment, and sheet metal equipment.

=== The Boneyard ===

In the back (north) of the space, the Boneyard rests behind member storage shelves. Pieces that are available for hacking live in the boneyard. As we unpack from our move, asking a member or two to be sure that an item you would like to hack isn't an important not-for-hacking part hasn't accudentally ended up in the boneyard.

 

=== Parking ===

Parking for the space is available in both of The Pointe's parking lots, and on the street nearby. The Pointe's main parking lot, which is on the corner of East Washington and Cabel streets, is clearly visible from the street, but the other, smaller (but closer to the door) parking lot is hidden behind the flood wall off Cabel street.

 

== Guests ==

LVL1 is an open access hackerspace. Any time a member is present at the space, guests are welcome to drop by, work on projects, use the resources of the space, or just hang out. All guests must sign a [[Waiver]]. Any guests under 18 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. When all members leave, all guests must also leave. It is the responsibility of the last person to leave to ensure that the space is empty, and the door is locked.

 

== Nearby Resources ==

[http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=217369385395577844598.00048bac33ccfb6a6ec16&msa=0 Map of Louisville Hacker Resources]

 
== Workshops ==

=== Attending a Workshop ===

=== Hosting a Workshop ===

Workshops are a great way to spread awareness and grow LVL1 in knowledge, expertise and memberships. They're also a great way to show off and share what you know. Hosting a workshop at LVL1 is very easy.

# Think of a workshop idea. Do you have any knowledge you'd like to spread? If you'd like, do an interest-check at a Tuesday meeting, or on the mailing list.
# Figure out how many attendees you'd be willing to teach (recruit help if necessary!)
# Figure out how much the workshop will cost. For hardware workshops, this might be quite a bit. For software workshops, this might be nothing at all! You're more likely to get committed folks if you put a nominal price on the workshop ($5-$10), but don't feel like you have to. If you'd like, add some money on top of the workshop to benefit LVL1.
# Pick a date Any arbitrary date will do. Find one that isn't taken on the calendar.
# Create promotional material for the event (a description, requirements, prerequisites, some graphics)
# Email the board of directors to set up an EventBrite event. Eventbrite handles payments and ticketing. If you're hosting a free or low cost workshop, you can skip this and accept payment at the door.
# Email the list to announce the workshop
# Make a blog post to announce the workshop
# Email the board of directors to purchase supplies
# Come to LVL1 and teach the workshop!

'''Guide to LVL1 culture'''
*Fun is the prime directive. Keep things fun.
**All people like to be around things that are fun.
**All people tend to avoid things and events that are not fun.
**Therefore the best way to keep attendance and occupancy up is to keep things fun.
*Fair Warning: Using the collective 'we' can quickly get you deputized.
**This is meant to be a playful way of avoiding 'diffusion of responsibility'. Sometimes when people say "We should _________!", what they really mean is "Someone besides myself should _________!"
**Being deputized doesn't mean you have to do it yourself. But, it does mean you should lead the charge, find people to help you, and cajole them as necessary (free beer or home-baked cookies) to make it happen.
*When scheduling something; pick an arbitrary date to start negotiations, thereby avoiding arbitrary non-starting negotiations.
**Sometimes the hardest part of organizing is finding the 'best' time to do it.
**There is never a 'best time' that works for everyone.
**Once a date is set, everything else quickly falls into place.
*The less rules the better. Don't try to solve problems we don't have.
**We rely on a culture of openness, friendliness and mutual respect.
**If you have a conflict with some aspect of the space or a member, we expect you to try and resolve it with the member on a personal level first. If that is not achievable, then find a Director to help mediate the conflict. Rule-making is a last resort approach for conflict resolution.
*Be excellent to each other.

== Membership ==
* You don't need to be a LVL1 member to hang out with us at meetings and events! All are welcome to come and geek out with us. There's a common misperception that you should be a member before coming to these meetings. This is not true! At least 50% of these meeting attendees are not dues paying members and all of them are welcome. Most of those non-members have no intention of becoming dues paying members. That's fine! There's no pressure to become an official member! Official membership has some awesome benefits and we'd love to have you, but it's cool if you just want to hang out and geek out.

== Becoming a LVL1 member ==
*Membership is $50 a month through an automatic paypal
*Membership gives you the following rights:
**Voting Rights (direction and conflict resolution)
**24x7 access to space, you get a key
**Access to all equipment owned, donated or loaned to LVL1
**Ability to sponsor new members
* Membership currently has the following requirements:
** Convince 3 existing members to sponsor you.
** Have two officers verify a photo ID.

Please read the [[Bylaws]] before becoming a member, so you have an understanding of how we operate procedurally.

== Finalizing your LVL1 membership with Front Desk ==
Once you have completed your membership form, you can finish your account using Front Desk, our membership management software.
Follow the steps below:
*Go to LVL1's Front Desk page at http://lvl1.frontdeskhq.com
*Select "Sign Up" at the top right hand corner of the screen [[File:LVL1_Guide_1.png]]
*Enter the email address you would like to use for your LVL1 account [[File:LVL1_Guide_2.png]]
*For adults, do not select dependent
**For dependents and children, select dependent
*Enter your personal information
*Create a password for your LVL1 account
*Once you click sign up your account has been created and you will be brought to your personal dashboard
*From here a LVL1 officer or LVL1 Front Desk administrator must send you a request for a membership plan
**When you receive the invitation, a banner will appear at the top of your dashboard
**Click on the banner to accept the new plan
**Enter your credit card or other payment information
**Click "Finish"
**You will now see a screen detailing your payment information
*Now, have a LVL1 officer get your information to issue you an RFID badge for the door
*Once your badge has been tested and your information has been verified, you're in!

== Completing the electronic waiver ==

*Click on Signature Request for Waiver after you login
*The screen will refresh and ask you to Complete the waiver, click on this link for the DocuSign.
*At the top left click to agree to the DocuSign terms of service
*Scroll to the bottom and click on ‘Sign'
*You’ll have the option to have the auto signature or style or even ‘Draw’ one
*Click Adopt And Sign
*Click Finish at the bottom of the screen
*You will be redirected to the LVL1 FrontDesk site

(Midwest Regional) Stupid Shit No-One Needs and Terrible Ideas Hackathon

2015-10-10T19:16:38Z

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[[File:stupidshithackathon2015.png]]

== Details ==

'''October 10-11 (starting noon on Saturday and ending 3pm on Sunday).'''

'''Completely FREE to attend!''' (although donations are always welcome, especially to the hard-working troublemakers we are)

== '''CURRENT LIST OF SPECIAL AWARDS''' ==

''"The Disappointment Machine"'' -- For The Worst (Best?) Failed 3D Print Attempt -- Prize: EXCLUSIVE, unique, 3D Print Failure Art

''"Accidentally Useful"'' -- For the creation that solves an ACTUAL problem, completely unintentionally. -- Prize: Project will be lovingly left as a foundling on the doorstep of FirstBuild, where it can, perhaps, be taken seriously one day... Or immediately destroyed.

''"I'm Not Even Mad"'' -- For the project that makes you stand in awe of its awesomeness and/or sheer stupidity of it. That makes you say "that is awesome and I hate you for it." And for that, you deserve "The Stupid Shit Cinder Block of Awesomeness" (courtesy of HackPGH) -- Prize: The Stupid Shit Cinder Block of Awesomeness....kit with instructions. Deal with it, smartass. (Prize Provided by Hack Pittsburgh)

''"It's Cool, He Signed a Waiver"'' -- For the project that is most likely to cause injury of some kind. The kind that makes "News of the Weird." -- Prize: Some band-aids and ibuprofen. Godspeed.

''"Awkward Moments"'' -- Trying to avoid eye contact with that one team because of their project? Yeah, this is for them. -- Prize: Your project on the front page of our Facebook page (until someone changes it).

WE intend this to be BIG! In an era where hackathons are being held by corporations and entrepreneurs to jumpstart professional innovation, it's time to show them why we hack: for the lulz, friends. All about the lulz.

So let's show others how to dick around.
Find a problem...that no one has (this is integral).
Then hack an awesome solution.

'''CAN'T ATTEND!??''' Sponsor a special award!

'''Don't have a nonproblem??''' We will give you one! We have a mix of ideas that you can draw from a hat!

The first Stupid Hackathons were held on the east & west coasts, so check out their winning entries for inspiration:

http://www.stupidhackathon.com/
https://stupidhackathon.github.io/

'''HOW YOU CAN HELP:'''

- Spread the word, for God's sake! Let's draw in people outside our little city!

- But don't take this crap too seriously, people.

- Are you a graphic designer? I dare you to design some ridiculous marketing!

- Sponsors and partner organizations? All welcome, but all incentives/awards should be appropriately farcical.

'''See you all there!'''

(Midwest Regional) Stupid Shit No-One Needs and Terrible Ideas Hackathon

2015-10-05T16:57:04Z

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ConMen

2015-02-15T18:55:07Z

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This page is the dedicated home to the ConMen.

The Conference Men/Women (ConMen for short) are a group of volunteers who give their time planning and attending conferences on LVL1's behalf.

Click here to follow the [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lvl1-conmen ConMen ]

If you have any suggestions, they can be added [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/lvl1-conmen/Fi8N4p8V-wg here]

If you are interested in helping out you can leave a message in the group, or Danielle or Justin at any LVL1 Tuesday meeting.

'''Want to represent LVL1 at upcoming events? Sign up here!'''
[http://vols.pt/ANYgca ConMen Volunteer Spot]